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FOOD AND FREEDOM. 




THE MAID OF ORLEANS — AN ANCIENT AND A MODERN 

IDEAL 

From the clay model by Anna Vaughan Hyatt, before the 
statue was cast in bronze and erected on Riverside Drive 



FOOD AND 
FREEDOM 

A Household Book 

BY 
MABEL DULON PURDY 

Graduate of Teachers College, Columbia University 
and the Philadelphia Cooking School 

Household Editor, McClure Publications 

ILLUSTRATED 



ENDORSED BY 

THE U. S. FOOD ADMINISTRATION 




HARPER y BROTHERS PUBLISHERS 

NEW YORK AND LONDON 



-9^ 



MAY 27 1918 



Food and Freedom 



Copyright, 191 8, by Harper & Brothers 

Printed in the United States of America 

Published May, 1918 

E-S 

©CI.A499178 



To 

All Women 

who have already given help 

and 

All Women 

who may still need help 

This Book 

is thankfully and hopefully 

dedicated b}^ the Author 



CONTENTS 

CHAP. PAGE 

Preface xi 

Introduction xiii 

I. Our Emergency i 

II. What You Can Do 8 

III. What We Should Know 20 

IV. The World on a Diet 34 

V. Important Food Facts 52 

VI. Planning the Meals 74 

VII. Cooking the Meals no 

VIII. Serving the Meals 127 

IX Your Recipes 137 

X. Preserving and Storing Food . . . . 190 

XI. A Kitchen that Will Help You . . . 210 

XII. Just Thoughts 2^,8 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

The Maid of Orleans — an Ancient and a 

Modern Ideal Frontispiece 

Picnics Save Work and Give Pleasure .Facing p. 132 
Jams and Marmalades Prevent Fruit 

Waste *' 204 

A Home-made Drying Outfit that Is Prac- 
tical AND Inexpensive " 206 

The Dining Alcove ........ 213 

The New "Flush" or ''Sanitary" Door . 217 

Cross-section of Dresser Showing Lower 

Shelves 219 

A Kitchen Floor Plan 221 

Window Over the Kitchen Sink . . . 227 

Side Wall of the Kitchen 231 

Let Us Make of Our Homes a Place 
where the Fairies Shall Love to 
Come and Dance among the Pitchers 
and the Tea-pots 236 





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PREFACE 

U. S. Food Administration, 

Washington, D. C. 

HE women of the country have ac- 
cepted the burden that the Food Ad- 
ministration and the President himself 
have thrust upon them. They have 
assumed responsibility for the saving of food, 
for its right use, for its proper preparation. They 
realize that the situation has become critical; 
that there is not enough food in Europe; that 
the soldiers of the Allies must be maintained in 
full strength, and their wives and children at 
home must not face famine; that the friendly 
neutrals must not be starved; and that our own 
army in France must never lack a needed ounce 
of food. They are willing to do their utmost; 
but to do means not only resolution, it means 
knowledge. 

Such books as Food and Freedom are invalu- 
able in helping the housekeeper understand just 
what she ought to do, in pointing out to her the 
way, and in putting her in touch with the sources 
of scientific information that will aid her in her 



PREFACE 

task of changing the food habits of a nation. 
She must be trained to meet new needs and new 
conditions in order to do her share in this great 
upheaval. ' ' Twentieth-century ideals ' ' and ' * mod- 
ern possibilities'* are no less important in en- 
abling her to face the hard facts of to-day than 
are the older-fashioned household achievements. 
This book will help her to organize her duties 
and to bring freedom into work that has often 
been a symbol of bondage. 

United States Food Administration. 

March 7, igi8. 




INTRODUCTION 

[N spite of its cruelty, largely because 
of that, the Great War has taught us 
many useftil lessons. Perhaps the 
greatest of these is the importance of 
food education and the general need of food knowl- 
edge in the homes of America. Since 19 14 these 
homes have received a great jolt and an awaken- 
ing; instead of the former common, indifferent 
ignorance on all matters dealing with food and 
diet, we now find the new why and how of scien- 
tific feeding rapidly becoming a vital factor in 
the daily calculations of all who are trying to 
wrest the best kind of a living from their par- 
ticular world. 

The purpose of this book is to present, in com- 
pact form, to the housekeeper who may need the 
special, organized food and household knowledge 
now demanded of her as a patriotic duty such 
simple, prime facts as can give her immediate 
assistance with definite, practical results. At the 
same time it is also the purpose of the book, 
through the credit notes and references pains- 



INTRODUCTION 

takingly assembled, to serve as a guide in acquir- 
ing further detailed knowledge from that great 
wealth of material to be found in the perfect food 
and home-making literature already published. 
There is no ambition represented in the pages that 
follow other than the one hope of possibly making 
housekeeping as a whole, with emphasis on wise 
family feeding, easier and happier for a few 
women, with better national results, at a time 
when the giving of any help in this line is also a 
patriotic duty. 

The material covered includes those important 
facts in the science of nutrition a clear under- 
standing of which is now required as a necessary 
background for proper feeding in normal, every- 
day living, followed by practical suggestions for 
planning, cooking, and serving meals in the sim- 
plest, happiest way, and supplemented by a chapter 
of selected and tested recipes. The changed con- 
ditions of living naturally brought about by prog- 
ress, with new ideals, new needs, new responsibili- 
ties, new benefits — all emphasized by the Great 
War — are touched on, and a special appeal made 
for household system, thrift, and food conservation 
as a basis of national strength and prosperity. This 
material is built up on years of scientific study, 
teaching, and practical experience, including par- 
ticular research work in the recent advances 
made in scientific feeding and organized living. 



INTRODUCTION 

It has all, moreover, been carefully checked with 
the latest scientific conclusions of those accepted 
authorities in the food and household world whose 
records have earned for them the right to really 
know. 

The author acknowledges with gratitude and 
full credit the help and inspiration received from 
those who have already written on similar sub- 
jects, from the work of the United States Food 
Administration and the Department of Agricult- 
ure, and from the very practical support of the edi- 
torial staff of the McClure Publications. The care- 
ful reading of the manuscript by Miss Gertrude 
B. Lane, the valuable criticisms given by Dr. 
Carl L. Alsberg, chief of the Bureau of Chemistry, 
of the United States Department of Agriculture, 
in connection with the chapters on nutrition, and 
the interested artistic assistance of Mr. Herbert 
Baer, in connection with the planning and draw- 
ing of details for a helpful and attractive kitchen, 
are specially acknowledged and appreciated. 



FOOD AND FREEDOM 



JOAN OF ARC NEVER DIES 

''While it was France whom she served, her in- 
fluence and lessons are not limited to France. 
Though she is separated from us by five centuries, 
and distant some Jour thousand miles across the 
sea, though entirely isolated in experience, it is 
fitting that America has erected a statue in her 
honor.'' If this is so, is it not still more fitting 
that at this critical time in our history, as well as in 
the years of reconstruction that must surely follow, 
she serve as an exponent of what faith and will can 
accomplishf What one frail woman did because 
she ''believed'' others can do also — it matters not 
what the purpose or ultimate aim may be. Jeanne 
d'Arc fought for her country and the homes of 
France; we are fighting for our country and the 
homes of America — not only to save them at this 
moment, but to save them for the bigger, happier 
civilisation that must come! 



FOOD AND FREEDOM 



OUR EMERGENCY 

Every housewife who practises strict economy puts 
herself in the ranks of those who serve the nation. This 
is the time for America to correct her unpardonable fault 
of wastefulness and extravagance. Let every man and 
every woman assume the duty of careful, provident use 
and expenditure as a public duty, as a dictate of patriotism 
which no one can now expect ever to be excused or forgiven 
for ignoring. — President Wilson. 

|0T only because of the ravages of war, 
but through many ironies of fate, the 
world is short of food — really facing 
food exhaustion. Those who have 
followed the history of the Great War know that 
some satisfactory solution of the world's food and 
feeding problem, in its three great, entangled 
phases — production, control, conservation — is the 
trembling issue on which all the hopes of liberty 




2 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

and extended democracy for the world now rests. 
It is only the combined force of every individual 
will in an unromantic army of food producers, 
controllers, and conservers that can mend our 
broken world and hopefully restore it to a higher 
plane of civilized order than it ever held before, 
for — and with apologies to the great Russian 
banker — food, that is the future of freedom and 
peace ! 

Previous to the outbreak of the Great War, food 
thrift," recognized as a national asset, had been 
more or less consistently practised in Europe, 
particularly, perhaps, in Germany, France, and 
Italy. Intensive production and elimination of 
household food waste had been reduced to a 
science and almost raised to a fetish. In spite of 
this fact, however, the master importance of food, 
in the event of war, was not completely realized — 
even by otherwise thoroughly prepared Germany. 
Man-power, arms, strategy, and gold have always 
been the factors emphasized and counting in the 
history of past wars. No sooner had the titanic 
storm broken in the summer of 19 14, however, 
when the quick and full realization that food 
plenty or lacking would win or lose the war 
came home to the fighting nations like a knife- 
thrust, and the accommodating storehouse 
doors of America were well-nigh battered 
down. And then Arn^rica, too, perhaps for tilQ 



OUR EMERGENCY 3 

first time in many years of a spendthrift existence 
began to think. 

Although the United States produces more food 
than any other country in the world,^ for a period 
covering, approximately, twenty years preceding 
the outbreak of the war food production in the 
United States did not entirely keep up with the 
increase in population; in the more important 
staple products — ^wheat, meats, milk, and allied 
foods — statistics prove a definite decline.^ At 
the same time the United States has always been 
looked upon as an ever reliable source of food for 
many of the nations of Europe. England, 
France, Holland, Belgium, Italy, Germany had 
been in the habit of coming to us for food which 
they needed in excess of that which they were 
able to produce in their more limited territory. 
This demand was made largely against grain 
foods, fats, meat, and, to an extent, sugar. 

For a corresponding period, due to the normal 
shifting and evolution of economic conditions — 
which are all growing-pains, as it were, of progress 
and development — there was a definite and seri- 
ous rise in the United States in the price of all 
foodstuffs, and making the ends of the household 
food budget meet has been an increasingly dif- 

^ See Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Frohlem, chap, i, 
p. 9. 

2 Cf. Report from United States Department of Agricult- 
ure, December, 1916, 



4 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

fioilt task for the American housekeeper. To 
complicate conditions further, we have been con- 
tent to go our way commonly without knowledge 
on the entire question of food materials, nutritive 
values, economical living, marketing. We have 
even been charged, and to an extent rightly, with 
a very general national lack of thrift, with over- 
consumption, with shameful waste and extrava- 
gant tastes in our methods of living.^ 

With the exception of the United States, the 
present food shortage is almost universal, to some 
extent, and in the staple products — grains, meat, 
dairy products, fats, sugar — at least. In the 
countries which have been passing through the 
cruelest realities of the war the food-supply is 
particularly low. Even our own fortunate sur- 
plus is not over-bountiful. To control, order, and 
fairly divide that which our vaster acreage can be 
made to produce with those who have less and 
need help, and to do this without sacrificing the 
health or definite daily needs of our own people, 
or entirely destroying the normal balance of food 
conditions in our own country, is our big problem 
at the moment. 

In other words, America must to-day not only 
feed her own people, but she must feed to a very 
appreciable extent the peoples of Europe, and 

^ C/. Reports from United States Department of Agri- 
culture for the year 191 7.. 



OUR EMERGENCY 5 

this must now be done not under the care-free 
conditions that prevailed before the war, but in the 
face of many disadvantages and with the closest 
kind of calculation. With a food-supply scarcely 
keeping pace with our growing population, we 
must give more than we ever gave when the years 
were full. Out of our own none too generous 
store, already sorely depleted by over-exportation, 
with little help from distant points, we must pay 
the tax and toll of war on the world's supply of 
food. And how shall this be done? The pos- 
sible solution lies, as we know if we have learned 
our lesson, in increased and more stabilized pro- 
duction of food in the country as a whole, in the 
wise regulation and control of that food produced, 
and in the most intelligent use and conservation 
of every bit of food available. 

Onto the shoulders of the American farmer and 
the American housekeeper has the weight of the 
burden of this enormous duty of ours been thrust. 
The farmer must produce the needed increase in 
the food-supply, he must get the best and the most 
out of every acre of soil he tills; the housekeeper 
is the final partitioner of the food available; she 
must get the best and the most — both for our own 
people and those dependent on us — out of that 
food which is produced. She must make it go 
just as far as she possibly can, with the very best 
results in individual and national health and food 



6 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

satisfaction. The situation finds the farmer, 
both in technical knowledge and organized effort, 
and with the many practical mechanical devices 
now manufactured for improving agriculture, more 
or less prepared. But the housekeeper's task is 
not so simple. Before she can get the best or the 
most out of the food which the farmer can give 
her, she has yet to learn not only how to get it and 
how to stretch it, but, first of all, what the best 
and the most may be. 

Unfortunately, of what we have been accused 
is in many respects too true — the people of Amer- 
ica are commonly without scientific and practical 
knowledge on the entire question of food and wise 
and economical family feeding, while 30 per cent., 
it has been estimated, are guilty of extravagant 
living and the use of more food than is normally 
necessary. ** The food waste in the household, the 
experts assert, results in large measure from bad 
preparation and bad cooking, from improper care 
and handling, and in well-to-do families from 
serving an undue nimiber of courses and an over- 
abundant supply, and failing to save and utilize 
the food not consumed. As an instance of im- 
proper handling, it is discovered that in the 
preparation of potatoes 20 per cent, of the edible 
portion in many cases is discarded." ^ 

^ Report of the Secretary, United States Department of 
Agriculture, March, 19 17, 



OUR EMERGENCY 7 

Lack of food knowledge, combined with lack of 
organization and food thrift in the home, and its 
attendant waste, and the effect of this on the 
homes of America, our country as a whole, and 
the complex relationship now existing between 
our own food problem and the food problem of the 
world — this is in reality our biggest emergency. 
It must be faced with an open mind, with clear 
thinking and definite action. It can only be rem- 
edied by the will to remedy it, and the raethod is 
the wisest kind of food administration in its biggest 
and broadest sense, based on the soundest kind of 
food and home-making knowledge and its practice. 
If, as Herbert Hoover has told us, the ultimate 
success of food administration really rests upon 
the ''intelligent management of the American 
housewives in our twenty-two million homes," and 
that, after all, ''only the guiding hand of woman 
can control," the position that the American 
woman now holds in the life of the world, the free- 
dom and strength of our own country, and the 
happiness and efficiency of the American home 
is, indeed, a strategic one. 




II 



WHAT YOU CAN DO 

You are a great army drafted by conscience into what 
is now the most urgent activity — that of increasing and 
conserving the food-supply. — Herbert Hoover. 

HEN the fighting nations of Europe 
felt the actual possibilities of famine, 
when they realized that the food-sup- 
ply was decreasing as their food needs 
increased, they immediately turned their atten- 
tion to some effective form of food control — 
involving increased production, fair division, and 
practical diet regulations. In Italy, France, and 
England — although decided central measures in 
connection with the certain staple foods and the 
fixing of prices developed as conditions grew more 
serious — the cry for help through government 
food control came from the people, and the real 
strength of the measures adopted lay in the 
''voluntary co-operation of the households." In 
relentless Germany, almost entirely cut off from 
any outside food help, government food-control 



WHAT YOU CAN DO 9 

was forced on the people and household co-opera- 
tion required by law." ^ *' Russia, with perhaps 
the greatest possibilities of food production in 
Europe, did nothing at all, and out of Russia's 
food situation grew her revolution." ^ 

When America's crisis came, in April, 191 7, 
the United States had the mistakes and successes 
of Europe to profit by, and the opportunity to 
fully realize that a sane and effective system of 
food control and national strength went hand in 
hand. On June 10, 19 17, two months after war 
had been declared, a food-control bill was intro- 
duced, and Herbert Hoover — with the help of 
an enthusiastic body of volunteer workers — be- 
came, although unofficially at first, our food ad- 
viser and protector. Just two months later the 
food bill was passed, and Mr. Hoover was then 
officially appointed as our Food Administrator, 
and through him a Food Administration Board 
established. 

The story of Mr. Hoover, his remarkable ability 
for organization, combined with a rare and gen- 
erous sympathy and an almost superhuman 
faculty for concentration, is well known to the 
world to-day. As a food administrator, Herbert 
Hoover won his spurs in innocent, war-startled 

^ Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem^ chaps, ii, iii, 
iv. 

^"What Food Control Really Means," special paper, 
United States Food Administration. 



lo FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Belgium, where through his genius alone millions 
of destitute, starving men, women, children, babies, 
were fed and clothed and soothed and encouraged. 
For almost three years Hoover stood his ground 
— facing kings and diplomats, human charity 
and tyrants, and getting the help he needed — 
when our own America was threatened. President 
Wilson called Mr. Hoover home. He came, he 
grasped our condition, our infinite possibilities, 
our power for good if our wealth, particularly that 
of food, could be controlled, ordered, and fairly 
divided. And then he set to work. 

As a result, the best minds and hearts in Amer- 
ica are now striving to master the food problem 
and the food responsibilities of our country, not 
only for the present, but with thought for the 
future as well. Every phase of the food problem 
is represented, from increased, improved, and 
more stabilized production, through packing, ship- 
ping, storing, marketing, preservation for future 
needs, down to the final use of food in the home 
and in public eating-places; nor is the education 
of the public in food conditions, food needs, and 
food possibilities overlooked. 

The United States Food Administration stands 
for the food welfare of the United States and 
those dependent on us. The hopes of our 
Food Administration when established were 
threefold: 



WHAT YOU CAN DO n 

First, to so guide the trade in the fundamental 
food commodities as to eliminate vicious specu- 
lation, extortion, and wasteful practices, and to 
stabilize prices in the essential staples; second, 
to guard our trade exports so that against the 
world's shortage we retain sufficient supplies 
for our own people, and to co-operate with the 
Allies to prevent inflation of prices; and, third, 
that we stimulate in every manner within our 
power the saving of our food in order that we 
may increase exports to our Allies to a point 
which will enable them to properly provision 
their armies, and to feed their people during the 
coming winter. The Food Administration is 
called into being to stabilize and not to disturb 
conditions, and to defend honest enterprise 
against illegitimate competition. It has been 
devised to correct the abnormalities and abuses 
that have crept into trade by reason of the world 
disturbance, and to restore business as far as 
may be to a reasonable basis. ^ 

When organized, the Food Administration Office 
was *' specifically charged with the duties of carry- 
ing out the mandates of Congress in regulating 
supplies and managing a national campaign of 
food-saving." ^ Covering the three great activi- 
ties — Production, Controly and Conservation — its 
business includes four divisions: Control of ex- 
ports; trade regulations to the exclusion of both 

^ From a statement to President Wilson made by Herbert 
Hoover, after his appointment on August lo, 1917. 

2 "Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," Bulletin, United 
States Food Administration. 



12 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

legitimate or illegitimate speculations ; the estab- 
lishment of state administration boards to co- 
operate with the central board; the mobilization 
of men and women all over the country to carry 
out the directions for food conservation.^ 

The Food Law authorizes a governmental con- 
trol over the supply, distribution, and movement 
of all food, feeds, and fuel, and all machinery, 
implements, and equipment required for their 
actual production. Any agency necessary to 
carry out their control may be created; any 
existing department of the government may be 
used. All destruction of food and fuel for the 
purpose of enhancing prices is prohibited; all 
wilful waste, all hoarding, all monopolization, 
all discrimination and unfair practices, all un- 
just charges in handUng and dealing in food and 
fuel, and all combining to restrict production 
supply, or distribution are made unlawful. ^ 

Although the Food Law authorizes very far- 
reaching powers, the Food Administration be- 
lieves that "co-operation is better than law in 
making the countless complex changes in industry 
and trade necessary for orderly food control." ^ 
Quoting from Mr. Hoover again, our food prob- 
lem is not considered from the viewpoint of force 

* " Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," Bulletin, United 
States Food Administration. 

2 The Food Prohlem, Kellogg and Taylor, p. 2 1 . 

3 "The World on Rations," Special Paper, United States 
Food Administration. 



WHAT YOU CAN DO 13 

— '* always from the viewpoint of voluntary ef- 
fort." ^ Every one is asked to enter the fold as 
a volunteer worker, and the heart-and-soul an- 
swers that have come to this patriotic call, the 
enthusiasm and conscientiousness with which 
special appeals for food-sparing or food use have 
been met and kept, prove that we have ground 
for the greatest faith in our democracy and con- 
tinued and extended liberty. 

Although created purely as a war-emergency 
measure, it is now believed that, even had not 
the war come home to us directly, food control 
in some form would have been called for by the 
people, for food conditions had reached a climax 
where some action for the welfare of the country 
was urgently required. If this is so, shall we not 
hope then that some sane form of food adminis- 
tration may become a permanent factor in our 
government? Whether for war or for peace, 
however, with every aim, phase, and division 
of our present or any similar government food 
organization in Washington, every kitchen in 
every state in the United States is definitely and in- 
timately connected. The vibrations of every daily 
food need or demand of the people are recorded 
in the office of the Food Administration, and it is 
the housekeeper, better than any one else, who, 

^ "Food Armies of Liberty," Herb^t Hoover, National 
Geographic Magazine^ September, 191 7. 



U FOOD AND FREEDOM 

in the understanding and ability with which she 
regulates her home, can wisely control and rightly 
direct these food needs and wants. Just to the 
extent that she plans her meals, buys her food, 
cooks, serves, and saves intelligently or not does 
she register as a helper or a drag in the work of 
strengthening the food situation of the country. 
Twenty-two million homes, twenty-two million 
housekeepers, organized and understanding, are 
a power that must be reckoned with. The na- 
tional food problem cannot be separated from 
the home food problem, and just to the extent 
that the food problem is placed on a sounder 
footing in the homes in the United States will 
the United States and the other nations of the 
world benefit accordingly. 

Then the question comes. What definite steps 
can the housekeepers of America take in order to 
help in this new and important work of food ad- 
ministration? How shall each individual house- 
keeper prepare herself to meet the burdens now 
so insistently pressed upon her, and through that 
preparation count as an active force in bettering 
food conditions the world over? In partial an- 
swer, the following summary suggests itself: 

WHAT YOU CAN DO 
1. Help to Produce More Food: 

By recognizing the rights of the farmer to a 
just profit and a free market. 



WHAT YOU CAN DO 15 

By cultivating and planting and cherishing 
every available acre, lot, garden spot, or yard 
to help feed your family, for the present, at 
least. 

By using the foods urged by the government; 
by sparing the foods we are asked to spare. 

2. Help to Regulate Food Distribution: 

By assisting the Food Administration and 
the United States Department of Agriculture 
at Washington, through your home state and 
town to keep the country^s food-supply in- 
ventoried. How much available food is on 
hand, where it is, to whom it belongs, how 
it may best be marketed, what the crop and 
other food prospects are in different localities, 
or what special food difficulties may prevail, 
are matters that concern us all. 

By fighting all wrong food control or other 
unwise or unfair handling or manipulations 
that may artificially cut off the supply and 
increase prices. 

3. Help to Conserve Food: 

By studying organized and economical living, 
food values, scientific feeding, proper cook- 
ing. Get in touch with the United States 
Food Administration Board, the United States 
Department of Agriculture, or with your state 
college of agriculture, and take advantage of 
all the available free information that is 
printed and so generously distributed by 



i6 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

these agencies. Take every opportunity that 
may come to you, or, better, create the op- 
portunity, to become acquainted with au- 
thentic food facts. Study reHable books, bul- 
letins, and magazine articles on the subject 
of food and housekeeping. Learn to plan 
meals, buy, cook, and serve without waste. 

By serving and eating only what is needed; 
let that be enough, however, to maintain 
health and the full working efficiency of the 
body. 

By eliminating all wasteful methods of living, 
false standards, and household food waste. 

By properly preserving and storing food, when 
advisable and practical, against future need. 

If, in our efforts along these lines, we shall 
ultimately succeed in establishing a closer union 
between the government and the people than our 
political history has ever recorded, in acquiring 
that scientific knowledge of foodstuffs now recog- 
nized as so vital, in improving food distribution 
and marketing conditions so that our vast possi- 
bilities in food production can materialize and 
become available without waste and undue cost, 
and in so organizing our daily living that the sum 
total of drudgery and friction is lessened, we shall 
perform a service to this country far greater than 
we can perhaps visualize at once. To consum- 



WHAT YOU CAN DO 17 

mate such a service, however — although we have 
been placing the burden of our troubles on the 
American housekeeper — the unselfish co-opera- 
tion of all interests in the country — individual, 
business, professional, political — is required. Are 
we ready to give *'for our flag and for our free- 
dom" and for our homes, now and for all time, 
that co-operation? 

*' It will not be a creed, but a crusade, that will 
unite Christendom" and save democracy the 
spirit of the present adds. Those who have their 
fingers on the pulse of the world will tell you that 
our crusade has come. And the specific nature 
of that crusade — so far as America, at least, 
is concerned — must be a crusade for carrying 
food knowledge and a deeper appreciation of 
the far-reaching value of that knowledge, properly 
understood and applied, into every home in this 
great country. For the waste and the fire which 
have bled and scorched our world we must at 
least in one particular show gratitude. What the 
American women have not known about the dull 
routine of food and feeding, the great conflict has 
disclosed; what power for good lies in the light 
now shed on that routine it has brought forth. 

As sisters, as wives, as mothers, as friends, as 
helpers to all that is noble, you, the educated 
women of this generation, have a responsibility 
and an influence that should make you at once 



i8 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

happy and grave — happy, because of the limitless 
power for good that comes of doing day by day 
what must be done, and of seeing, even in the 
drudgery of it, *^a Ught that never was on sea 
nor land''; grave, lest in times of human weak- 
ness you may turn from the light and may see 
only a sad and dull routine in a world of dark- 
ness and sorrow. In these hours which may be 
only the reactionary consequence of the best 
work you have ever done — the nervous depres- 
sion that follows nervous exaltation — learn to 
say with the old philosopher, ^^This, too, shall 
pass,'' and learn to look, even at your own weari- 
ness, with the eyes of a poet. For I still believe 
that, though few women have been great poets, 
it is part of a woman's mission to put poetry 
into life . . . not to scorn the cabbage, but to in- 
vest it with a rose motive, to see the light that 
kindles the commonplace into everlasting 
truth.^ 

REFERENCES AND CREDIT NOTE: 

The food facts as outlined in Chapters I and II have 
been arranged from the following authoritative sources; 
full credit is given. For further and more detailed 
knowledge, these publications are earnestly recom- 
mended : 

The Food Problem, Kellogg and Taylor, Macmillan 

Company, New York, N. Y. 
"Ten Lessons in Food Conservation," United States 

Food Administration, Special Bulletin. 
Bulletin No. 6, United States Food Administration. 

1 Le Baron Russell Briggs, Harvard University, 



WHAT YOU CAN DO 19 

"What Food Control Means/' United States Food 
Administration, Special Paper. 

"The World on Rations/' United States Food Ad- 
ministration, Special Paper. 

Annual Report, Secretary Houston, United States 
Department of Agriculture, December, 1916. 

"The Food Situation," Secretary Houston, United 
States Department of Agriculture, March, 191 7. 

"Food Armies of Liberty,'' Herbert Hoover, National 
Geographic Magazine ^ September, 191 7. 



Ill 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 

The new democracy holds the near solution of domestic 
drudgery. ... To have only beautiful things and artistic 
devices in our homes in order to produce a simplicity 
de luxe would be to emancipate many women and cheer 
many men. The new home will be a well-organized and 
beautiful expression of a new life in which men and 
women together will gradually make disorder, dirt, and 
extravagance conspicuous by their absence. — Mrs. Have- 
lock Ellis, in The Craftsman Magazine, July, 191 4. 

F we, the housekeepers of America, are 
effectively to answer this call to serve 
the world, if we are to satisfy our ob- 
ligation in the present emergency, if 
we are to build better for the future than we have 
built in the past, there are certain fundamental 
facts in connection with home-making with which 
we should be familiar. We should, moreover, 
be able to trace these facts in their logical sig- 
nificance, and appreciate them in their relative 
importance. These facts clearly grasped, once 




WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 21 

sensed in some orderly fashion, should form a 
helpful background on which to shape our service. 
When ordered, they read somewhat as follows: 

The home is the birthplace of every human im- 
pulse.^ It represents the unit of the state, and 
has very fittingly been called the index of civil- 
ization. What happens in the home shapes 
the world beyond. 

Home-making deals essentially with the material 
protection and spiritual advancement of the 
family or those who make up the home. 

Ideal home-making requires the combined, or- 
ganized effort and unselfish devotion of both a 
man and a woman; it includes such feeding, 
clothing, shelter as well as moral, mental, and 
social education for each member of the family 
as shall enable each to get the best and the most 
out of life by giving the best and the most to 
life. 

On the material side, the man's part has dealt 
primarily with providing shelter and acquiring 
such raw materials as might be converted into 
suitable food, clothing, and furnishing. Wom- 
an's part has dealt primarily with the conver- 
sion of these raw materials into their most use- 
ful form. 

With progress and development, the type of raw 
material, the method of acquiring it, and the 

^ Helen Campbell, Household Economics ^ chap, i, p. i8. 



22 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

means of converting it into the desired end 
have changed from time to time. 

With progress, also, man's efforts and services 
have become definitely organized and are now 
recognized, valued, and paid for on some exact 
basis of calculation; they are commonly called 
wage-earning. Woman's efforts and services 
have remained unorganized, have not been defi- 
nitely recognized, and have been accepted with- 
out being fully valued; they are commonly called 
housekeeping. 

To-day, man brings money to the home rather 
than raw materials, while it is largely a woman's 
work to use this money to the best possible ad- 
vantage — for the individual, the home, and the 
nation. This means wise spending for both raw 
materials and finished products, as well as wise 
utilization of all materials and products pur- 
chased. 

This twofold effort is not entirely simple, how- 
ever. It requires some knowledge of values, 
with the power to choose wisely; some knowl- 
edge of prpduction, with the abiHty to do and 
make things well; some appreciation of the re- 
lation of the home to outside production and 
distribution, with judgment to rightly direct 
and wisely control home demands. All this, 
in turn, requires trained intelligence, skill, en- 
ergy, time. In addition, the growing and right- 
ful desire of all women for freedom and self- 
development, for recognition of their services, 
for a ^^paid job" of their own, has added other 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 23 

complications. Moreover, the old habit of lack 
of organized effort has persisted, and confusion " 
and waste in the home have followed. 

To-day, with fewer things to do in the home 
than formerly, with means to make more simple 
those things that remain to be done, with a 
broader, freer, sweeter individual life within 
our reach, home-making has become the unsolved 
problem that we find it, and our homes are suf- 
fering, and the world beyond is feeling it. 

From its very nature, and its very necessity, 
and its unyielding effect on the development of 
the individual, that part of housekeeping dealing 
with food and feeding is the most complicated, 
is most far-reaching in its influence, and requires 
the most readjustment. As housekeepers, we 
have neither spent our food money nor utilized 
our food materials to the best advantage; we 
have not entirely kept pace with new conditions 
and new needs; we have not mastered the new 
knowledge required. As a result, we stand un- 
prepared, as a body, to meet wisely and effi- 
ciently our share of the great world food and 
feeding problem suddenly thrust upon us, to feed 
not only ourselves, but those who are dependent 
upon us, to save our homes for that bigger, freer 
living that must come. We need home help, 
ourselves, before we can give the national and 
world help asked of us. 

How can this help be obtained? There is only 
one real way. It can only be obtained through 



24 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

organization in the home and education on the 
part of those -who keep the home.^ 

The point has now been reached where order 
must be introduced into our scheme of home- 
making and a fresh start made. The idea of 
establishing a home on saner standards, and con- 
ducting it on business principles, must be common- 
ly accepted by the world. Women's end, specif- 
ically, must be organized, recognized, and given 
a money value. Housekeeping must be lifted 
from its daily, ceaseless, careless grind and faced 
and conquered and paid for, just as any other 
worth while work is faced and conquered and 
paid for. The home to-day must meet the condi- 
tions of to-day. The necessary, practical steps 
in order to bring this about include: 

1. Organization of home-making and housekeeping as 
a whole: 

By recognizing the money value of household 
work, and crediting this as a definite part of 
the annual income. 

By planning an annual budget, based on this 
total income, and living up to this budget as 
conscientiously as possible. 

^ There are those, however, who believe that help must 
come by taking the food problem out of the home entirely. 
While economy in materials, money, time, and labor 
would unquestionably result, is this the only end in home- 
making, is it the only basis on which national prosperity 
must be founded? Would economy so effected be of value 
to the world? 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 25 

By securing ''household help'^ through sim- 
plified living, efficient working conditions in 
the home, and, where further help may be re- 
quired and can be afforded, through profes- 
sional help based on an eight-hour day. 

2. Specialized education and technical training in the 
science of home-making and housekeeping, particu- 
larly in that part of housekeeping dealing with food 
and family feeding. 

For the two people who constitute the im- 
portant members of the home partnership — the 
man and the woman — there are, in reality, 
exactly the same problems to be faced as there 
are by any individual, firm, or corporation that 
is about to engage in any productive and hope- 
fully profitable enterprise in the business world. 
In order that the home-making problem can be 
squarely and fairly met, with profitable returns 
for both partners, the following points should be 
squarely and fairly faced before the start is made : 

The capital on hand. 

The annual income, estimated both in money 
earned and household service given. 

The special needs of the particular home under 
consideration, with provision for its development 
and protection for the future. 

In other words, one should take stock, as it were, 
of all assets and liabilities, invest the available 



26 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

capital wisely in the desired home plant and its 
necessary equipment, plan a well-balanced bud- 
get, dividing the total annual income to the very 
best advantage, and never once lose sight of the 
fact that each new year should see the proposed 
''business'* farther along the road in mutual 
happiness and wealth, always an asset to the 
community. This is a large order, possibly, but, 
with determination and the right method of ap- 
proach, it can usually be filled. 

With the available capital once properly in- 
vested in a suitable house, the next important 
move is to work out the best possible division 
of the regular income to cover expenditures for 
a certain interval. This division of income is 
spoken of as the "family budget.'' Clearly de- 
fined, ''a budget is a detailed plan of anticipated 
income and expenditure for some definite future 
period of time, as a week, or month, or year; it 
is intended to control expenditures during that 
period." ^ 

A well-arranged budget includes five main 
items: food, home, clothing, running expenses, 
and personal development, with provision for the 
future — these items to be considered in the order 
given. Under normal conditions of living, ex- 
penditures for these items, in incomes ranging 

^ Benjamin R. Andrews, Ph.D., -4 Survey of Your House- 
hold Finances, 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 27 

from two thousand to four thousand dollars, for 
an average family of three to five persons, have 
been planned on a more or less definite percentage 
basis, approximately as follows: ^ 

Food 30 per cent. 

Rent, or interest on home 20 " 

Clothing 15 '' 

Running expenses 15 ^' 

Advancement, education, savings 20 " 

To what extent the percentage expenditures 
suggested can be followed will depend upon local 
conditions, the ages and needs of the various 
members of the family, and personal and social 
ambitions. An annual budget carefully planned, 
however, and put in effect on the first day of the 
home-making business year will more or less 
enable one to control expenditures in each depart- 
ment of living for that year. At least we can 
know within certain limitations what our ex- 
penditures are, and how we are prepared to meet 
them. With a budget well in hand, if it is not 
possible to make ends meet in one way, other 
methods will suggest themselves. 

Of all the items covered in the family budget, 
however, that of food combined with operating 
expenses, or the cost of running the home — which 
includes fuel, light, help, upkeep — is the most 

^ Cf. Ellen H. Richards, The Cost of Living, chap, iii; 
also, John B. Leeds, The Household Budget, chap. vi. 



28 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

variable and the most complicated. It is con- 
stantly affected by outside local and world con- 
ditions. It is, therefore, the most difficult to 
handle with the greatest consistent advantage 
to both the home and the country. Under the 
present disturbed conditions this is particularly 
true. 

With this food and feeding problem of the 
average home intelligently mastered, however, 
housekeepers must agree that comparatively little 
now remains that is difficult in home -making. 
For the housekeeper of to-day who realizes the 
importance of this home problem, and appreciates 
its relation to the greater food and feeding prob- 
lem of the world, and that both problems are 
her very definite personal responsibilities in the 
present crisis, there is but one way out. This 
way lies through a scientific knowledge of food 
values wisely interpreted and consistently and 
conscientiously applied according to the food 
needs of those for whom she is responsible. This 
is sometimes called scientific feeding. When it 
can be accomplished with little effcirt, without 
waste, and with the best and happiest results to 
all concerned for the money, time, and energy 
spent, it might be called good housekeeping. 

The questions we should know how to answer 
in order to feed scientifically, or to be good house- 
keepers, as we may prefer to call it, include: 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 29 

What food is. 
Why food is needed. 
What the different food elements are. 
What each does for the body. 
How much of each is needed. 
What common foods best supply them. 
What proportion and combinations are desirable. 
What part cooking and serving play in the ulti- 
mate nutritive satisfaction food can give. 

We should also know: 

How to plan, buy, cook, serve, save to the best 
advantage for every interest affected — the in- 
dividual, the home, our own country, those in 
other parts of the world now dependent upon us. 

But, even fortified with this knowledge, the 
housekeeper cannot put it into practice entirely 
alone. In addition to her own efforts, she re- 
quires some practical help with the actual work 
connected with the cooking and serving of meals. 
If this help is not secured in some way, the house- 
keeper is overworked and her particular enter- 
prise in home-making cannot be a success. 
Whether this needed help shall be hired labor or 
the establishment of labor-saving conditions in 
the home is one of the questions of the day. 

Fortunately, perhaps, the question of personal 
help, in the usual unskilled way in which it has 
been accepted, is becoming a problem of the past. 
If one is big enough to look at it in a big way, 
surely this is all for the best. Varying statistics 
3 



30 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

have shown that formerly only from twelve to 
eight per cent, of the families in the United 
States attempted to keep ** hired help." More 
recent figuring has brought the percentage down 
as low as six per cent. What difficulties face that 
remaining six per cent, most of us know, if not 
from actual experience, at least from what we 
are able to learn. Changes in our ideals of living, 
the rightful desire of all women to be free and 
independent himian beings, the Great War, have 
all combined to bring about conditions that have 
almost cut off the source of supply of so-called 
hired help. 

The truly business-like housekeeper of to-day 
must get and is getting the needed household 
help largely through labor-saving conditions in 
the home, including mechanical labor-saving de- 
vices. This seems not only the most reasonable 
procedure, but, cleverly worked out, gives the 
most satisfactory results for the money spent. ^ 
Where still more help may be needed or desired, 

^ The chart on page 252 in chap, xii will give one an 
approximate idea of how a sum of money set aside for 
help may be expended in securing such ideal working 
conditions that personal help need never be missed. Add 
to this sum the expense of feeding, also damage and un- 
certainty costs of unskilled labor, and a considerable 
amount of money would be in hand annually for convert- 
ing into such home improvements as would not only give 
the needed help, but — since permanent equipment fairly 
represents capital invested — would automatically increase 
one's wealth. 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 31 

the plan of employing specialized, professional 
service by the hour or day, based on the eight- 
hour labor law, is meeting with success. It is a 
plan which should have the support of every 
broad-minded man and woman in the country. 

Although so many departments of our daily 
living are now increasingly provided for outside 
the home, this food and feeding problem, with 
its intricate complications, still remains. And it 
is a problem, apparently, that, for the best good to 
the greatest nimiber, must be solved in the home. 

Fortunately, food and household authorities 
have been devoting years of study to this very 
problem and have now sane standards and sound 
advice available to all who may wish to profit 
by them. If, in fitting ourselves with this new 
and necessary knowledge, now asked of us in the 
name of liberty for our country and democracy 
for the world, we honestly offer our best and most 
understanding effort, freedom for ourselves — 
that end which is the cause and hope of every 
woman movement on record — shall be our reward. 

REFERENCES: 

For help in organizing home-making and house- 
keeping the following publications are recom- 
mended : 

Man and Woman, Havelock Ellis. 

**The Economic Function of Woman,'' Technical Edu- 



32 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

cation Bulletin^ Edward T. Devine, Teachers Col- 
lege, New York, N. Y. 

A History of the Family as a Social and Educational 
Institution, Willystine Goodsell. 

Household Economics, Helen Campbell. 

The Art of Right Living, Ellen H. Richards. 

Progress in the Household, Lucy M. Salmon. 

Woman and Labor, Olive Schreiner. 

The Business of Being a Woman, Ida M. Tarbell. 

Home Problems from a New Sta?idpoint, Caroline L. Hunt. 

*' Saving Strength," by E. M. Bishop and Martha Van 
Rensselaer, Cornell Reading Course, Cornell Uni- 
versity, Ithaca, N. Y. 

The Woman Who Spends, Bertha J. Richardson. 

The Cost of Living, Ellen H. Richards. 

The Household Budget, John B. Leeds (published by 
John B. Leeds, Germantown, Philadelphia, Pa.). 

''A Survey of Your Household Finances,'' Technical 
Education Bulletin, Benjamin R. Andrews, Ph.D., 
Teachers College, New York, N. Y. 

Wanted — Young Woman to Help with Housework, C. 
Helene Barker. 

Journal of Home Economics, published monthly by the 

American Home Economics Association, Baltimore, 

Md. 

Note. — This periodical, in addition to valuable articles 
covering every phase of the food and home-making 
problem, contains, each month, a bibliography of 
new publications and current periodical literature 
dealing with food and home economics. By follow- 
ing this bibliography it is possible to keep abreast 
of the times in the food and home-making world. 

The Foundation of National Prosperity, Ely, Hess, 
Leith, and Carver. 

Note. — This volume contains interesting chapters and 
paragraphs of definite value to the home-maker. 



WHAT WE SHOULD KNOW 33 

For additional help consult and keep in touch 
with the home economic publications and food 
bulletins issued by: 

The State Agricultural Colleges. 

The United States Department of Agriculture, Wash- 
ington, D. C. 

The United States Food Administration, Washington, 
D. C. 

Woman's Committee, Council of National Defense, 
Washington, D. C. 

The United States Bureau of Education, Department 
of the Interior, Washington, D. C. 

Note. — Education jot the Home^ parts i, ii, iii, and iv, 
by Benjamin R. Andrews, Ph.D., published by the 
United States Bureau of Education, contains a very 
comprehensive survey of the whole subject of Home 
Economics, its development and progress, with a 
list of colleges and universities in the United States 
teaching Home Economics and related subjects; 
part iv contains a very complete list of references on 
Education for the Home, including standard books, 
periodicals, and syllabuses, with a list of cities and 
towns in the United States in which Home Eco- 
nomics or Household Arts is taught. 

See also references listed in subsequent chapters, 
particularly Chapters VII, VIII, and XL 



IV 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 

But what of that, where, down the roll, 

Each has the chance to prove, at par, 
The steel-shod manhood of his soul 

Against whatever odds there are; 
The chance to suffer — and to grow — 

That some day, when the flags are furled, 
The children of to-day may know 

A finer and a better world. 
— Grantland Rice, from ** 191 8 — The Soldier.'* 

UT a ready, reasonable grasp of the 
food knowledge outlined, and its prac- 
tical application to the life of the home, 
is not yet the end of our food problem. 
There is one more milestone to be reached and 
passed. And every law of self-preservation and 
humanity demands this final effort. All the food 
knowledge we can master must now be wisely 
and profitably applied to the very special national 
and world food conditions, food needs, and food 
possibilities as they exist at present. This calls 
for judgment, foresight, self-denial, the vddest 




THE WORLD ON A DIET 35 

kind of vision, the truest patriotism as well as 
scientific knowledge in the selection and use of 
whatever food we may be entitled to. 

In the original scheme of primitive living, 
eating was very simple. Nature supplied a limited 
variety of needed foods, and gave to man the 
instinct to choose the proper one at the proper 
time. But with progress came many changes in 
our ideals and methods of living. The twentieth 
century, particularly, opened new possibilities, 
created new needs, provided many and varied 
means of satisfying those needs — all with a con- 
sequent effect on our food-supply, and in our 
attitude toward that supply. Improvements in 
agriculture, increased transportation facilities, de- 
velopments in the science of food preservation, 
the practical application of chemistry and bac- 
teriology to food materials, gave us a bewildering 
choice of foods. Wherever we lived, whatever 
food the world could grow was ours. Foods 
never known or grown before became common. 
The package with the label was created. Out- 
of-season foods, new foods, predigested foods, 
concentrated foods, specially prepared foods, 
ready-to-eat foods were pressed upon us. We 
were tempted and pampered at every turn. 

Out of this abundance came confusion, lack 
of appreciation, extravagance, over-indulgence, 
waste. Our instinct deserted us; we had no 



36 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

knowledge of food values to take its place. We 
ate what we wanted rather than what the body 
needed. We spent a dollar to satisfy a craving 
that was not normal, when a penny might have 
bought the honest nourishment required. We 
ate more food, and had more meals than we 
needed. More money was spent on food than 
any real need could fairly justify. 

And so we were living when the Great War 
came and stopped us. We have, suddenly and 
almost without warning, been forced to think, 
and must now change our ways. The world must 
go on a diet, and unless this diet is observed the 
strength and freedom of the world are at stake. 

Briefly reviewed, conditions are as follows: 

With the exception of the United States, the 
world is short of food. Even the United States 
is short of some foods, although it has its normal 
supply, even an abundance of other foods. 

Out of this supply the United States must feed 
not only its own people, but those in other parts 
of the world who have given their all for liberty 
and our protection, and are now dependent 
upon us. 

Conditions require that all foodstuffs exported 
shall be of the most concentrated kind. This 
includes wheat, beef, mutton, pork products, fat, 
dairy foods, sugar. But these important staples 
^re the very foods of which the United States 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 37 

is also short. Moreover, these are the very 
foods which have for years formed the founda- 
tion of our daily meals. 

To spare these foods, to make them meet our 
own needs as well as the needs of those who are 
dependent upon us, we must eat less than our 
normal supply, waste not one particle, and make 
up what may be lacking in these staples by sub- 
stituting other foods which we have in greater 
abundance, and which are not desirable for ship- 
ping. 

And, last but not least, this stretching and divi- 
sion of our staple food-supply must be done 
without injuring the health or reducing the 
strength or vitality of the American people. 

And here is where we, the housekeepers of 
America, must make our final great effort. We 
have been asked to make this great obligation, on 
the part of our country, possible and practical. It 
can and must be made possible and practical by : 

1. Eliminating all food waste; this means: 

Careful planning of daily menus. 
Calculated buying of all food. 
Proper care of food in the home. 
Food preparation without waste. 
Good cooking without spoiling food, or loss of 
food value. 

Attractive service without unnecessary abun- 
dance. 
Use of all left-over food§« 



38 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

"Food waste is the greatest of all wastes, be- 
cause it occurs three times a day, year in and year 
out." 1 

" It is the multiplication of minute quantities — 
teaspoonfuls, slices, scraps — ^by ioo,cx5o,ooo, and 
by 365 days that will save the world/' 2 

It is the housekeeper who largely controls these 
minute quantities, and can save them for that 
multiplication which can do so much. 

One slice of bread wasted every day in every 
home in the United States equals over 7,000,000 
bushels of wheat in a year, or 365,000,000 loaves 
of bread. 

One half-cupful of milk wasted every day in every 
home in the United States equals 912,500,000 
quarts in a year. 

One small butter-ball wasted every day in every 
home in the United States equals over 114,- 
000,000 pounds in a year. 

One small left-over scrap of meat wasted every 
day in every home of the United States equals 
450,000,000 pounds of valuable animal food in 
a year — the edible portion of a combined herd 
of 538,000 beef animals, 291,000 calves, 625,000 
sheep and lambs, and over 2,132,000 hogs.^ 

Why not change this waste into production? 

1 Arthur Train, in "The Earthquake." 

2 Herbert Hoover, in **Food Armies of Liberty." 

* United States Department of Agriculture, Reports, 
May, 1 917. 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 39 

2. Substituting foods which we may have in abundance 
for staple foods needed and fitted for export; this 
means: 

Sparing wheat: By substituting corn, rye, oats, 
barley, rice, buckwheat — even potatoes, bananas, 
peanuts, chestnuts. 

Sparing beefy muttony pork: By substituting poultry, 
game, fish, eggs, beans, cheese, nuts. 

Sparing sugar: By substituting syrups, honey, 
dried fruits, sweet fruits, by providing less cake 
and pastry, fewer confections and sweet drinks. 

Sparing fats: By using less fat in cooking, and not 
serving fried foods, rich cakes, or pastry. 

Sparing dairy products: By buying milk with 
judgment, using it with care, and recognizing its 
full food value; by using all sour and skim milk; 
by using less cream and none as a luxury; by 
using no butter in cooking, and substituting 
vegetable fats. 

Sparing all needed staple foods: By using fresh 
fruits, vegetables, and all perishable and local 
foods to the best possible advantage.* 

Wheat is one of the most important of all the foods 
to spare. If we are fortunate enough to have a 
barrel or bag of wheat flour in the house, it should 
be made to last as long as possible by using it in 
combination with a definite proportion of other 
cereal, meal, or flour. Without privation or hurt of 
any kind, we can substitute in this way when baking 
any of our necessary bread foods, or when serving 
cereals in any form. Only a cupful saved here and 

*See "Fresh Fruits and Vegetables as Conservers of 
Other Food," Farmers' Bulletin 817, United States De- 
partment of Agriculture. 



40 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

there, in each one of our twenty-two million homes, 
providing the practice becomes a habit, soon meas- 
ures many million bushels. 

3. Preserving all surplus perishable food against future 
need; this means; 

Canning. 

Drying. 

Storing. 

Much food waste can be prevented by preparing 
ourselves to be '^ ready to can, preserve, dry, pickle, 
salt, or store '^ all surplus fruits and vegetables, or 
other perishable food that might otherwise go to 
waste. 

When the Food Administration made its first 
great appeal in the fall of 191 7, twelve million 
housekeepers signed the food pledge cards and 
entered volunteer food service. With an average 
of three to five persons to a family, this means 
that in a few months' time forty-eight million of 
our population had very decidedly changed 
their food habits of a lifetime. As time passes, 
this number will, without a doubt, be greatly 
increased, for it is now estimated that it may 
be many years before the ruin in Europe can be 
repaired and order and normal living once again 
restored. During these years thrift, conservation, 
and the **wise and careful" use of wheat, meat, 
butter, milk, sugar must continue to be the con- 
sistent refrain of our food creed. 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 41 

This will mean that in the great majority of 
homes in the United States, in place of fine white 
bread and rolls and the customary cakes and 
pastry, coarser breadstuffs — ^made from whole 
wheat, com, oats, rye, barley, rice, buckwheat in 
various interesting combinations — will be sub- 
stituted. 

It will mean that in these new breads and 
cakes, butter — the customary shortening — will no 
longer be used, but that other fats will be sub- 
stituted — not only drippings, suet, chicken fat, but 
cottonseed, com and nut oils of many varieties. 

It will mean, too, that instead of eating these 
different breads spread with butter, butter will 
be spared occasionally, perhaps frequently, and 
peanut butter, syrup or honey or jam used in its 
place. 

It will mean, further, that instead of the con- 
ventional roast beef, mutton, or pork for dinner, 
we will serve beans, combination cheese and 
cereal dishes, local game, poultry, fish, eggs. 

It will mean fewer cakes, puddings, less pastry; 
it will mean more dates and figs and raisins and 
less sugar in whatever cakes and puddings are 
served; it will mean no icing on the cakes; it 
will mean that the use of fresh fruits and vege- 
tables of all kinds will be greatly increased. 

It will mean, moreover, individual appetite 
control. ''Food conservation is a long, hard pull 



42 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

every day, at every meal, for months at a time 
' — possibly for years." While the Food Adminis- 
tration is trying to ** adjust the food-supply to the 
world's appetite,'* as far as the one hundred and 
ten million people of the United States are them- 
selves concerned, however, each must adjust his 
appetite to the world's food-supply, or the other 
adjustment will not work. 

Surely we shall live, doubtless for some time, 
very differently in many ways than we did before 
the Great War came. In our patriotic enthusi- 
asm, however, we must not forget that ** the proper 
nourishment of every member of our family is 
our first duty," and that unless all these dietary 
changes are met with wisdom the desired end 
shall not be attained. We must not neglect to 
ask to what extent certain of these newer or 
different foods may be identical in nourishment 
with the original foods replaced. We must select 
and buy and prepare these different foods with 
judgment; we must plan our menus intelligently, 
so that, if a certain food must be omitted, some- 
thing equivalent in food value is taking its place. 
Fortunately, in the majority of substitutes offered 
or available there is little chance for trouble. 
The Food Administration has thrashed the prob- 
lem out too thoroughly for that; the normal food 
wealth of the United States offers a too safely 
flexible dietary. 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 43 

**Oats, rye, barley, commeal, or other cereals 
give bread an equal or even greater food value 
than all wheat/' ^ Pure honey, maple sugar, and 
reliable syrups can supply the energy value more 
normally obtained from butter, while the sparing 
of sugar in other ways more or less automatically 
controls any excess use of sweets in the diet. 
Fish, eggs, and poultry are all normal substitutes 
for beef, mutton, or pork; beans, nut and cheese 
dishes, properly prepared, understanding^ served, 
and wisely combined with other foods, afford a 
wholesome and welcome change in the diet. The 
freer use of fruits and vegetables is always a 
blessing. 

The question of fat substitutes offers, on the 
other hand, a somewhat more complicated prob- 
lem. The peculiar or subtle difference in com- 
position between vegetable fats and some of the 
fats of animal origin, more particularly the sig- 
nificant dietary importance of butter fat, is some- 
thing that demands attention, especially in the 
homes where there are children: 

"Associated with fat in certain food materials, 
especially in the fat of milk and eggs, are minute 
quantities of recently discovered and as yet un- 
named substances most important in nutrition. 
These are sometimes referred to as * growth 
determinants.' We do not know yet exactly 

^ United States Food Administration. 



44 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

how much of these substances is found in dif- 
ferent kinds of fat, or how much is needed by 
children or adults, but it is now impossible to 
consider the question of fat in the diet without 
considering them. Conditions in the warring 
nations of Europe, where the fat ration has been 
cut to the lowest limit, have shown that such 
a practice hinders the normal growth of children, 
the maintenance of health in adults, and the 
repair of body tissue after wounds. "^^ 

*'The appeal of the Food Administration to 
reduce the use of fats is of serious national im- 
portance,'* but the added appeal, **and especially 
to limit butter to free use on the table rather than 
in cooking,'* is of equal national importance. Let 
us cut out all the butter in cooking if we will and 
should, but let us not be blind in our patriotism 
or sense of economy and omit to serve butter on 
the table — ^unless we are very sure that the ex- 
tremely necessary food elements specifically at- 
tributed to and normally derived from butter 
fat are supplied in some other way. Where the 
quantity of butter normally served at table is 
consistently reduced, milk, cream, cheese, egg 
yolks, and the green-leaf vegetables or salad 
plants should be freely used. 

So nationally important, in fact, is this whole 
question of fats, both economically and dieteti- 

^**Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," United States 
Food Administration. 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 45 

cally, that the United States Food Administra- 
tion issued the following, shortly after it was first 
organized: 

'^It is perhaps well to understand first of all just 
which fats are vegetable fats and which are ani- 
mal fats. Cream, butter, oleomargarine, lard, beef 
and bacon drippings, suet, chicken fat, are all of 
animal origin; olive oil, cottonseed, com, and 
nut oils are, of course, of vegetable origin. Oc- 
casionally one finds on the market a product 
which is a combination of a vegetable and animal 
fat. The housekeeper should learn the uses of 
all fats, so that she may not be limited when any 
commonly used fat has gone up in price or has 
been put on the list of those foods to be con- 
served." ^ 

Doctor McCoIlum, nutrition authority of the 
United States Food Administration, added the 
following to the above statement: 

" Do not use butter for cooking. Do not demand 
solid fats for frying. Certain of the oils, particu- 
larly cottonseed and peanut oil, serve practically 
as well as do the high melting fats. We have a 
much greater supply of oils than of solid fats. 
A saving in this direction is very important. 
Milk or egg-yolk fats should always be supplied 
in the diet of children, for they contain something 
which is indispensable to health and growth. 
This element is not present in fats of vegetable 
origin.'* 

^ United States Food Administration Bulletin. 
4 



46 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The question of milk is also most important, 
and its use and conservation should not be con- 
fused or misunderstood. While we are asked to 
conserve milk, we are urged, at the same time, 
to increase its use, and this issue is sometimes 
perplexing. Milk is one of our most valuable 
foods. Its use insures a good diet ; it saves meat ; 
it requires no cooking, therefore saves fuel and 
time. Because of its value, even when compara- 
tively high in price, it is a cheap food. As the 
Food Administration says : 

''No substitute for milk as a food has ever been 
found. ... Its importance in the diet of children 
under ten cannot be overestimated. . . . Experts 
say that every child under six years should have 
a quart of whole milk every day. . . . Whole milk 
for the children is playing safe; no matter what 
the price we cannot afford to let them go with- 
out it.'* 

More specifically, milk contains all the food 
principles, in some proportion, required by the 
body — balanced proteins, carbohydrates, fat, min- 
eral matter, and accessory factors. Quoting again 
from the Food Administration : 

Its protein is most adaptable to uses by the body 
in building and renewing tissue. 

Its sugar is easily utilized by the body. 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 47 

It supplies lime; the lime salts, which are abun- 
dant in milk, are also important in building the 
body and keeping it in good condition; there is 
no other food from which lime salts can so readily 
be obtained; it would take, for example, S/4 
eggs to provide the same amount of calcium as 
is contained in one glass of milk. 
Its butter fat, because of its "growth determi- 
nants'^ (as described above), is absolutely neces- 
sary for children, and probably for older persons 
as well. 



To which Doctor McCollum adds: 

'*Milk is an indispensable article of the diet of 
any people who wish to achieve. . . . Milk is 
worth much more than its energy value or its 
protein content would indicate. It is the great 
factor of safety in making good the deficiencies 
of the grains which form and must continue to 
form the principal source of energy in our diet. 
Without the continued use of milk, not only for 
the feeding of our children, but in liberal amounts 
in cookery and as an adjuvant to our diet, we 
cannot as a nation maintain the position as a 
world power to which we have arisen. The 
keeping of dairy animals was the greatest factor 
in the history of the development of man from 
a state of barbarism. We are now in a critical 
time when the dairy industry is in jeopardy. I 
feel it my privilege to point out that we are still 
dependent upon the dairy industry for our con- 
tinued prOvSperity.'^ — From Brader^s Gazette, De- 
cember, 191 7. 



48 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

In order that we shall continue to have, there- 
fore, this very essential milk to meet our abso- 
lute needs, in order that the number of our herds 
— which very truly represent the strength of a 
country — shall not be decreased, the demand for 
milk as a food must be increased. The dairyman 
must be encouraged, milk production must be 
stimulated by increased use. Because of the im- 
mediate actual milk shortage, however, this in- 
creased demand for milk must be accomplished 
without waste, or careless or unfair use. The 
subtle complication is apparent, and can only 
be unraveled, step by step, somewhat as follows: 

*^Milk consumption in the United States should 
not fall below one pint of milk per capita per 
day." ^ From one pint to one quart of whole milk 
a day for each child, and from one-half to one 
pint for each adult is a wise allowance. A gen- 
eral demand for this amount would react favor- 
ably on the dairying business. 

At the present time, however, with our popu- • 
lation of over 100,000,000, ^'we produce only 
39,354,116,300 quarts of milk a year. Of this 
4.3 per cent, must go to feed calves, while 6.6 
per cent, is used for the manufacture of ice- 
cream and condensed milk. 89.1 per cent, is 
left for butter, cheese, and consumption in 
fluid form. This gives each of us not more than 
350 quarts of milk a year,'' or one quart a day 

1 Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem, 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 49 

for everything — butter, cheese, whatever milk is 
used as milk, as well as the butter we must ex- 
port. This at best means only one-half pound 
of butter apiece a week, a limited use of cream, 
and no milk wasted, if there is to be enough 
whole milk left, in fluid form, for the children. 

Until our milk equilibrium can be restored, there- 
fore, and while we must keep in mind increased 
consumption in order to encourage the producer 
a fair division of whatever milk is immedi- 
ately available must be made, every drop of 
milk must be used to advantage, and all chil- 
dren — particularly those under six years — 
should be protected, and receive their needed 
and just measure of unskimmed milk. It is to 
insure this that we have been asked by the Food 
Administration to refrain from the use of butter 
in cooking, and cream as a luxury — unless, of 
course, a fortunate and abundant local or per- 
sonal supply might otherwise justify its use. 
Butter for cooking, and cream merely to gratify 
the palate are unessential^ and should not be 
used at the cost of table butter for another, 
or whole milk for a child. These are essential 
— and cannot go. 

''Conservation as an economic and political 
term has come to mean the preservation of our 
natural resources for economical use, so as to 
secure the greatest good to the greatest number." ^ 
Conservation of milk means to use it, but to use 
it with judgment. 

1 Ex- President Taft. 



so FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The discipline, as well as food economy and 
education resulting from our living by the pledge, 
must show itself in greater national strength, in 
less parrow methods of living, in the years to 
come. And if, in this final effort, we, once more, 
honestly offer our best and most understanding 
service, then, hopefully, not only freedom for 
ourselves, but a new and stronger world freedom, 
shall be the great reward. 

REFERENCES: 

The Food Problem^ Kellogg and Taylor. 

**Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," Bulletin, United 
States Food Administration. 

Bulletin No. 6, United States Food Administration. 

''What Food Control Really Means," James H. Col- 
lins, special paper, United States Food Adminis- 
tration. 

*'The World's Food," Annals of the American Academy 
of Political and Social Science, November, 191 7. 

Changes in the Food Supply, and Their Relation to 
Nutritio7i, Lafayette B. Mendel. 

Food Industries, Vulte and Vanderbilt. 

Food Thrift Series, United States Department of Agri- 
culture. 

Farmers' Food Bulletins, United States Department 
of Agriculture: 
*'Use of Corn, Kafir, Cowpeas in the Home," 

Farmers' Bulletin 559. 
"Commeal as a Food," Farmers' Bulletin 565. 
*' Honey and Its Use in the Home," Farmers' Bul- 
letin 653. 



THE WORLD ON A DIET 51 

*^Fats and Their Economical Use," Farmers' Bul- 
letin 469. 

'* Economical Use of Meat in the Home," Farmers' 
Bulletin 391. 

"Cheese: Economical Uses in the Diet," Farmers' 
Bulletin 487. 

"Care of Food in the Home," Farmers' Bulletin 

375. 
Note. — The above, as well as other valuable bulletins on 
food and food conservation, may be obtained free of 
cost, or for a nominal sum, by addressing the Chief 
of the Division of Publications, or the Superintendent 
of Documents at the Government Printing Office, 
United States Department of Agriculture, Washing- 
ton, D. C. 

Weekly News Letter, United States Department of 

Agriculture. 

Journal of the American Medical Association, 

(Current articles.) 

Food Bulletins, United States Food Administration. 

Note. — Emergency information in connection with food 
and food conservation, as well as a bibliography of all 
new publications covering food, food conservation, 
and food needs of the world, may be obtained by 
addressing the United States Food Administration, 
Washington, D. C. 

*' Supplementing Our Meat Supply with Fish," Bureau 
of Chemistry, United States Department of Agri- 
culture, Washington, D. C. 

Also Special Bulletins — ''The Bowfin," "Tilefish," 
''Sea Mussels," etc.. Bureau of Fisheries, Depart- 
ment of Commerce, Washington, D. C. 
See also references listed at close of Chapters HI 

andX. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 

What Food Is : 

Primarily, food is that which nourishes the body, 
keeping it alive. 

*^Life consists of a series of changes in the pro- 
toplasm — the birth, growth, and death of cells fol- 
lowing each other in an interminable cycle. The 
processes of life can only go on when the cells are 
supplied with a well-balanced food suitable. for 
their needs." ^ 

What Food Does : 

The body is composed of a number of chemical ele- 
ments — carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sul- 
phur, phosphorus, chlorine, sodium, potassium, 
calcium, magnesium, iron, and traces of others. 
These elements are present in the body in approxi- 
mately definite, relative amounts, forming certain 
chemical combinations that enter into the tissues 
and fluids of the body, and constitute the body 
substance. 2 

^ William Tibbies, Food in Health and Disease, Preface, 
p. V. 

2 See Sherman, Chemistry of Food and Nutrition^ chap. x. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 53 

In order that the life and activities and health of 
the body can be continued and maintained, these 
elements, in the required relative amounts, so as 
to insure the proper balance of the chemical com- 
pounds, must be preserved. 

During the normal processes of life and living, 
however, these elements are continually spent, or 
lost, or used in some way, and must be replaced as 
they are needed, or the health of the body suffers 
and its activities and life will cease. 

It is the mission of food to supply these elements 
as they may be required, and in such form as the 
body can use to advantage; the nutritive value 
of a food is measured by its ability to fulfil this 
mission. 

To simplify the more or less complex relationship 
existing between the body and its food, food scien- 
tists compare the living body to a working engine 
or machine, although the human engine is far 
more perfect, ingenious, self-contained, and self- 
sustaining than any mechanical engine.^ 

In order to live: 

I. The body must continue to work, and a 
normal body temperature must be main- 
tained. 

The work of the body is of two kinds: 
That which goes on continuously and in- 
voluntarily inside the body, such as the 
action of the heart, lungs, and organs 
of digestion; that which the body does 

^ Credit References listed on page 73. 



54 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

voluntarily, any form of muscular ef- 
fort or exercise, such as walking, wash- 
ing, playing — in other words, ^^ doing 
things/' Body heat or temperature is 
largely a result, or a left-over product, 
of the work done by the body. 

2. The body structure must be kept sound 
and in repair. 

3. The body functions must be properly 
regulated. 

Food must serve these three great needs; the body 
requires, therefore: 

1 . Food for fuel, or as a source of energy or 
power to keep the body working, and of 
the required normal temperature — just 
as any engine or motor, whether steam or 
gasolene or electric, requires fuel of some 
kind to make it operate. 

2. Food for body growth a7id repair — just as 
any engine requires basic material for its 
construction and repair. 

3. Food for body regulation — just as any en- 
gine requires lubrication, special adjust- 
ment, and control. 

In order to keep the body working properly and 
in good condition it is important that the food 
should be right in kind and quantity, just as any 
other type of engine requires its particular fuel in 
the right quantity, as well as proper materials for 
construction, repair, and regulation. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 55 

Technically, in the food consumed, the body must 
find: 

1. Elements which it can utilize as a source 
of energy. 

2. Elements which it can utilize as building 
material. 

3. Elements which it can utilize for regulat- 
ing purposes. 

Kinds of Food: 

But these elements can only be used by the body 
*Sn the form of certain definite compounds,'' ^ 
compounds similar to those materials which enter 
into the construction of the body itself. These 
compounds are known as 

Proteins. 

Fats. 

Carbohydrates. 

Ash Constituents (or mineral matter). 

Water. 

In addition to these essential principles, the body 
also requires 

Minute but significant amounts of accessory 
factors, of which as yet little is known except 
that they are definitely needed by the body 
to sustain life, maintain health, and promote 
growth. There are, apparently, different kinds 
or types of these so-called ^^ accessory factors," 
**vit amines," and ^^ growth determinants," each 

^ Rose, Laboratory Manual of Foods ^ p. i , 



56 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

serving some different and specific purpose in 
body growth and regulation.^ 

It is further necessary for body health that 
these food principles and accessory factors be 
used in connection with some bulk or indiges- 
tible ''waste'' material, known as cellulose, and 
popularly spoken of as ''roughage/' Cellulose 
is "the material which composes the cell walls 
and woody fiber of plants.'' Its value to the 
body is largely mechanical, providing normal 
stimulation and exercise for the muscles of the 
intestines. 

Fortunately, these chemical combinations or food 
principles, as well as the accessory substances 
and bulk material required by the body, are dis- 
tributed throughout the world, in both plant 
and animal life, in the form of our commonly 
recognized food materials — grains, meats, milk, 
fruits, vegetables. There we find ready-made 
by nature, all the foods, combining all the ele- 
ments properly compounded, which the body re- 
quires, and can utiUze as fuel, building, and regu- 
. lating materials. They are all there. We must 
choose aright, that is all. 

For identification, to help us make wise selec- 
tions, foods have been variously classified, 
grouped, and named by food authorities, accord- 

* See L. B. Mendel, Nutrition and Growth. 

Also, Tibbies, Food in Health and Disease, chap, xxiii. 

Also, Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem, chaps, v 
and vi. 

Also "Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," United 
States Food Administration, Lesson ix. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 57 

ing to their chemical composition or predomi- 
nating usefulness to the body. Thus we have: 



I. *^FuEL Foods/' which include: 

Carbohydrates y represented by 

Sugars, syrups, honey, jams and jellies, 
figs, dates, raisins, dried currants, and 
starchy foods such as tapioca, corn- 
starch, arrowroot, potatoes, bananas. 

Milk, bread, cereal foods — such as 
wheat and wheat products, corn, rye, 
oats, barley, rice, buckwheat, dried 
lentils, beans, peas, also some vege- 
tables containing much sugar, such as 
beets and old carrots, also sweet fruits, 
belong, in party to this class, as they 
contain a large proportion of car- 
bohydrate material; they contain, in 
addition, however, valuable varying 
amounts of the other needed materials. 

Fats, represented by 

Butter, cream, nut oils and fats, olive 
oil and other vegetable fats, bacon and 
other meat fats. 

Milk, nuts, fat meats, egg yolks, choco- 
late also belong, in part, to this class, as 
they contain a large percentage of fat; 
they also contain, however, valuable 
varying amounts of other food ma- 
terials. 



58 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Proteins,^ represented by 

Lean meats, poultry and game, fish, 
eggs, cheese, milk. With the exception 
of milk, which contains only 3!/^ per 
cent., these foods all contain a large 
proportion of protein material, varying, 
approximately, from 13 to 32 per cent.; 
they are known as *^ balanced, '' ** per- 
fect,'' or ^'efficient'' proteins. 

Cereals, breads, dried lentils, peas and 
beans, nuts, cocoa also belong, in party 
to this class, as they contain a definite, 
even large, percentage of protein ma- 
terial; they are not ** complete'' pro- 
teins, however; they also contain valu- 
able varying amounts of other food 
materials. 

2. '* Building-foods," which include: 

Proteins y represented by 

(as listed above). 

^ Since protein can be burned in the body to yield 
energy, it must be classed here as a fuel food, although, 
because of its importance as a tissue-builder, it is commonly 
considered as a building-food rather than as a fuel food. 
While proteins do serve the body as fuel, they are not re- 
quired by the body for fuel. It is better and cheaper for 
the body to get its fuel from carbohydrates and fats, and 
a good diet is so arranged that protein foods are used chiefly 
for building purposes, and not depended upon for energy. 
If more protein is consumed than the body needs for build- 
ing and repair, this excess protein is destroyed, leaving un- 
desirable products to be eliminated in the urine and over- 
working the kidneys. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 59 

Ash Constituents, found in 

Milk, cereals from whole grains, egg 
yolks, fresh fruits, green vegetables, 
dried lentils, peas, beans. 

3. '^Regulating-foods,'' which include: 
Ash Constituents y found in 
(as listed above). 

Accessory Factors , found in 

Almost all fresh foods — fresh milk, 
fresh meats, fresh fish, cream, butter, 
egg yolks, cheese, fresh fruits and vege- 
tables, green-leaf vegetables and salad 
plants, whole-grain foods. Different 
types are found in different foods, how- 
ever.^ 

Bulk Material J 4*epresented by 

Fruits, vegetables, coarse cereal foods, 
coarse breads, bran — including some 
*'hard'' foods; the latter induce masti- 
cation, which both aids digestion and 
helps to insure sound teeth. 

Water. 

While water is not specifically a "food,'' 
viewed from the standpoint of nutrients 
for the body, it is as important and nec- 
essary as food. 

" Without water the elements could not be 
combined into an organism^ nor could the 
organism carry out its physiological func- 

* See References listed on p. 56. 



6o FOOD AND FREEDOM 

tions. It forms 58.5 per cent, by weight 
of the human body. The daily require- 
ment is estimated from the average 
loss by the skin, lungs, and kidneys, 
which excrete a total of about eighty 
ounces a day. This loss must be made 
good by food and drink. ^' ^ 

Some water is present in all food. In 
raw, fresh -food materials — meats, eggs, 
milk, fruits, vegetables — it varies from 
55 to 95 per cent. In prepared foods 
— flour, cereal products, crackers, dry 
breads — it averages, approximately, less 
than 10 per cent.^ 

For all foods, as we know them, we can find a 
place in the above accepted groupings. The chemical 
composition of foods varies very greatly, however; 
some foods — such as pure sugar or pure fat — con- 
tain only one of the needed food principles; other 
foods — such as fresh, whole milk or cereal products 
milled from whole grains — contain some proportion 
of all the needed principles. Consequently, some 
foods are more important and more nutritively valu- 
able than other foods. This is particularly true of 
pure, whole milk and properly milled cereal products. 
These two foods together are particularly valuable, 
as they complete each other to an extent, and are 
therefore of such importance in the diet of children. 
*^Milk and cereals together make a remarkable com- 

* Tibbies, Food in Health and Disease, p. 6. 

2 See "Chemical Composition of American Food Ma- 
terials," Bulletin 28, United States Department of Agri- 
culture. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 6i 

bination; ' bread-and-milk ^ is justified not only by 
experience, but by theory/' ^ 

The value of proteins, too, must be understood. 
''All proteins are made up of complex nitrogen 
products, which are often called 'building-stones/ 
Some proteins contain these 'building-stones' in 
proper proportion for the building of new tissue. 
Others lack some of the essential 'building-stones.' 
The foods containing the first type are called com- 
plete or efficient tissue-building foods. The others 
are known as incomplete or inefficient tissue-building 
foods. The value of meats in the diet lies in the 
fact that they belong to the complete type of protein 
foods, and therefore when used liberally the necessity 
for intelligent choice is eliminated. The list of per- 
fect or efficient proteins includes beef, veal, mutton, 
lamb, pork, poultry, game, fish, cheese, milk, eggs. 
The inefficient proteins, those which need supple- 
menting with more or less from those of the first 
group, are soy beans, peanuts, navy beans, wax 
beans, kidney beans, lima beans, dried peas, lentils, 
nuts, com, wheat, oats, barley, rye, buckwheat. For 
the young child, the youth, and any one recovering 
from a wasting disease there must be combinations 
of protein foods which will give the right combina- 
tion of 'building-stones.' For the young child milk 
stands first on the list. For the adult, the need for 
large amounts of the more nearly perfect proteins 
is not apparent. The diet of adults can be more 
easily restricted to a limited use of the first, and a 
Hberal use of the second." 2 

^ Lafayette B. Mendel. 

^"Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," United States 
Food Administration, p. 26. See, also, Kellogg and Taylor, 
The Food Problem, chaps, v, vi, vii. 
5 



62 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Digestibility, relish, and flavor are also factors in 
the value of a food; irrespective of its composition, 
the true value of a food can only be estimated ac- 
cording to the completeness with which it serves the 
body, and the ease and completeness with which 
the body can utilize the nutrients it holds. 

Good and bad cooking can greatly affect the 
digestibility and wholesomeness of food; a food 
as analyzed by the food chemist may be one prod- 
uct; as cooked and served on the table it can be 
quite another. 

Since no one food alone — with the exception of moth- 
er's milk for a baby — contains enough of each re- 
quired food element, in the correct proportions, to 
properly feed the body — to serve its three great 
needs — some representative of every group or class 
of foods, as outlined above, must be included, in 
some form, in a wholesome diet for normal people. 
Briefly summarized, to properly feed the body a 
variety of foods — different foods at different meals, 
and something different every day, is desirable. 
*'Food fads" are unwise. A ** narrow, '^ ** one- 
sided," or "restricted" diet can be most harmful. 

How Much Food Is Needed? 

In the early days of living, instinct told us what 
and when and how much to choose. But with civil- 
ized living we have lost some of our instinct, all 
conditions of living have become more complicated, 
and knowledge must now help us out in the wise 
selection of our food. A normal, wholesome appetite, 
under control, is always a good guide, however, as 
to the total amount of food required. If, in addition, 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 63 

the importance of variety is observed, the proper 
balance of the needed elements will be more or less 
automatically supplied, and health, happiness, vi- 
tality, and the normal body weight for age and height 
result.i 

Where such conditions as this exist, and the food- 
supply is normal and adequate, there is little need 
to worry about the feeding problem. 

To insure family health, however, to prevent food 
waste, for purposes of economy, or in cases of special 
food need or any emergency calling for limited or 
restricted feeding, it is of very great advantage to 
know how to estimate the amount of nourishment 
required by an individual, for a day, under given 
conditions, and how best to satisfy that need. The 
present world food and feeding problem makes in- 
telligent, balanced, measured feeding not only a 
necessity, but a duty to the world, neglect of which 
is almost crime. 

Just how much total nourishment is required, just 
how much and what proportion of each necessary 
element should be represented in the day^s food, 
depends largely on the age, sex, size of an individual, 
the amount and kind of work to be accomplished in 
a day, and sometimes climate, and individual peculi- 
arities. 

As a rule, the larger and more physically active 
a body the greater the food requirement. A large 
man or woman, doing muscular work, requires 

* See Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem, pp. 123, 
124. 



64 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

more food than a small man or woman who is not 
active. Men require slightly more food than 
women. Growth is also an important factor. A 
child, or growing boy or girl, requires more food, 
in proportion to body weight, than a fully grown 
person. As age increases, and body activities de- 
crease, less food is needed. 

If too little total food is supplied, or too little 
of any one needed kind, the body suffers from 
under-nourishment, body tissues waste, weight is 
lost, and health and vitality are affected. If too 
much total food is supplied, or too much of any 
one kind, the body suffers from over-nourishment, 
poisons may accumulate, weight may increase be- 
yond normal, and health and vitality are affected. 

Approximately, almost nine-tenths of the total 
food required by the body is used as fuel; the 
balance is used for body construction or repair. 
These two requirements, when properly satisfied 
by means of the necessary variety of food, carry 
with them the special ash constituents and regu- 
lating factors also required. 

Since the chemical composition of different foods 
varies greatly, the amount of total food required 
in a day — as served at the table — cannot very well 
be measured by weight or bulk. It must be esti- 
mated, instead, according to its nutritive value. 

The amounts, in weight, of single food ma- 
terials — such as pure protein, pure fat, pure 
carbohydrate — desirable for an adequate diet, 
under definite conditions, can, however, be esti- 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 65 

mated. For the average individual these 
amounts are, approximately: ^ 

Protein: At least 70 grams (2.5 ounces) 

and not over 90 to 100 grams 
(2.8 to 3.5 ounces) — depend- 
ing upon age and size. 

Fat: Sixty grams (2.12 ounces) is a 

safe standard. 

Carbohydrate: While the total amount of car- 
bohydrate (starch and sugar) 
depends very largely on phys- 
ical activity, of the total 
amount required, however, 
from I to 3 ounces is a liberal 
allowance for sugar. 

How Food Is Measured: 

The nutritive value of food— that is, the carbohy- 
drate, fat, and protein elements — can be measured 
very accurately in terms of the energy or heat it 
is capable of liberating in the body. The unit of 
this measure is named a Calorie. 

The amount of heat given off during the "com- 
bustion" or "oxidation'' of food is a measure of 
the energy value of that food. Scientists can 
measure this heat very accurately by burning the 
food in a specially constructed apparatus called a 
"calorimeter." The calorie is the unit of measure. 

^ See Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem, chaps, v, 
vi, vii. 

Also **Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," United 
States Foo4 Administration, p. 46, 



66 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

One calorie is *^ about equal to the amount of 
heat required to raise the temperature of one pound 
of water four degrees Fahrenheit.'' 

It is now known that every portion or pound of food 
contains a certain number of calories or fuel units, 
the number varying according to the chemical com- 
position of the food. The number of calories a 
given portion or weight of food contains is called its 
''fuel value," or its ''calorie value." 

Some foods, in a given quantity, are capable of 
liberating much energy, and contain, therefore, 
many calories; they are said to be high in fuel 
value, and are called concentrated foods. 

Other foods, weight for weight, do not liberate as 
much energy, do not, therefore, contain as many 
calories, and are said to be low in fuel value; they 
are called bulk foods, and contain a large propor- 
tion of water and indigestible matter. 

The fuel or calorie value of some common foods is 
illustrated as follows: ^ 

I pound of butter 3,605 calories 

I pound of cheese, American 2,055 

I pound of sugar 1,860 

I pound of wheat flour 1,660 

I pound of lean beef, about 900 

1 pint of milk (one pound) 320 

2 medium slices bread 100 

^ See Bulletin 28, United States Department of Agricult- 
ure. 

Also, Fisher and Fisk, How to Live, pp. 170-190. 
Also, Rose, Feeding the Family, Appendix. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 67 

3 plain crackers (large) 100 calories 

I banana 100 ** 

I tablespoonful olive oil 100 " 

I head lettuce (large) 100 " 

I cupful orange juice 100 " 

I egg 75 " 

I apple or pear 75 " 

It is also known that the body requires a certain 
or definite number of calories in a day, and that this 
number depends largely upon age, sex, size, and mus- 
cular activity. For example, approximately figured : ^ 

Laborer — hard work 4,000 to 6,000 calories a day 

Soldier^s ration. . . . 3,500 to 4,500 ** ** 

Farmer 3>5oo to 4,000 

Business man 2,500 to 3,000 

Active woman 2,200 to 3,000 

Boy of sixteen 2,600 to 3,200 " " 

Girl of sixteen 2,300 to 2,800 " " 

Child of four 1,400 about 

Seventy, or over . . . 1,800 about 



it a 






The calorie requirement of an individual may be 
very fairly estimated according to age, height, 
weight, in relation to the day's activity. For ex- 
ample, approximately figured : ^ 

The calorie requirement of an individual when 
sleeping or resting is 12 calories per pound — 
normal body weight ^ — per day. 

* See William Tibbies, Food in Health and Disease^ 
chap. iv. 

Also, Graham Lusk, Basis of Nutrition, chap. ii. 
Also, Kellogg and Taylor, The' Food Problem j chaps, v, vi. 
Also, Rose, Feeding the Family, chaps, iii, iv, x, xi, xiv. 
2 Ibid, 3 5ee tables on p. 247. 






68 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The calorie requirement of an individual doing 
light work is i6 or 17 calories per pound per day. 

The calorie requirement of an individual doing 
moderately hard work is 18 to 20 calories per pound 
per day. 

The calorie requirement of an individual doing 
hard, muscular work is 20 to 23 calories per pound 
per day. 

The calorie requirement of children is higher: ^ 

I to 2 years old ... . 45-40 calories per pound 

3 to 5 years 40-35 

6 to 9 years 35-30 

10 to 13 years 30-25 

14 to 17 years 25-20 " ** 

Thus to estimate the calorie requirement of an 
individual simply multiply the normal body weight 
by the required number of calories, according to 
age or occupation. For example, for a person 
doing light work multiply the normal body weight 
by 16 or 17; for a person doing hard work, by 22 
or 23 ; for a child of three, by 40, etc. 

In cases of overweight, less than the normal 
calorie requirement should be eaten; this is most 
successfully managed by eliminating concentrated 
foods of high calorie value — butter, sugar, cream, 
etc. — and substituting bulk foods low in fuel 
value, such as fruits and vegetables. The secret 
of weight reduction is to eat less than the body 

iRose, "Some Food Facts," Special Bulletin, Teachers 
College, New York, N. Y. 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 69 

really needs for its day^s work; in this way some 
of the excess food stored in the body in the form 
of fat is used.i 

In cases of underweight, more than the normal 
requirement should be eaten. ^ 

By knowing the two facts — the calorie value of any 
given food or portion of food, and the calorie require- 
ment of an individual — it is comparatively simple to 
combine them, and feed very accurately according to 
measure — should need require it. 

The mere calorie value of foods must not be con- 
fused, however, with the complete physiological and 
nutritive value. The kind of calories — whether pro- 
tein, or fat, or carbohydrate — is as important as the 
number. All should be represented in the day's 
total food, and they should be so assembled from a 
variety of foods that they will automatically supply 
the mineral matter or ash constituents and peculiarly 
important accessory factors also required, but which 
cannot be measured in calories. 

As has been estimated, in a good diet the differ- 
ent food materials should be represented, approxi- 
mately, as follows: 2 

Protein 12 per cent. 

Fat 18 '' 

Carbohydrate 68 " 

Mineral matter 2 " 

* For a clear discussion, see Fisher and Fisk, pp. 212-220. 
2 See References listed at the close of this chapter. 
Rose, Feeding the Family^ chaps, v-xi, is particularly 
helpful. 
Also, Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem^ chap. v. 



70 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

In calories, taking 2,500 as the average, this 
division would read, approximately: 

Protein 300 calories 

Fat 500 

Carbohydrate 1,700 ** 

Or, estimated in grams, it reads: ^ 

Protein 70 grams 

Fat 60 " 

Carbohydrate 450 " 

Or, estimated in ounces, it reads: ^ 

Protein 2.5 ounces 

Fat 2.12 '' 

Carbohydrate 7. ** 

Although small, the proportion of protein calories 
is particularly important. Too little protein is harm- 
ful, and too much equally so. With too little pro- 
tein, body tissues waste; with too much, poisons ac- 
cumulate, and kidneys and liver are overworked. 
Children, because they are growing and developing, 
require slightly more protein in proportion to body 
weight than grown people. More than this, however, 
the *^ chief concern in the diet of a growing child is 
not the amount of protein, but the presence of bal. 

^ One gram of protein will yield 4.1 calories. 
One gram of starch will yield 4. i calories. 
One gram of sugar will yield 4 calories. 
One gram of fat will yield 9.3 calories. 

2 One ounce of protein will yield 113 calories. 
One ounce of carbohydrate will yield 113 calories. 



^ne ounce 01 caroonyaraie win yieia 1 
One ounce of fat will yield 255 calories 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 71 

anced protein/' This is one reason why the use of 
milk is urged.i 

The ash constituents and accessory factors of 
food, which cannot be measured in calories are as 
important as its calorie value. Carbohydrate, fat, 
protein, without ash constituents and accessory fac- 
tors, will not feed the body. As has been said, how- 
ever, if the calorie requirement is satisfied by means 
of a variety of food, the necessary ash constituents 
and regulating factors will also be supplied. 

An apple or an egg valued at 75 calories may, 
under some conditions, do the body more good than 
a piece of candy or pastry containing 300 calories. 
This is where instinct can play an important part 
in food selection, and where judgment as well as 
knowledge is needed. 

The Cost of Food: 

The market price of food does not indicate its 
nutritive value. Many cheap foods are more nour- 
ishing than many expensive foods. Foods that fur- 
nish the greatest number and variety of calories, in 
digestible form, or serve the body most completely 
for least money, are cheap foods. 

Milk, cereals, bread are normally cheap foods 
because the return in nourishment — both in quan- 
tity and in kind — is large for the money spent; dried 
beans and lentils contain much nourishment, both 
in quantity and in kind, but are not so easily di- 

* See chap, iv, p. 46; also, chap, vi, p. 81. 
Also, Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem, pp. 112- 
115. 



72 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

gested; their digestibility must be increased by 
careful cooking. 

A quart of whole milk contains, approximately, 
650 calories, of which some are fat, some protein, 
and some carbohydrate; milk contains, as well, 
valuable ash constituents and certain regulating 
factors; moreover, milk requires no cooking or 
other preparation, and is an easily digested food. 
Thus, at 12 cents a quart, or even more, one is 
buying valuable nourishment for little money. 

Market prices range from one-half a cent to five 
cents or over for each 100 calories of nourishment. 

Examples: * 

When buying milk at 12 cents a quart, which is 
650 calories, we are paying approximately 2 cents 
for each 100 calories of nourishment. 
When buying steak, lettuce, canned fish, we are 
paying approximately 5 cents for each 100 calories 
of nourishment. 

If we know what food does, what each food con- 
tains, how much is needed, how to measure it, how 
to value it, it is always possible, according to the 
need of the moment ^ to get the best and the most for 
the money that can be spent, to make every bit of 
purchased nourishment serve to the fullest extent, 
and to make the best possible use of every food 
available. ' 

When our country calls, as it has been calling, 
*' Spare wheat,'* the housekeeper who knows her food 
facts will be able to respond without sacrificing the 

^See Rose, Feedinq the Family ^ pp. 426-429, 



IMPORTANT FOOD FACTS 73 

health of her family, the income of her household, 
or the welfare of the world. 



REFERENCES: 

The Food Problem, Kellogg and Taylor. 

''Ten Lessons on Food Conservation,'^ special bulletin. 

United States Food Administration. 
The Fundamental Basis of Nutrition , Graham Lusk. 
Elements of Nutrition y Graham Lusk. 
Changes in the Food Supply, and Their Relation to 

Nutrition, Lafayette B. Mendel. 
Nutrition and Growth, Lafayette B. Mendel. 
An Adequate Diet, Percy G. Stiles. 
''The Nutrition of the People,'' M. Rubner, special 

article. Journal of Home Economics, February, 1913. 
Food in Health and Disease, William Tibbies. 
Food and Dietetics, Robert Hutchinson. 
Nutrition and Diet, Winfield S. Hall. 
Feeding the Family, Mary Swartz Rose. 
A Laboratory Manual of Dietetics, Mary Swartz Rose. 
Food Products, Henry C. Sherman. 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition, Henry C. Sherman. 
Food Analysis, Leffmann and Beam. 
Pure Foods, John C. Olsen. 
How to Live, Fisher and Fisk. 
"Principles of Nutrition and Nutritive Value of Food," 

Atwater, Bulletin 142, United States Department 

of Agriculture. 
"Composition of American Food Materials," Atwater, 

Bulletin 28, United States Department of Agri- 
culture. 
Journal of Home Economics, American Home Economics 

Association, Baltimore, Md. (special articles). 
See also references listed at close of Chapter IV. 



VI 



PLANNING THE MEALS 

There is no royal road to food conservation. It can be 
accomplished only through sincere and earnest daily co- 
operation in the twenty-two million kitchens and at the 
twenty-two million dinner-tables of the United States. . . . 
This co-operation and service I ask of all in full confidence 
that America will render more for flag and freedom than 
king-ridden peoples surrender at compulsion. 

— Herbert Hoover. 



EALS must both feed and please. 
A good meal is that which supplies the 
right foods in the most wholesome and 
attractive form, without waste, and at 
the lowest cost — including labor, fuel for cook- 
ing, as well as the money spent for the food itself. 
In addition to this, to-day — during the critical 
period through which we are now passing, a good 
meal must not only meet these requirements, but 
in its planning and preparation the special food 
needs of the world must never once be forgotten. 
Under more normal conditions it was not diffi- 
cult to provide good meals. Under the changed 




PLANNING THE MEALS 75 

and new conditions which have been gradually 
creeping up upon us, culminating in the great 
home and world food problem now confronting 
us, the most careful thinking every step of the 
way is required — intelligent, clever planning, wise 
purchasing, good, skilfully managed cooking, at- 
tractive, happy service. 

Of these steps, the first, perhaps, that of plan- 
ning the meals, requires the most thought, for 
we can no longer provide good meals except 
through the understanding application of the 
food facts assembled in the preceding chapter. 
It is the only way to give every one the best and 
the most for the least; to play fair, as it were, to 
every interest — home, coimtry, self. Fortunately, 
this is not really as difficult as it may sometimes 
seem. In order to feed wisely, economically, and 
patriotically it is not necessary, literally, to weigh 
and measure every meal. We could not if we 
would. Scientific menu-building means, bluntly, 
only that we should become so familiar with the 
most important food facts that we are able to 
reduce this knowledge to common sense, habit, 
or second nature for daily practice, and use it, 
technically, as a checking system, whenever 
special need demands. 

If the family is dissatisfied, if there are doctor's 
bills, if children are fretful or white, if we are 
spending more money for food than the family 



^G FOOD AND FREEDOM 

budget allows, then cold science must come to 
our rescue until we can find the cause of the 
trouble, and a remedy. If there is no trouble — 
if the family is well and happy, if there is neither 
waste nor extravagance, if the meals appear with 
little effort, if we know how to substitute foods 
equally good to take the place of those denied 
for any reason, because of poverty, scarcity, 
crop failures — then, although we may not realize 
it, we are feeding scientifically. 

Briefly reviewed, from the facts outlined in 
Chapter V, we now know: 

That the food elements include proteins, fats, 
carbohydrates, certain ash or mineral constitu- 
ents, small but significant amounts of accessory 
factors, water, and bulk; that these various 
principles act as fuel, repair, growth, and regu- 
lating material for the body, and are present 
in varying proportions in natural foods; that 
they are all needed by every normal, active 
body, the exact proportions of each element, 
and the total amount of nourishment depend- 
ing largely on the age, sex, size of an individual, 
and the amount of work to be accomplished in 
a day; that this nourishment must be supplied 
from a variety of foods, and that quality, di- 
gestibility, proper cooking, flavor, relish, ap- 
pearance are all part of the complete dietetic 
value of any food. 

Moreover, we have learned and must remember: 



PLANNING THE MEALS ^^ 

That the market price of food in no way deter- 
mines the nutritive value; that, for practical 
purposes, the nutritive value of a food is best 
measured according to the number of calories 
it contains ; that some foods — weight for weight 
— contain many more calories than other foods; 
that every individual requires a certain, vary- 
ing number of calories in the course of twenty- 
four hours; and that by understanding these 
two facts it is possible to feed a family well on 
a certain sum of money, when, without this 
knowledge, the same family might be poorly 
fed on twice that sum. 

But, valuable as the calorie method of house- 
keeping may be, in our enthusiasm to make every 
bit of purchased nourishment count high, we 
must not overlook the fact that the number of 
calories required must be totaled from the proper 
combination, cooking, and serving of all the re- 
quired nutritive elements. 

Meals for a week might be so arranged that they 
would provide the correct number of calories, 
and yet not supply the necessary range of car- 
bohydrates, fats, proteins, the necessary mineral 
matter, the peculiarly necessary accessory fac- 
tors. In order to satisfy his curiosity a physician 
lived on nothing but sugar for a month; at the 
end of the month he died.^ The necessary calo- 
ries were all there in number — but not in kind. 
Some sugar may be desirable for children, but 
children who eat their quota of calories in the 

^ C/. Lusk, Fundamental Basis of Nutrition^ p. i6. 
6 



78 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

form of candy or cheap cake have no appetite 
left for the other nutritive elements needed by 
the body, and trouble follows. Again, meals 
might supply all the calories, including all the 
needed elements, and yet be so unattractive in 
food selection, combination, cooking, flavor, 
or service that they would not tempt, and to that 
extent would not nourish properly. 

To supply all the needed nutritive elements, 
properly balanced, in wholesome, appetizing com- 
binations, for the money allowed by the family 
budget, without unnecessary labor, and without 
ever once forgetting our part in the bigger food 
and feeding issue of the world, is no small problem 
in itself. The only way to solve it is through the 
kind of meals we plan. 

Family needs, season, local food supply, prac- 
tical conditions or ideals of living, and the sum 
of money allowed by the family budget are all 
important considerations in determining the type 
of meals served : 

A meal may consist of one, two, or more foods 
served as separate dishes, or it may consist of 
several foods combined in one dish. Simple meals, 
yet served without loss to any member of the family 
of the nourishment and happiness which is due, 
are not only now necessary, but rapidly becom- 
ing popular as their true worth is recognized. 

Each meal should be considered in relation to the 
other meals of the day or week, and every group 



PLANNING THE MEALS 79 

and type of food represented, in some form, in the 
course of a day's feeding — some carbohydrate, some 
fat {for fuel), some protein, some mineral matter (for 
body building and repair), some regulating material, 
some bulk or waste, some raw food, some hard food. 
The simplest way to insure this is to serve as much 
variety as possible; not necessarily at one meal, but 
in the course of a day — or even the week. In this 
way — and excepting definite over- or under-feeding 
— the proper balance of the needed elements will 
be more or less automatically supplied. ^ Few 
dishes at one meal, and varied meals is a good rule. 

Variety must not be confused with elaboration. 
Variety, in connection with meals, is only in- 
tended to mean that, as far as practical, we 
should make use of all the wholesome foods 
wisely provided by nature, and so avoid possible 
harmful effects of a narrow or one-sided diet. 
Moderate, varied feeding is a safeguard against 
eating too much or too little of any one food ma- 
terial or element. Variety, also, prevents loss 
of appetite through monotony. 

Since dinner is the most important meal, includ- 
ing, as it normally does, at least half of the daily 
food required, it should be planned first, and the 
balance of the nourishment required then divided, 
approximately, between breakfast and lunch or 
supper. Moreover, the food served at dinner will 
largely determine the kind of food needed for 
breakfast and supper or lunch. 

Not more than one food or dish rich in protein — 
meat, fish, eggs, beans, cheese (when used as a main 

^ See chap, v, pp. 69, 70. 



8o FOOD AND FREEDOM 

dish) — should be served at one meal; it is better, 
perhaps, in a majority of cases — particularly for 
adults who do not need food for body growth — to 
serve only one ^'protein-rich'' food a day, and to 
have one or two entirely '^ meatless" days a week. 
There is protein enough in bread, cereals, milk, 
nuts to supply what may be needed by the body 
on those days when ''meats" are omitted entirely. 
At every meal either fruit in some form, or a green 
vegetable, should be served as regulating material. 
"Fuel foods" — breads, cereals, potatoes, sweets — 
served as required will supply the balance of the 
nourishment. Some "color" and "flavor" should 
also be included in every meal. 

All meals which must cover the feeding of both 
children and grown people require special thought 
and most careful planning. Very young children 
must, of course, be specially provided for; they 
require different food, served at different times and 
in different quantities. ^ School boys and girls also 
require careful, regular feeding; they need, urgently, 
the food materials which growth and development 
are constantly exacting, and can use more food — 
although it must be wisely selected — than adults. ^ 

All children require easily digested foods that are 
not stimulating or highly seasoned. Children re- 

1 For advice and practical help, see: 

"Food for Young Children," Farmers' Bulletin 717, 
United States Department of Agriculture. 

Also, Feeding the Family, Rose, chaps, v, vi, vii. 

2 Feeding the Family, Rose, chap. ix. 
Nutrition and Diet, Hall, chap. xi. 

"School Lunches," Farmers' Bulletin 712, United States 
Department of Agriculture. 



PLANNING THE MEALS 8i 

quire particularly the elements of growth found 
in fresh foods, milk, eggs, real butter, cream; also 
fresh fruits and green vegetables, well-cooked 
cereals, and well-baked, dry breads; they should 
not have tea or coffee, fried foods, or pastry. 

A quart of pure, whole milk a day is a safe and 
wise fotmdation for a child's diet through and even 
beyond the twelfth year; it insures ^'balanced 
protein," as well as lime for body-building, and 
the desired amount of butter fat; this milk may 
be taken as a beverage or in combination with 
cereals, in cream soups or in simple desserts. 
If this amount is not practical for any reason, 
at least a pint, if possible, should be provided. 
A quart, however, is particularly necessary for 
children under six years. (See chap. iv. pp. 46-49.) 

Unless the value of a careful diet is recognized, 
one can scarcely expect a child to grow into 
creditable manhood or womanhood. The un- 
happy results of irregular habits and poor food 
are not always apparent at once, but the hurt 
of unwise feeding is bound to come — some day, 
just as surely as the health and strength and joy 
from proper feeding are also bound to come. 

Fruit, cereal, milk or cream, bread in some form, 
with coffee or milk or cocoa, is always a good break- 
fast. More or less of this, or selections from this, 
may be eaten, according to need. Eggs or fish may 
be added in the case of growing boys and girls 
where special protein nourishment is required, or 
sometimes in cases where an active day begins early 
in the morning, with heavy work to be accomplished 



82 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

out of doors before noon. Dishes combining cereal 
and eggs — such as oatmeal muffins or spoon corn- 
bread — are often practical and economical. 

Nourishing sandwiches with lettuce, or fresh fruit, 
served with tea, milk, cocoa, or a fruit beverage 
make a good lunch or supper. A cream or bean 
soup, or chowder, with rolls and butter, is a good 
substitute — with fruit and a cookie added for fun 
and a relish. Salad, with biscuits or muffins, fol- 
lowed by a light dessert, offers other possibilities. 

Meat or fish, one or two green vegetables, one 
starchy vegetable, -bread and butter, and a simple 
dessert are normally the rule for a good dinner. For 
economy, such combination dishes as stews, soy 
beans and rice, samp and cheese, with coarse bread 
and butter, followed by salad or a fruit pudding or 
dessert, may be substituted. 

Soup is sometimes desirable, but not essential; 
if the dinner is substantial, and soup is served, it 
should be a thin, clear soup; thick soups can be 
so made and served that they furnish complete 
meals in themselves. 

A dessert should be estimated as part of the nour- 
ishment of a meal, not as an extra that does not 
count. A substantial dinner should be followed 
by a very light dessert — such as fresh fruit, fruit 
salad, or a simple ice. A light dinner may be 
completed with a nourishing dessert — such as 
rice pudding, custard, fruit shortcake, steamed 
raisin pudding; this is frequently an economical 
method of ^'stretching" a dinner somewhat lack- 
ing in quantity or nourishment. 



PLANNING THE MEALS 83 

A dinner of two or three courses, properly planned 
and nicely served, can supply all the food and 
esthetic satisfaction required; more courses than 
this are usually unnecessary, and frequently im- 
ply overfeeding. 

In planning meals the following system may 
be helpful: 

I. Consider family needs: 

Number in family, age of each, normal weight, 
activity, physical condition. 

Estimate approximately total amount of food 
required daily. ^ 

Note type of food and dishes — according to 
individual need, and season of the year — best 
fitted to supply this required amount of food: 

Note what staple or essential foods are re- 
quired; allow, if possible, one quart of milk a 
day for each child, and from one-half to one 
pint for each adult; do not exceed 3 ounces 
of fat, and approximately 2 ounces of sugar per 
capita; ^ use a variety of flours and cereals. 

Do not overlook the importance of fresh food, 
or some raw food, and the general regulating 
value of fruits and green vegetables. 

With some hot weather exceptions, at least 
one hot dish at a meal is desirable. 

^ See chap, v, pp. 62-71. 

2 See The Food Problem, Kellogg and Taylor, chaps, v, 
vi, vii. 



84 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Do not use the same food twice at one meal. 

Food eaten between meals should be estimated 
as part of the regular allowance. 

2. Consider the food supply: 

Be readily familiar with the composition of all 
common foods, so that if certain needed foods 
are not available, others, equally good, may be 
substituted. 

Note all food on hand, before purchasing; note 
what additional food may be required. 

Note what foods are seasonable, easily avail- 
able, or abundant. 

Note what local foods are available — in the 
garden, in a neighbor's garden, in the town, in 
the state; remember the wild greens — dande- 
lion, cress, sorrel, etc. 

Note what foods are scarce or restricted, and 
must be spared because of world needs; note 
what substitutes can be used. 

3. Consider the cost of food: 

Determine what foods most readily available 
for the money which may be spent (the sum al- 
lowed for food by the family budget) will best 
satisfy family needs; select these foods. 

Calculate cost of food not only in relation to 
market prices, but in relation to nourishment 
obtained, digestibility, proportion of edible 
material, time required for preparation. 



PLANNING THE MEALS 85 

Balance the cost and value of packaged foods 
against bulk foods ; raw, against ready-cooked ; 
home-made bread against bakers': in-season 
foods against out-of -season, etc. 

. Determine type of meals: 

That will best serve family needs. 

That are appropriate for the season. 

That will permit foods selected to be served to 

the best advantage — all interests considered, 

health, convenience, and an attractive table. 

, Plan meals for a week in advance: 

Write these down on cards, to be filed in a 
cabinet, or in a loose-leaf notebook. When prac- 
tical, this is the. wisest and most profitable way 
to manage; it prevents confusion, saves money, 
also time in marketing and cooking, and insures 
better meals and greater variety. Menus prov- 
ing satisfactory may be kept for repetition or 
reference: unsatisfactory menus may be dis- 
carded. 

Prepare different types of menus for different 
needs — school-luncheon menus, picnic menus, 
quickly prepared dinners, fuel-saving menus, 
cold weather menus, menus for special occasions, 
etc. 

Make lists of suitable combinations of foods. ^ 

^ For suggestions, see : 

Every Day Menu Book, S. T. Rorer. 

New Cook Book, S. T. Rorer. 

How to Cook and Why, Condit and Long, chap. xiv. 

Feeding the Family, Rose, chap. xii. 



86 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Keep a list of new dishes or new foods discovered 
from time to time. '^Surprises'' prevent monot- 
ony and sustain interest in meals. 

Keep selective food lists on hand — meat-sub- 
stitute dishes, breads without wheat, desserts 
without sugar, etc. 

6. Do personal marketing: 

Avoid ordering by telephone; pay cash; carry 
food home; accept only reliable packaged goods 
which can be guaranteed; try new foods; when 
buying periv-hables, do not buy more than can 
be used to advantage; when practical, buy 
staples for a definite period in advance — this 
saves time, deliveries, inconvenience, money. 
Do not be ashamed to buy carefully. 

SELECTIVE FOOD LISTS 
To Spare Wheat — Serve 

Barley Bread Barley Scones 

Boston Brown Bread Bran Fruit Gems 

Buckwheat Cakes Buckwheat Muffins 
Corn-breads and Muffins Com Griddle Cakes 

Corn-Rye Gems Corn Waffles 

Com- Wheat Bread Date-Rye Muffins 

Hominy Popovers^ Nut Brown Bread 

Oatmeal Bread Oatmeal Cookies 

Oatmeal Muffins Oatmeal Scones 

Rice Gems Rye Bread 

Rye Meal Biscuits Rye Gingerbread 

Rye Liberty Cake Southern Spoon Bread 
Soy Meal Gems 



PLANNING THE MEALS 87 



To Spare Meat — Serve 



Beans, Baked 

Beans, Stewed 

Cheese Puree 

Chowders, Fish 

Cocoa and Chocolate 

Eggs, with Sauces 

Fish 

Lentil Soup 

Milk 

Nuts 

Nut and Cereal Dishes 



Bean Soups 
Cheese, with Cereals 
Cheese Souffle 
Chowders, Vegetable 
Eggs, with Cereals 
Eggs, with Vegetables 
Lentils, with Rice 
Local Game and Poultry 
Mushrooms, with Vegetables 
Nut Breads 



Omelets, with Cheese 
Omelets, with Vegetables Peanut Butter Sandwiches 
Vegetable Dinners 

To Spare Sugar — Serve 



Dried Fruits 
Date Puddings 
Figs 

Fresh Fruits 
Honey- 
Honey Frosting 
Maple Syrup 
Maple-sugar Candies 
Molasses 

Molasses Puddings 
Raisin Breads 
Raisin Puddings 



Dates 

Dates, with Cereals 
Fig Puddings 
Fruit-Nut Candies 
Honey Cakes 
Honey Pop-corn Balls 
Maple-sugar Cakes 
Maple-sugar Frosting 
Molasses Cakes 
Prune Puddings 
Raisin Cakes 
Stuffed Dates 



Vegetable Candies 

To spare fat, check all waste, use vegetable oils 
and nut butters in cooking, and do not serve fried 
foods or pastry. 

*'If each individual in the United States consumes 
a half-pint of milk per day, the amount of meat 
that may be regarded as necessary does not exceed 
two ounces per capita per day," 



88 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

CONSERVATION MENUS 

The following menus have been arranged, from time 
to time, to cover different needs. To get the most food 
satisfaction for the least outlay — in money, time, labor, 
fuel — has been the central thought in planning them. 
Since conditions in every home differ, however, these 
menus can be offered as sample suggestions only, with the 
hope that they may be of value in helping to solve some 
of the many housekeeping problems as they occur. Dishes 
similar in food value may be substituted for any dishes 
mentioned which may not be practical, or consistent 
with the food needs of the world as they develop. In the 
case of very simple meals, enough in quantity must be 
provided to make up for lack in variety. Young children 
must, of course, be specially provided for. 

WHEN PLANNING MEALS REMEMBER 

That milk is a valuable food, and cheap, because of its 
value, even when comparatively high in price; it requires 
no cooking; its use saves meat, fuel, time, and insures a 
good diet. From one pint to a quart of whole milk a day 
for each child, and from one-half to one pint for each 
adult, is a wise allowance. "Milk consumption in the 
United States should not fall below one pint of milk per 
capita per day." ^ A general demand for this amount would 
not only help to save the needed meat, but would increase 
the dairying business, which is most important, since the 
strength of a country can be measured by the size of its 
herds and the number of its milch-cows. 
"That cream should not be used as a luxury, nor should 
butter be used in cooking," until the milk supply is again 
adequate or abundant, or unless a fortunate local, personal 
supply might otherwise justify its use. 
That fresh fruit is a necessary food, and requires no 
cooking; its use saves sugar, fuel, time, and insures .a 
good diet; it also saves fats and wheat flour frequently 
used in making desserts not really needed. 

1 Kellogg and Taylor, The Food Problem, chap. vi. 



PLANNING THE MEALS 89 

SIMPLE BREAKFASTS 
Nourishing — Easily Prepared 



Stewed Figs and Raisins 

Hominy Popovers, Butter 

Coffee Milk 



Orange Apple Sauce 

Oatmeal, Top Milk 

Whole Wheat Rolls Coffee 

3 

Sliced Bananas, with Dates, Cream 

Shirred Eggs Toasted Muffins Marmalade 

Coffee Milk 

4 

Prunes and Barley, Top Milk 

Rye Bread Honey 

Coffee Milk 

5 

Peaches and Grapes 

Southern Corn Waffles, Maple Syrup 

Coffee Milk 

6 

Stewed Apricots 

Cornmeal Mush, Top Milk 

Date-Rye Muffins Coffee 

7 

Sliced Oranges 

Broiled Salt Mackerel Creamed Potatoes 

Toast Coffee Milk 



90 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



TEMPTING BREAKFASTS 
For Hot Mornings 

I 

French Toast, Strawberries 
Coffee Milk 



Chilled Orange Juice 
Molded Hominy Mush, Cream 
Blueberry Gems Coffee Milk 

3 

Wild Blackberries 

Rice Cakes, Honey 

Coffee Milk 

4 

Sliced Bananas, with Raspberries, Cream 
Graham Rolls Butter 

Coffee Milk 

5 

Cold Rice, Peaches, Top Milk 

Coffee Cinnamon Coffee Cake 

6 

Tomato Omelet Corn-Wheat Rolls 

Coffee 

7 

Berries Molded Wheat Cereal, Top Milk 

Raisin Brown Bread Coffee 

8 

Chilled Clabbered Milk, Cream 

Oatmeal Bread Marmalade 

Coffee 



PLANNING THE MEALS 91 



FOR CHILDREN WHO COME HOME AT NOON 

School-children who finish their work at twelve o'clock, 
and are free to enjoy the afternoon in active play out of 
doors, require a substantial meal in the middle of the day. 
When this can be provided, a light supper at night is all 
that is necessary. The following dinners are practical 
and wholesome, and may suggest possibilities: 



Vegetable Broth Oatmeal Bread 

Spinach, with Poached Eggs, Bacon Curls 

Compote of Rice, with Peaches 



Chicken Fricassee Noodles Diced Carrots 

Mixed Green Salad Barley Bread 

Pineapple Tapioca 

3 

SpHt Pea Soup Hard Rolls 

Celery, Apple and Lettuce Salad 

Chocolate Bread Pudding, Marshmallow Sauce 

4 

Cream of Carrot Soup, Croutons 

Panned Chicken Baked Bananas Celery 

Whole Wheat Bread Blackberry Jam 

5 

Cream of Salmon Soup 

Lima Bean Omelet Jacket Potatoes 

Fruit Rye Bread and Butter 

6 

Broiled Chopped Beef Baked Potato 

Creamed Onions Oven Dried Bread 

Zuiii Peach Pudding, Peach Syrup 



92 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

INEXPENSIVE TWO-COURSE DINNERS 



Black Bean Soup Rye Bread New Green Onions 
Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake, or Fruit Salad 



Oxtail Stew, with Noodles Dandelion Salad 

Fruit Come Again Cake 

3 

Calcutta Rice Asparagus, Melted Butter 

Quick Corn Sally 

Jellied Fruit, Custard Sauce 

4 
Baked Samp and Cheese 
Calico Salad Rye Muffins 

Frozen Strawberries Sponge Cake 

5 

Lentils and Rice Whole Wheat Bread 

Cabbage Salad Cheese Nut Balls 

Florida Ice Sugar Cookies 



Leek and Potato Soup 

Brown Bread Cottage Cheese 

Quick Apple Dumpling, Hard Sauce 

7 

Soy Bean Stew Rolls Celery 

Little Bread Puddings, Raspberry Meringue 

8 

Steamed Sea Mussels or Clams 

Bermuda Salad Cheese Oatmeal Bread 

Blueberry Shortcake, or Rice Pudding, Fruit Sauce 



PLANNING THE MEALS 93 

FUEL ECONOMY MENUS 

Fuel saving is of just as great national importance as 
the right kind of food sparing. To save fuel in cooking, 
do not forget all the possibilities of " fireless-oven " 
cooking; do not forget that complete dinners may be 
cooked over one burner by using a two- or three-story 
steamer; do not forget the value of the fireless cooker 
for overnight cooking — particularly for cereals, beans, 
vegetables, stewed fruits, or a piece of meat for "cold 
cuts"; do not forget to bake breads, puddings, cakes in 
small pans; do not forget to cook enough at one time to 
cover several meals; do not forget the many foods that 
require little or no cooking — fresh fruits, dates, figs, 
raisins, nuts, salads, milk, cocoa or chocolate, cheese 
dishes, eggs, fish, cream soups. 

Cold Weather Dinners 



Chicken Casserole, with Vegetables 

Celery Grape Jam Ripe Olives 

Baked Stuffed Apples, Marshmallow Sauce 



Fireless Flank Steak, with Spaghetti 

Graham Bread Spiced Crabapples 

Fruit Cocoanut Jumbles 

3 

Cream of Scallop Soup 
Rice and Vegetable Salad Rye Bread 

7 Orange Jelly Spiced Oat Cookies 



94 FOOD AND FREEDOM 
Hot Weather Dinners 



Jellied Fowl Rice Salad, with Escarole 

Corn-Wheat Rolls Orangeade 

Cantaloupe Surprise 



Panned Fish Parsley Potatoes 

Sliced Tomatoes and Cucumbeis, French Dressing 

Cheese Wafers 

Strawberry Mousse or Custard 



Hot Clam Broth 

Debutante or Summer Salad Badey Rolls 

Chilled Peaches Cookies, or Brown Bread Ice Cream 

4 

Cream of Carrot Soup 
Clam Omelet Beet Greens Peanut Bread 
Watermelon 



5 

Fruit Cocktail 

Creamed Chicken, with Mushrooms New Peas 

Corn on the Cob 

Chocolate Junket Liberty Cake 



Spinach Florentine 

Iced Coffee Tiny Tea Biscuit 

Shredded Pineapple, with Bananas 



PLANNING THE MEALS 95 

A Few Luncheon Suggestions 



Tomat©-Cheese Rarebit Toast 

Peach Salad Wafers 



Oatmeal Crackers, Milk 
Dates or Berries 

3 

Cream of Turnip Soup, Crotitons 
Cereal-Prune Bread Apples 

4 

Food-Fruit Salad 
Hot Cocoa Brown Bread Sandwiches 

5 

Split Pea Soup 

Oven Dried Bread, Butter 

Fruit Maple Sugar 

6 

Chicken Curry Soup Potato Bread 

Bean Salad, French Dressing 

Figs Apples 



96 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

WHEN CARRIED TO SCHOOL IN A BASKET 

Let the school lunch be easily digested and nourishing. 
Give enough, but not too much. A brown, whole- wheat 
or cereal-bread sandwich, with good butter, chopped beef, 
minced chicken or lamb, ground nuts, or cream cheese 
and a lettuce leaf for the filling, with fruit, and a hard 
cooky or small piece of sweet chocolate to satisfy the 
desire for something sweet, make the best luncheon. 
Coffee, tea, pie, rich cake, cheap candy, and pickles 
should not be given. Variety makes the luncheon in- 
teresting and appetizing. Keep sandwiches moist by 
wrapping them in wax paper. Covered paper cups are 
excellent for holding salads or a baked custard or some 
fruit jelly. Milk, hot soup, cocoa, or malted milk when 
practical is sometimes a good addition to the sandwich 
luncheon. 

I 

Chopped Beef Sandwiches, with Lettuce 

Apple Honey Cookies 

2 

Cream Cheese and Nut Sandwiches (Brown Bread) 
Peach Butter Sandwiches Grapes 

3 

Raisin and Fig Paste Sandwiches 
Apple Rice Pudding 

4 

Minced Chicken and Celery Sandwiches 

Orange Sweet Chocolate 

5 

Peanut Butter Sandwiches (Graham Bread) 
Marmalade Sandwiches Ripe Pear 

6 

Thin Com Bread and Butter 
Hot Malted Milk Apple Maple Sugar 



PLANNING THE MEALS 97 

FOR THE WOMAN AT HOME 

The housekeeper alone at home, whose work does not 
take her beyond the limits of stove and ice-box, also 
faces the problem of a proper meal at noon. Here the 
difficulty lies, however, in lack of appetite rather than 
lack of good, available food. A monotonous morning, 
with little opportunity for refreshment in the open air, 
has robbed the body of its vitality, leaving one worn, but 
with no very keen desire for food. Neglect is easy. A 
cup of strong tea is hastily swallowed while standing, 
and the " dull -headachy " afternoon follows. Luncheon 
with a chair, a plate with a napkin under it, and a 
flower seems out of the question. There are, how- 
ever, many quickly prepared food drinks, and other simple 
dishes calling for no more effort than the "tea and bread" 
luncheon, but supplying the body with just the right kind 
of attractive nourishment required. A list of such dishes 
kept on hand, so that the right food might be quickly pre- 
pared at the psychological moment, would double and 
triple the working value of the afternoons — and inci- 
dentally substitute happiness for headaches ,in many 
homes. 

I 

Cheese Puree Toast 

Sliced Tomato 

2 

French Omelet Buttered Roll 

Fruit 

3 

Egg Lemonade 

Raisin Bread and Butter 

4 , -'{ 

Iced Chocolate \ 

Bran Wafers Peaches 



98 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

TRAY SUPPERS 

For the Porch or Fireside 
« 

I 

Sweetbread Salad Sandwich Rolls 
Orangeade Fruit Jumbles 

2 

Tomato Bisque in Cups 

Oatmeal-Cheese Biscuit 

Stuffed Dates or Nut Brittle 

3 

Assorted Sandwiches, with Lettuce 

Cantaloupe or Frozen Peaches 

Com Cup Cakes 

4 

Marmalade Nut Bread Sandwiches 

Iced Chocolate 

• 

5 

Peanut Scones Calico Salad 

Hot Cocoa 

6 

Banana Salad Buttered Graham Rolls 

Currant Punch Cup Cakes 

7 

Assorted Sandwiches 

Lemon Milk Sherbet Sponge Cake 

8 

Oatmeal Crackers or Whole Wheat Bread, Milk 

Sliced Peaches or Baked Apples 



PLANNING THE MEALS 99 

GOOD DINNERS FOR LATE SUMMER 

When the Garden Is Overburdened with Its 
Treasure 



Chilled Cantaloupe 

Stuffed Peppers, Cream Sauce Com 

Garden Salad, Russian Dressing 

New Apple Cake Cheese 



Cream of Lettuce Soup 

Creole Omelet Corn-on-the-Cob 

Orchard Salad 

Apple Sauce Cake Fruit Punch 

3 

Tomato and Cucumber Cocktail 

Trench Succotash Potato Bread 

Peaches Fruit Cookies 

4 

Corn-cut-from-the-Cob 

Cold Boiled Lobster 

Sliced Tomatoes, Chicory, Mayonnaise 

Steamed Blackberry Dumpling Coffee 

5 

Spinach, with Diced Carrots 

String Beans, with Chipped Beef 

Potatoes in Their Jackets 

Green Plum Cake 

6 

Cream of Cauliflower Soup 

Tomatoes, with Crabflakes, Mayonnaise 

War Bread Butter 

Pears, Delicious 



loo FOOD AND FREEDOM 



COLD-WEATHER "SOUP MEALS" 

When we are looking for some one dish that will, at 
a minimum cost, both nourish and please, the thick 
soup or broth offers many possibilities, and the knowl- 
edge o/ its proper making and use is a valued asset. In 
the large family, where the necessary generous providing 
furnished meat trimmings, vegetable water, and interest- 
ing left-overs in abundance, it is frequently possible to 
put together a real soup without going to one's purse for 
assistance. Briefly, to get the best out of your soup-pot, 
utilize all food bits that are clean and wholesome, cook 
the soup by some method that will use as little fuel as 
possible, and serve it with an ingenious accompaniment so 
that all the required food elements may be properly repre- 
sented. Ground smoked meat, or a sliced sausage or hard- 
cooked egg, with a garnish of dry toast, will add flavor, 
attractiveness, and still more nourishment to the dried 
pea and bean soups. The food value of the cream vege- 
table soups is increased if the water in which the vegetables 
have been cooked is consistently used in combination 
with the milk and the chopped or strained vegetable it- 
self. If a spoonful of whipped cream, when such a luxury 
is available, is added to each portion, or, for variety, a 
slice of toast with melted cheese, or toasted cheese crack- 
ers, the soup at once becomes a better food. Rolls or 
crackers made of coarse flour, served with a cheese or nut 
soup, break the concentration and blandness of these 
dishes. As a rule, small, warm, hard rolls, breadsticks, 
or toast are more appetizing with soup than cold sliced 
bread. 



PLANNING THE MEALS loi 

Appropriate for Dinner, Luncheon or Supper, 
According to the Needs of Your Family 



Cheese Puree 

Graham Gems Butter 

Tomato Jelly Salad, with Cabbage 

Baked Apple Dumplings 



Black Bean Soup Pulled Bread 

Celery and Apple Salad 
Steamed Fig Pudding, Foamy Sauce 

3 
Lentil-Sausage Soup 
Rye Rolls Butter 

Orange and Date Salad 
Pumpkin Custard Coffee 

4 

Fish Chowder 

Pilot Crackers Butter 

Escarole Salad Cottage Cheese 

Maple Custards Oatmeal Cookies 

5 

Chicken Curry Soup 

Shamrock Rolls Butter 

Beet and String Bean Salad 

Corn Waffles Maple Syrup Coffee 

6 

%)inach, Marmite Corn- Wheat Rolls 

Potato, Cress, and Egg Salad 

Quince Tapioca, Ice Cream Sauce 



102 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Some Spring Dinners 



Cream of Cucumber Soup 

Shad, Creole New Potatoes 

Green Onions and Radishes 

Popover Puddings, Strawberry Sauce 



Potato and Onion Bisque 

Broiled Squab Asparagus 

Spring Salad Anchovy Toast 

Rhubarb Pudding Coffee 

3 

Panned Chicken 

Rice Bermuda Onions 

Dandelion Salad Wafers 

Maple Ice Cream Lace Cookies 

4 

Spinach Beauregard Cold Sliced Tongue 

Parsley Potatoes 

Pineapple-Strawberry Shortcake 



Ready-made Company Luncheons 

I 

Italian Spaghetti, or Welsh Rarebit 

Lettuce Salad, French Dressing Wafers 

Grape Juice Punch Fig Cookies 

2 

Tomato Bisque Croutons 

Sliced Tongue Asparagus Tip Salad 

Wafers Cheese Balls Jam 

Iced Chocolate Sugar Cookies 



PLANNING THE MEALS 103 

"VERY EASY" DINNERS 
For the Small Family without Help 

I 

Oven Panned Smelts Baked Potatoes 

Romaine and Bermuda Onion Salad 

D^tes Oatmeal Wafers Orangeade 

2 
Spinach, Scrambled Eggs, Mushroom Garnish 
Rye Meal Biscuit Butter 

Fruit Hot Tea 

3 

Turkey Rice Soup, with Celery 

Hominy Popovers Butter 

Pineapple Salad 

4 

Cheese Rarebit Toast 

Shredded Cabbage Salad, Tomato Garnish 

Banana Charlotte 

5 

Creamed Scallops and Shrimps 

Lettuce Salad, Russian Dressing Rolls 

Dutch Coffee Ring Hot Coffee 

6 

Creole Fish Chowder 

Corn Muffins Butter 

Prunes, with Chopped Nuts Cream 

7 

Broiled Chicken 
Green Peas Bananas, Southern Style 

Fruit Liberty Cake 



I04 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

FESTIVE MENUS 

Patriotically, we know that it is our duty to be wise 
and economical in the expenditure of every material re- 
source, as well as of our own time and energy; but, 
patriotically, is it not also our duty to put just as much 
fermendng joy into the world now as we possibly can? 
Home fun and parties there must be of some kind — or 
the normal balance of living would be destroyed; what- 
ever refreshments are served, however, should be planned 
with the utmost judgment, and made to take the place, 
whenever practical, of one of the regular meals, so that 
a "fourth" meal shall not be served. 

For the Picnic Lunch 



Egg, Olive, and Lettuce Sandwiches 
Fruit Come Again Cake 



Rye Tea Biscuit Sandwiches 

(with minced-ham and cress filling) 

Lace Cookies Lemonade Ripe Bananas 

3 

Cold Roasted Chicken 

Olives Green Onions 

Buttered Corn-Wheat Rolls 

Sponge Cake, with Fresh Strawberry Filling 

4 

Grilled Bacon Whole Wheat Bread 

Fig Rolls Hot Coffee 

Fruit 



PLANNING THE MEALS 105 

For Winter Holiday Evening Parties 

I 

Hot Chicken Broth in Cups 
Minced Celery and Pimento Sandwiches 
Chocolate Ice Cream Sponge Cake 

2 
Debutante Salad Graham Bread Sandwiches 
Frozen Rice Pudding, Strawberry Sauce . 
Assorted Cookies 

3 

Cress Sandwiches, Russian Mayonnaise 
Hot Cocoa Corn Cup Cakes 

4 

Cottage Cheese and Olive Sandwiches 

Apricot Jam Sandwiches, Nut Bread 

Grape Juice Punch 

5 

Oysters and Shrimps in the Chafing-dish 

Olive Sandwiches (Whole Wheat Bread) 

Hot Coffee Little Raisin Cakes 

6 
Turkey Salad 
Buttered Oatmeal Rolls 
Pineapple Sherbet . 

7 

Chicken Toast Patties 

Cress Sandwiches 

Nut Kisses Heart Cookies 

Currant Lemonade 

8 

Apple and Celery Salad, Cream Mayonnaise 

Peanut Biscuit Sandwiches 

Orange Ice 

Lace Cookies Sponge Cake 



io6 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



My America" Christmas Dinners 



Tomato Bouillon in Cups 

Rye Breadsticks 

Roast Duck, Hominy Stuffing 

Spinach Apple Sauce 

Conservation Plum Pudding 

Ginger Punch 



Fruit Cocktail 
Roast Turkey 



Potato Puffs 
Celery 



Creamed Onions 
Quince Jelly 



Mince Tarts 
Coffee 



Fish in Aspic, Tartar Sauce 

Broiled Guinea-hens Sweet Potatoes 

Elderberry Jelly 

Lettuce and Apple Salad 

Frozen Rice Pudding 

Fruit 
Coffee Mints 



PLANNING THE MEALS 107 

The Thanksgiving Dinner 



Cream of Spinach Soup, Crotitons 

Chicken Casserole, with Vegetables 

Spiced Windfalls Candied Sweet Potatoes 

Thanksgiving Pudding 



Rabbit Fricassee 

Browned Hominy Squares Grape Jam 

Celery and Lettuce Salad 

Cheese Wafers 

Meatless Mince Pie 



3 

Halves of Grapefruit 

Roast Turkey Bananas, Southern Style 

Black Currant Jelly Curled Celery 

Cheese 

Ginger Fruit Tarts 

Coffee 



io8 FOOD AND FREEDOM 
Reception Menu 

FOR the small home WEDDING 

Chicken Salad Sandwiches 

Ripe Olive Sandwiches 

Wild Strawberry Ice Cream 

Cocoanut Kisses 

Bride's Cake 

Fruit Punch 

A Pansy Luncheon 

Grapefruit Cocktail 

Panned Chicken 

New Peas and Tiny Currants 

Small Fresh Rolls 

Olives Grape Jelly 

Frozen Bananas, Orange Sauce 

Little Cakes 

Coffee 

For this luncheon, make the most of the pansies in all 
their variegated loveliness — white, purple, brown, yellow 
— and let no other color but a background of green and 
white mar the sunshiny-gold and purple-lavender sweet- 
ness of your table. Cover the table with a pure white 
cloth, use small white tea-napkins, green-and-white or 
white-and-gold china, and place a small, low, white- 
enameled basket filled with pansies and maidenhair in 
the center. Additional small baskets, similar in design, 
may be filled with white cream mints, topped with a 
pansy, tied with a lavender ribbon, and used as individual 
favors. 



PLANNING THE MEALS 109 

REFERENCES: 

The Food Problem, Kellogg and Taylor. 

''Ten Lessons on Food Conservation/^ Special Bulle- 
tin, United States Food Administration. 

Feeding the Family , Mary Swartz Rose. 

Every Day Menu Book, Sarah Tyson Rorer. 

New Cook Book, Sarah Tyson Rorer. 

Lessons in Food Values and Economical Menus, Alice 
Bradley. 

The Cost of Food, Third Edition, Ellen H. Richards. 

Food and Flavor, Henry T. Finck. 

''Planning and Serving Meals, ^' Home Economics Bul- 
letin, Iowa State College, Ames, Iowa. 

*'Food for School Boys and Girls, ^' Mary Swartz Rose, 
Bulletin No. 23, Teachers College, New York, 
N. Y. 

"How to Select Foods,'' Farmers' Bulletin 808. 

"How to Select Foods," Farmers' Bulletin 817. 

"How to Select Foods," Farmers' Bulletin 824. 

"Food for Young Children," Farmers' Bulletin 717. 

"School Lunches," Farmers' Bulletin 712. 

Note. — The above, as well as other valuable food bul- 
letins, may be obtained free of cost, or for a nominal sum, 
by addressing the Division of Publications, or the Super- 
intendent of Documents at the Government Printing 
Office, United States Department of Agriculture, Wash- 
ington, D. C. 

Foods and Their Adulteration y Third Edition, Harvey 
W. Wiley. 

See also references listed at close of Chapters III and IV. 
8 



VII 



COOKING THE MEALS 



II 


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If women are once more to become home-makers . . . 
we must put it within the strength and abihty of the 
average woman to do the work of her home happily and 
comfortably. — The Craftsman Magazine. 

ND next we are faced with the work of 
preparing these meals so carefully 
planned. And it is here, in front of 
the kitchen stove, where so many lose 
their faith, their hope — and falter — for the days 
do come when it is hard, very hard, to make our 
cabbages look like roses; when it is hard to grip, 
and ''keep your grip." These are the days when 
we must say, with the old philosopher, " This, too, 
shall pass," and begin again. 

Because its repetition is so consistent, and so 
endless, cooking forms the biggest part of all 
household work, and since approximately only 
six per cent, of the twenty-two million homes in 
America have outside assistance, the problem is 



COOKING THE MEALS in 

necessarily one that affects the personal daily 
life of the great majority of housekeepers. 

Preparing the meal for a family is something 
which may take an hour or two out of the day, 
or it may take all day. It depends so much on 
what we know, what kind of a philosophy we 
may have, and how we organize our knowledge and 
apply the philosophy. A good cook is one who 
spends little time in the kitchen, yet, through 
some magic management, serves very perfect 
meals. While the size of a family is an important 
factor to be reckoned with, and may materially 
increase or decrease the time required for cer- 
tain detail operations in connection with the 
cooking and serving of meals, it should not 
affect to any great degree the time required 
for preparing the food for the day as a whole. 
Although the accomplishment which combines 
good cooking with little effort calls for both 
training and clear, reasonable thinking, the 
results are so gratifying, have come to be so 
important to the world, and are, from every 
point of view, so liberating that they are worth 
striving for. 

We cook our food because, broadly, it is nec- 
essary to do so. 

Cooking makes many foods more digestible — such 
as starchy foods, cereals, many vegetables, some 
fruits, and the connective tissue of meat. 



112 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Cooking develops or modifies flavor, making many 
foods more palatable, and makes increased variety 
and attractiveness, as well as many economies in 
the use of food, possible. 

Cooking is a means of sterilizing food, when this is 
desirable or necessary. 

DiflEerent methods of cooking are commonly 
practised — boiling, stewing, steaming, toasting, 
broiling, roasting, braising, baking, panning, sau- 
teing, frying — all of which serve many good ends 
in the preparation of food, although certain meth- 
ods of cooking are better for some foods than 
others. To make food more wholesome and more 
acceptable is the principle underlying all good 
cooking. Any method that will accomplish this 
end without food waste, retaining as far as pos- 
sible all the original nutrients in the food, is a 
good method; other factors being equal, that 
requiring the least effort and time, combined 
with fuel economy, is always the better method, 
while food that is good without cooking is usually 
best served in that way — except where variety 
may be particularly needed, or where cooking 
may prevent food waste. 

Cooking is a necessary, profitable, and en- 
nobling occupation up to the point of making 
food more wholesome and more acceptable. Be- 
yond this, when it reaches the point of spending 



COOKING THE MEALS 113 

the better part of the day converting clean, honest 
food into compHcated, over-elaborated dishes, 
which are neither wholesome nor digestible and 
are carelessly eaten in a few minutes, it is hardly 
profitable. When practised to the exclusion or 
neglect of other necessary thought and work — 
sacrificing, as it can, home happiness, health, even 
the wealth of the country — it is enslaving, and 
very rapidly deteriorates into that drudgery 
which many believe is its true and only role. 
In order to cook so that the work is a great health 
and happiness giving service, so that it enriches 
and does not exhaust, it must be understood 
and organized in the mind just as home-making 
as a whole must be understood and organized. 
Only in this way can cooking be reduced and 
simplified without sacrificing the pleasures of a 
delightful table to which every one is entitled, 
and without which life would mean very little, 
or paying for our freedom through the purchase 
of expensive food materials requiring little or no 
troublesome preparation to make them whole- 
some and palatable. 

The essentials of good, attractive, economical 
and easily managed cooking include: 

I. A knowledge of food materials, which covers: 

The chemical composition and digestibility of 
different foods, both raw and cooked. 



114 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The effect of heat, and varying degrees of heat, 
on different food principles and foods, as to 
digestibility, form, appearance, flavor. 

2. A knowledge of cooking methods, which covers: 

The best, simplest, and quickest methods of 
preparing foods previous to cooking. 

Example: Washing potatoes and cooking them 
without paring saves time, waste, 
and is desirable from a health stand- 
point. 

The processes of cooking, or practical methods 
of applying heat — boiling, baking, broiling, etc. 
— with ability to quickly determine which meth- 
ods, under certain conditions, will produce the 
best results with the least effort, in the least 
time, and with the greatest fuel economy. 

Standardization of cooking temperatures as far 
as practical; use of a thermometer, rather than 
variable, practical tests to determine temper- 
atures most desirable for cooking certain foods, 
or for obtaining certain desired results; this 
insures repeated successes, uniform results, and 
saves anxiety as well as wasted effort and food 
materials. 

Examples: Use an oven thermometer or indi- 
cator when baking; note what 
temperature produces best results 
— for bread, cake, rolls, etc. — and 
have oven heated to this tempera- 
ture when baking. 



COOKING THE MEALS 115 

Use a candy thermometer for 
syrups, candy-making, and boiled 
frostings. 

Use a thermometer — one register- 
ing as high as four hundred de- 
grees Fahrenheit — for testing deep 
fat for frying.^ 

Best methods of combining different materials, 
with a ready understanding of the effect of one 
ingredient on another, including resourcefulness 
in substituting one material for another accord- 
ing to need, economy or convenience, or desire. 

Example: Such as the use of sour milk and 

baking-soda in place of sweet milk 

and baking-powder, or chicken fat 

f in place of butter, or rye flour in 

place of wheat, etc. 

Accuracy in measuring ingredients, use of 
measuring cups and spoons, and some knowledge 
of proportions. 

Example: Two level tablespoonfuls fat, two 
level teaspoonfuls flour, and one 
cupful liquid is the rule for a good 
sauce; the fat used may vary ac- 
cording to convenience or desire, and 
the liquid according to flavor desired 
— the proportions remain the same. 

^See "Some Attempts to Standardize Oven Tempera- 
tures," M. B. Van Arsdale, Teachers College, New York, 
N. Y. 

Also, New Cook Book, Mrs. S. T. Rorer. 

Also, Boston Cooking- School Cook Book, F. M. Farmer. 



ii6 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Appreciation of types of cooking utensils best 
fitted for preparing or cooking certain foods. 

Examples: The use of glass baking-dishes to 
insure a brown undercrust for 
pastry or biscuits. 

For efficient results, mixing-bowls 
should be conical in shape, not 
flat on the bottom. 

The use of wooden spoons for mix- 
ing and stirring. 

3. Efficient working conditions: 
These cover: 
A well-planned, convenient, inspiring kitchen. 

Equipment and tools or cooking utensils that 
will facilitate work and save all unnecessary 
labor. 

A comfortable, washable, becoming kitchen 
uniform, including a cap, white stockings, and 
well-fitting, good-looking, low-heeled shoes. 

Every woman in the country is entitled to the 
best kitchen equipment and uniform that the 
work of her particular household demands. Any 
system of living that does not make this possible 
is unfair in the extreme; where the income of a 
home cannot afford right working conditions for 
the housekeeper, these should be provided for, in 
some way, by the state or community. 



COOKING THE MEALS 117 

4. Elimination of all unnecessary, elaborate cooking. 

5. Simplification of all necessary cooking, making as 
little work of this as possible, and keeping this work 
under control. The following suggestions, put into 
practice, can be most helpful : 

Have menus planned in advance; let these in- 
clude frequent ''one-dish'^ and ^' two-course'^ 
meals, ^ also include dishes requiring little or no 
cooking — fresh fruits, raisins, dates, figs, nuts, 
milk, cocoa, chocolate, cheese, salads, egg dishes, 
fish dishes, cream soups, sandwiches, gelatin, 
and frozen desserts. 

Plan an adaptable schedule of work fitted to 
particular home conditions, with greatly reduced 
work for Sundays, holidays, hot weather. ^ Plan 
'^cookless" meals for these days; ^'picnics'' and 
*' tray-suppers" save work and give pleasure. 

Do all kitchen work as far as possible before 

9 A.M. 

When cooking cereals, beans, vegetables, etc., 
cook enough at one time to cover several meals; 
serve in different forms. 

Use a fireless cooker for overnight cooking: 
cereals, beans, vegetables, stewed fruits, stews, 
a fowl or other piece of meat, may all be pre- 
pared in this way, when convenient, and much 
time and work during the day will be saved. 

^ See "Hot Weather Cooking Suggestions," on p. 253. 
Also, "Fuel-saving Menus," on pp. 93-94.- 



ii8 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

^'Oven dinners," ^'two-story" steamer dinners, 
the baking of breads and cakes in small pans — 
all save time and fuel. 

An '^emergency cupboard," stocked with ready- 
to-eat foods, frequently saves time and con- 
fusion. 

Form, arrangement, color, flavor, count high in 
food satisfaction, but cost little in time and 
money. 

Reliable '^ rules," ''tables," and ''foundation 
recipes" are more convenient and helpful than 
a confused mass of scattered, individual recipes. 
A good cook-book or set of recipes may be used 
as a guide or reference, but it is more efficient to 
work without constantly referring to a recipe. 

Enlist the co-operation of other members of the 
family. 

Fuels used for cooking include wood, coal, 
coke, kerosene oil, gas, electricity, and, for small 
quantity, cooking alcohol. While the use of coal 
may still be necessary in some localities, the coal 
stove or range for home cooking represents econ- 
omy in neither fuel nor labor. The proportion of 
coal used for generating the heat required for 
family cooking is extravagant, much of this heat 
is wasted, and the care of the stove is a burden. 
Gas, oil, and electricity are now the practical 



COOKING THE MEALS 119 

and popular fuels, with the latter, particularly, 
promising still further economy, relief, and satis- 
faction for the future. The great needs of the 
present — conservation of our national resources 
and freedom for the housekeeper — are definitely 
recognized in the construction of all the newer 
stoves in which these fuels are burned. 

These stoves have all been so perfected, in- 
cluding automatic operation in clever combina- 
tion with fireless ovens, with all unnecessary heat 
radiation carefully controlled, that cooking may 
be facilitated to a remarkable degree, and fuel 
economy correspondingly increased. At the same 
time, all quick-cooking methods — ^broiling, boil- 
ing, frying — are perfectly provided for. These 
stoves are, in addition, so constructed and finished 
that care and cleaning amount to very little com- 
pared with the old * ' stove-polishing ' ' days. Where 
fireless cooking is not otherwise provided for, a 
reliable one-, two-, or three-compartment cooker 
may stand, raised to a convenient height, near 
the range. Separate gas, oil, or coal water- 
heaters, operating at low cost, and in cases auto- 
matically, will supply the needed hot water. 

Since the use of more than one fuel is prac- 
ticable in almost all localities, and since each fuel 
may have certain advantages under certain condi- 
tions, an intelligent combination of fuels suggests 
the most satisfactory solution of the cooking 



I20 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

problem for many homes. These fuel combina- 
tions may be : 

Wood, coal, and gas. 
Coal and gas. 
Coal and oil. 
Coal and electricity. 
Oil and electricity. 
Gas and electricity. 

Local conditions and individual need or prefer- 
ence must determine the choice. With each one 
of these fuels or combinations some means of 
fireless cooking can be included, resulting in every 
possible cooking advantage: 

A warm kitchen in winter. 

A cool kitchen in summer. 

An attractive kitchen at all times. 

An abundant supply of hot water for the large 

family. 

Some special convenience for the small family. 

Some advantage for the housekeeper who is also a 

business woman outside the home. 

All degrees of heat for all methods of cooking. 

Always the maximum economy in fuel, time, and 

labor. 

Where the use of coal is desirable, the two- 
or three-fuel ranges are practical. Either coal or 
wood, in combination with either gas or kerosene 
oil, may be burned in the one range, thus provid- 
ing the needed heat for a cold kitchen in winter 



COOKING THE MEALS 121 

without a corresponding disadvantage during the 
summer months. In cases, both fuels may be 
burned in the one range at the same time, fur- 
nishing increased cooking capacity without re- 
quiring increased floor space. Again, under some 
conditions, instead of investing in one stove of 
generous capacity that fulfils every cooking need, 
it may be more convenient, satisfactory, and 
economical to have two small stoves of distinctly 
different types. A small electric range with a 
generous oven, for both baking and broiling, and 
a one- or two-burner oil-stove, supplemented with 
a device or two for table cooking — perhaps a 
chafing-dish and a coffee-pot — may give the acme 
of cooking comfort and pleasure. A small gas 
hot-plate, with a first-class portable oven and an 
electric table stove or grill, suggests another com- 
bination possibility. For the country home, an 
out-of-door camp stove, or an old-fashioned stone 
fireplace in which surplus wood may be burned, 
may give much pleasure and be most profitable 
at the same time. 

The advantages of fireless cooking must be 
neither undervalued nor overestimated. While 
the fireless cooker is a most useful device, and, in- 
telligently handled, can accomplish much — con- 
serving time, fuel, food — it should be used, more 
particularly, for those foods that would normally 
require long, slow cooking in covered containers, 



122 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

and for other methods of cooking where conven- 
ience or necessity demands. Fireless cooking is 
reallyamethod in itself, just as baking and broiHng 
are methods. The principle of successful fireless 
cooking lies in the fact that sufficient heat, both 
in quantity and in degree, must be introduced, and 
retained until the food is thoroughly cooked. A 
small quantity of food only partially heated 
through, and placed in a large container in a 
cooker, will not hold sufficient heat to accomplish 
satisfactory cooking. 

The all-metal box, alimiinum lined, with alum- 
inum containers, and insulated with mineral 
wool, is the most durable, and if properly handled 
should not rust, warp, or absorb odors. Very 
satisfactory small cookers may also be made at 
home.^ Any reUable fireless cooker should give 
good service if the following points are observed: 

Read carefully the descriptive circular and direc- 
tions which accompany every good cooker. 

Spend at least a week in learning how to use it. 
A certain amount of experimenting must be done 
before the best results can be obtained; reserve 
judgment until a cooker has been fairly tested. 

Do not force its use, nor expect it to accomplish the 
impossible. 

1 Directions may be obtained from the United States 
Department of Agriculture. 

See, also, Scott, Home Labor-saving Devices^ p. 39. 



COOKING THE MEALS 123 

Keep it scrupulously clean and dry at all times, 
and well aired when not in use. If the aluminum 
becomes discolored, clean with steel wool and a neu- 
tral soap. 

While table cooking is always delightful, since 
the advent of electricity it is now also recognized as 
a thoroughly practical convenience for the woman 
who does her own work. It is of special advan- 
tage, perhaps, for the small family, for the house- 
keeper who is also a business woman outside the 
home, and for use on the eating-porch during hot 
weather. But here again, as in the case of the 
fireless cooker, this method of cooking should not 
be forced, and only quick-cooking foods at- 
tempted — such as eggs, cheese, fish, etc. For the 
summer evening dinner, a chafing-dish or small 
table-stove is also sometimes practical for re- 
heating a stew or chowder that has been pre- 
viously prepared early in the day. 

Definite choice of any stove is controlled first 
of all, of course, by the kind of fuel that repre- 
sents the greatest economy in the locality, and, 
second, by the number in family to be provided 
for. In addition to this, other considerations 
must be taken into account, and certain practical 
details checked before the wisest decision can 
always be made. There is, for example, the 
kitchen floor and wall space to be considered, 
the method of cooking preferred or most con- 



124 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

venient, and the construction, material, and 
shape that will best satisfy the standards of a good 
stove and one's own esthetic need. Where more 
than one fuel offers itself, estimating compara- 
tive costs of operating different stoves, and bal- 
ancing certain practical advantages in construc- 
tion, or possible results, of one stove against 
another, under the particular home conditions in 
which it is to be used, can help one to come to a 
profitable conclusion. When installing a stove 
all connections and necessary adjustments should 
be prope^ ""y made, when operating it the directions 
provided by the manufacturer should be observed, 
and a stove should receive such regular care as 
will keep it in good working order so that the 
maximum satisfaction and economy shall result. 

Not until the right attitude toward kitchen 
work is generally adopted shall the food help 
that the world now needs from the homes of 
America be effectively and truly realized, and our 
own individual release at the same time come to 
pass. As we have been told over and over again, 
this help must come through organized knowl- 
edge and the ability to put that knowledge into 
practice. Whether, as housekeepers, we do the 
cooking ourselves or not, is no longer part of the 
question. Practical food and housekeeping knowl- 
edge is needed by every one of our twenty-two 
million housekeepers or the American home cannot 



COOKING THE MEALS 125 

register as a positive stronghold in the crisis 
through which history is passing. 

Unfortunately, however, it is not only this 
knowledge that is needed — the knowledge itself 
is, after all, not so difficult to acquire — some- 
thing must be done to make us want the knowledge 
needed. Something must be done to make us 
think of the work done in our kitchens as also 
**one of the forces now operating, the sum of 
which is to set the world free." Something must 
be done to change the thought that kitchen work 
is drudgery, despised, to the truer thought that 
it can be more nearly like a holiday in fairy-land. 
There is a way, if we can only make the spirit 
go and find it. 

REFERENCES: 
See References at close of Chapters IV, V, VI, XL Also, 

Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, Fannie Merritt Farmer. 

New Book of Cookery, Fannie Merritt Farmer. 

Food and Cookery for the Sick, Fannie Merritt Farmer. 

Key to Simple Cookery, Sarah Tyson Rorer. 

Bread and Bread Making, Sarah Tyson Rorer. 

New Salads, Sarah Tyson Rorer. 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes, Sarah Tyson 
Rorer. 

Cooking for Two, Janey McKenzie Hill. 

How to Cook and Why, Condit and Long. 

''Ninety Tested, Palatable, Economical Recipes,'^ Bul- 
letin No. 34, Teachers College, New York, N. Y. 



126 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The Cook Book of Left-Overs, Clarke and Rulon. 
The Corn Cook Book, Elizabeth O. Hiller. 
Foods and Household Majiagement, Kinne and Cooley. 
*'Some Attempts to Standardize Oven Temperatures," 
Bulletin No. 22, May B. Van Arsdale, Teachers 
College, New York, N. Y. 
Economics of Electric Cooking, P. W. Gumaer, Univer- 
sity of Missouri, Columbia, Mo. 
The Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning, Richards and 

Elliot. 
Bacteria, Yeasts, Molds in the Home, H. W. Conn. 
Farmers' Bulletins, published by Department of Home 
Economics, United States Department of Agri- 
culture. 

A list of valuable food and cookery bulletins — 
containing food facts, cooking instructions, and 
recipes — available for free distribution, or for 
a nominal sum, may be obtained by addressing 
the Division of Publications, United States De- 
partment of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
American Cookery, Boston Cooking School Magazine 
Company, Boston, Mass. 

Particularly valuable for its illustrations and ex- 
cellent up-to-date recipes. 
Special and emergency recipes, as required, covering 
foods to be used or spared by the country, may always 
be obtained from: 

The United States Food Administration, Washington, 

D. C. 
The United States Department of Agriculture, Wash- 
ington, D. C. 
The State Agricultural Colleges. 

See, also, References listed at close of Chapter III. 



VIII 



SERVING THE MEALS 




To simplify is often to beautify. To rid modern life 
of its knickknacks is to make room for those things which 
are necessary and beautiful. — Mrs. Havel ock Ellis. 

OOD service means attractive, happy 
service — that is all ! Since the pleasure 
food can give is a very real part of the 
benefit it holds, good service is as es- 
sential as good cooking. The appearance of a 
dish, its flavor, the way it is placed upon the 
table, are quite as important, in many ways, as 
the actual nourishment which that dish may con- 
tain. In other words, unless one eats with appe- 
tite and relish, unless things ''look good — and 
taste good," one does not get full value from the 
food served, nor for the time and money spent 
on it. At the present time, it is, moreover, par- 
ticularly important tha^ all food cooked and served 
should be palatable and attractive, so that it will 
be eaten and not left on the plate to be thrown 
away, which is only food waste in another form. 



128 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Just how good service shall be accomplished 
in the home depends largely upon ideals and 
standards, as well as practical conditions, of liv- 
ing. There are, briefly, two kinds of service — 
formal and informal. Where the desire for the 
former exists, and can be satisfied in the right 
way — with properly recognized professional ser- 
vice — there is really no service problem, all de- 
tails of table arrangement and dining-room ser- 
vice being largely a matter of individual taste 
or preference and accepted convenience. 

Since, however, the majority of housekeepers 
must serve a raeal as well as cook it, and eat, 
and entertain, and clear it all away again — 
almost in the same breath — this final phase of our 
food problem remains to be solved in some prac- 
tical, happy, informal way. How to do it with- 
out making a slave of some member of the family 
is again the question, and again it is a question 
that must be solved step by step — in some orderly 
fashion. 

Serving a meal includes: 

Arranging the dining-table. 
Carrying food from kitchen to table. 
Serving at the table. 
Clearing the table. 
Dish- washing. 

These are the steps to be approached and 
simpHfied, reduced to their very lowest terms, as 



SERVING THE MEALS 129 

it were. Taken as a whole, this may be accom- 
pHshed to a very great degree by : 

1. Simplifying menus, as previously suggested; that 
is, reducing the number of courses served, and con- 
sequently the number of utensils and dishes used, 
to be carried back and forth, and to be washed and 
put away again. In this connection, let us not for- 
get the following types of meals, which are always 
dehghtful and becoming more popular as their prac- 
tical value is appreciated: 

^'Kitchen alcove" breakfasts. 
"One dish" luncheons. 
" Two-course " dinners. 
''Tray-suppers" for the porch or fireside. 
''Picnic-basket" meals. 

2. Reducing dining-room and table appointments to a 
minimum, and placing on the table only dishes and 
food that give one pleasure to look at,- handle, or 
eat. Beauty has a wonderful way of reducing labor 
and neutralizing fatigue. Perhaps this is a subtle 
point to make, but we have only to experiment to 
know that it is so. 

A sprig of fresh parsley here, a slice of lemon 
there, the radish rose, the olive, the bit of pi- 
mento, and the table will have a crispness and 
a sparkle and a lightness that seem to dissipate 
any work there may be in caring for it. Even the 
paper doily under the baked custards, the leaf 
in the finger-bowl, the flower in the center of the 
. table have a drudgery-reducing value all their 
own. 



I30 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Perhaps the most practicable and at the same 
time the most artistic and attractive table itself 
is the plain, painted table — in cream- white or 
black — waxed to a polish, and arranged with 
very little or even no linen, and as few dishes and 
pieces of silver as possible. Such a table is easily 
washed with soap and water, it can be kept im- 
maculate with very little effort, there is little 
linen to fold, put away, launder, and the table 
itself furnishes the very loveliest background for 
flowers of any kind and whatever cheerful, gaily 
colored pottery china we may choose to have. 

Small pieces of linen — which does not mean in- 
numerable small doilies — are always more prac- 
tical than the large table-cloth with its accom- 
panying heavy, padded under-cloth, always a 
trouble to fold, wash, and care for. For the aver- 
age table, a small linen piece in the center, or a 
narrow runner, with little tea-napkins to match, 
is all the linen required. The unbleached crash 
linens and the Japanese crepe towelings are best 
for this purpose, and most attractive pieces can 
be made very quickly at very little expense. 

' Paper doilies and napkins may be substituted 
for linen, if desired; while these may not be 
as attractive as the linen, they are worth con- 
sidering where the laundry problem is at all 

' troublesome. 

Flat silver free from unnecessary ornamentation 
is the most comfortable to handle, looks best on 
the table, and is the easiest to keep clean. 

Do not have one service for "every day" and 
another for ''company" and "Sundays." This 



SERVING THE MEALS 131 

complicates matters, and the idea is not sound. 
Let us live as happily as we can — always — 
according to our means and standards, and then 
that which is good enough for our own family 
is surely good enough for others. 

3. Checking kitchen convenience in relation to the 
dining-room — how many steps from stove to table? 
from sink to table? from dresser with dishes and 
silver to table? 

Narrow, open, painted shelves for the china, with 
hooks for cups and pitchers, are more practical 
than the deep closet, or a dresser with doors. 
These shelves should be located in convenient 
relation to both the sink where the dish-washing 
is done and the dining-room table. 

4. Making use of all practical step- and labor-saving 
devices : 

A '^ tray- wagon '^ or a "wheel-tray,'* on rolling 
casters or small wheels, also finished in a hard 
enamel paint, and complete with a series of 
shelves, including one sliding shelf or drawer — 
with partitions — for holding all flat silver in 
constant use, will further simplify service and 
make every meal comfortable for every member 
of the family. If such an "assistant'* is cleverly 
used, it is easily possible to serve an entire meal 
without any one leaving the table at any time. 
This tray should have a permanent place in the 
kitchen near both stove and sink, so that it can 
be of equal service for carrying food from the 
stove to the table, as well as soiled dishes from 
the table to the sink. 



132 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The many interesting glass and earthen baking- 
dishes which meet every requirement of perfect 
cooking and perfect service suggest another means 
of saving labor, for the one dish ^^both cooks and 
serves.'* 

Paper dishes are practical at times. When pur- 
chased by the gross from a wholesale paper- goods 
concern they are much less expensive than when 
purchased by the dozen in a department store. 

Cooking at the table is another happy thought. 
An electric chafing-dish, coffee-pot, toaster, or one 
of the fascinating '^table-stoves" can save many 
steps and will take good care of the small family. 

The picnic-basket — fortified with an alcohol- 
kettle or a vacuum bottle — might be used much 
more frequently than it is. Instead of closing 
the eyes to the sunshine and the flowers as a 
sterner conscience whispers '' dinner," why not 
spread a cloth under the protecting branches of 
an apple-tree just bursting into bloom, and in- 
vite family and friends to a meal in fairy-land? 
Every one will be the better and happier for such 
a treat. Call it an apple-blossom party if you 
will, and have one on the first warm day when 
the blossoms open, and another the next, and vStill 
another before the blossoms fall. 

5. Enlisting the interested co-operation of all mem.bers 
of the family. 

By taking turns in caring for the table, children 
can be taught housekeeping, as well as service for 
others, in a happy, practical, wholesome way. 



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SERVING THE MEALS 133 

). Organizing some effective method of caring for the 
dish-washing problem, as follows: 

Eliminate as much dish-washing as possible by 
simplifying meals and service, as suggested. 

Install proper dish -washing equipment: 

A large, white-enameled or porcelain sink — in- 
stalled at the proper height, near a window with 
a pleasant outlook — and running hot water in 
abundance are the first requisites of simplified 
dish -washing. 

The following small equipment kept near the 
sink, in some orderly arrangement, will further 
simplify the work: 

Porcelain jar for soap-powder. 

Porcelain jar for soda. 

Ammonia. 

Reliable friction cleanser. 

Steel wool for cleaning aluminum, etc. 

Faucet soap-dish, with neutral soap. 

Copper dish-mop. 

Copper dish-cloth. 

Sink strainer. 

Bottle-brush. 

Utility brush. 

Cork knife-cleaner. 

Small emery-stone. 

White fiber tray. 

Dish-drainer. 

Dish -pan. 

Small enameled garbage-can. 

Crash dish-towels. 



134 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Linen glass-towels. 

Paper towels. 

Hand-brush. 

Lemon and cold-cream for the hands. 

For the large family, the dish-washing machine 
is already demonstrating its usefulness, and 
greatly improved types are on the market or 
under construction. A machine must be selected 
with care and judgment, however. One operated 
by electricity, where this is available, is, of course, 
preferable to one operated by hand. Any ma- 
chine selected and used should be simple in 
construction so that care and cleaning are easy, 
should be durable, should not occupy unneces- 
sary floor space, and should be so constructed 
that it can be permanently connected with 
water-supply and disposal pipes. 

For the small family, and in the home where 
hot water is abundant, dishes can sometimes be 
very quickly washed by placing them in a deep 
w4re rack or dish -drainer, sprinkling them with 
soap-powder, and allowing scalding water from 
the faucet to run over and through them. The 
drainer may then be lifted from the sink, 
placed on the drain board, and the dishes allowed 
to stand until dry. 

Work in an orderly manner : 

Just what routine is best followed must be de- 
cided by each individual housekeeper. So long 
as the work is done quickly and well, the exact 
process matters little. Much time is saved, and 



SERVING THE MEALS 135 

it is usually more sanitary, if dishes are allowed 
to dry by draining. Dishes should always be 
carefully scraped, or wiped with paper,, before 
washing; this is particularly important in con- 
nection with greasy dishes or pans. 

Our country as an industrial art center is de- 
veloping rapidly. In every phase of living, pub- 
lic taste is demanding the artistic as well as the 
practical. Useful household articles of every kind, 
from the pots and kettles hanging in our kitchens 
to the fixtures in the bathroom, are now chosen 
for line, form, color, as well as for general useful- 
ness, wearing qualities, and other practical ad- 
vantages. In no field, however, has the American 
producer of household requisites assembled greater 
talent than in the manufacture of furnishings and 
equipment for the dining-room and table. Artists 
with a real message for the world are now design- 
ing our everyday knives and forks and spoons, 
our dinner-plates and teapots, the glass from 
which we drink our water, the linen on the table. 
Everything we handle, in this connection, can be 
a source of rest and inspiration. Every moment 
spent in the preparation and serving of meals 
should be one of the brightest spots in life, one 
very real thing that relieves and balances the 
struggle to live. That it is not, is one of the sad- 
dest facts in the history of the world at this time. 
Knowledge, well-ordered, is suggested over and 



136 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

over again as a remedy — and it is the only prac- 
tical remedy to ofifer. But all the knowledge, all 
the theories, all the order in the world can never 
entirely remedy matters unless we ourselves can 
and will see household service stripped of its 
drudgery and revealed in its true light. 

REFERENCES: 

For practical instructions and helpful suggestions in 

the serving of meals, the following publications will 

be found of value: 

Table Service, Lucy G. Allen. 

Planning and Furnishing the Home, Mary J. Quinn. 

The Efficient Kitchen, Georgie B. Child. 

The New Housekeeping, Christine Frederick. 

The Expert Waitress, Anne F. Springsteed. 

Foods and Household Management, Kinne and Cooley. 

^'Planning and Serving Meals/' Home Economics Bul- 
letin, Iowa State College, Ames, Iowa. 

For the Comfort of the Family, Josephine Story. 

A Text Book of Cooking, Charlotte C. Greer. (See 
Part II, chapter on Dining-room Service.) 

Jotcrnal of Home Economics, American Home Eco- 
nomics Association, Baltimore, Md. (Special 
articles.) 

See, also, References listed at close of Chapter III. 



IX 



YOUR RECIPES 




HE value of a recipe depends upon its 
fundamental reliability, its complete- 
ness, its adaptability, and the accu- 
racy and judgment with which it is 
followed. The majority of foods may be pre- 
pared, and a number of wholesome, interesting 
dishes made from a few standard rules or recipes, 
variety being easily obtained by changing flavor, 
seasoning, form, or method of service, or sub- 
stituting one equivalent material or ingredient 
for another. While a practical recipe properly 
used should and does go far toward simplifying 
cooking and insuring good results, the fewer rec- 
ipes we have the better off we really are; in 
mere accumulation there is more burden than 
virtue. 

Every recipe used and kept should fill some 
definite purpose, either serving as a ''foundation" 
for many dishes or meeting some special need. 
From the one recipe for wheat tea biscuit, for 



138 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

example, we should be able to make rye biscuit, 
drop biscuit, barley scones, cheese biscuit, gra- 
ham biscuit, shortcakes, quick cofiEee-cake, etc., 
by simply supplying the necessary variation or 
addition, or substituting one material for another. 
In the same way, from a recipe for crea^i of 
spinach soup we should be able to make any 
cream vegetable soup — cucumber, carrot, let- 
tuce, etc. — the vegetable varying, that is all — 
and perhaps the bowl in which we choose to 
serve it. 

The ideal recipe, one that is worth keeping and 
using, should not only be correct as to the pro- 
portions and amounts of the ingredients used in 
the making of the dish, and explicit in directions 
for treating or combining these ingredients, it 
should state, in addition, as far as practical: 

Time required for preparation. 

Time required for cooking. 

Most desirable cooking temperature. 

How to serve it. 

Number served. 

At what meal served. 

With what other foods it is best served. 

Wholesomeness or digestibility. 

Keeping qualities. 

How it may be varied or adapted. 

Approximate cost. 

Special caution, if any. 



YOUR RECIPES 139 

But, we must not overlook the fact, further, 
that at best any recipe is only a guide. No matter 
how reliable and complete a recipe may be in 
itself, food materials are ever variable, and, very 
frequently, conditions under which the work is 
done, therefore the ultimate success and final 
value of a dish depends not only upon our ability 
to follow specific directions, but to judge materials 
and conditions, and make such adjustments as 
may be called for at the moment. One-third of 
a cupful of liquid to one cupful of flour may be 
the theoretically correct proportion for making 
ideal biscuits, and we may measure these propor- 
tions accurately, but the result may not be as 
anticipated, or guaranteed by the recipe, be- 
cause we fail to note some difference in the flour 
which should have called for some corresponding 
change in the amount of liquid used — possibly 
a little more or a little less. 

This matter of judgment is particularly im- 
portant, too, in connection with oven tempera- 
tures when baking. The size of a loaf of bread or 
cake, the shape of the pan, even, at times, the 
particular oven or fuel in use, can materially 
affect the temperature at which the baking should 
be done. The best way to insure success is to 
study one's own oven — one with a glass door 
will simplify matters very much — use an indicator, 
and note temperatures and results in connection 



I40 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

with the baking of certain foods under certain 
conditions.-^ 

Every housekeeper should be equipped with 
a standard cook-book ^ for general cooking in- 
structions and such special recipes as may be re- 
quired from time to time. A reliable book on 
cookery for the sick is also desirable. In addition 
to this, cooking for a family can be greatly sim- 
plified if a housekeeper has a special, compact 
set of recipes of her very own, selected and ar- 
ranged to meet the needs of her particular house- 
hold. These recipes should be printed or written 
on small cards, and filed, carefully indexed — 
ready for instant use — in a small card-catalogue 
box kept on or near the work-table in the kitchen. 
This cabinet method of keeping recipes is not 
only a convenience for the housekeeper, and an 
inspiration for the school-girl just learning to 
cook, but a recognized system now adopted in 
schools and colleges where cooking is taught. 

The following assembled recipes ^ suggest what 
might be included in such a set. While these 
recipes, like the menus in Chapter VI, have been 
selected because of their food satisfaction, both 

1 See "Some Attempts to Standardize Oven Tempera- 
tures," Bulletin 22, May B. Van Arsdale, Teachers College, 
New York, N. Y. 

2 See books listed at close of chaps, vi and vii. 

^ These are largely standard recipes adapted to present 
needs. 



YOUR RECIPES 141 

in wholesomeness and attractiveness, as well as 
economy in the use of food materials and time 
required for preparation, they are offered here 
as sample suggestions only.^ They may be revised 
or adapted to meet special needs, or they may 
serve as a model or inspiration for arranging 
other ''sets." The recipes as given have all been 
thoroughly tested, and may be depended upon 
for good results if followed with care and judg- 
ment. All measurements are level, and one cup- 
ful equals one-half pint; measuring-cups and 
standard tea- and table-spoons should be used 
for measuring. 
IQ 1 See, also, chap, xii, p. 238. 



14^ FOOD AND FREEDOM 



WHOLESOME BREADS 
Made from a Variety of Flours 

Where much baking is done, a set of ^' rules/* or a 
'^ table of proportions," clearly printed on a card, 
which can be slipped into a little celluloid case, or 
even framed, is most convenient. The Quick Bread 
table printed on the following page is particularly 
practical, and illustrates this point. From this one 
table almost any variety of quick bread may be made 
— from tea-biscuits down to popovers, including 
muffins, waffles, griddle-cakes. Variety is obtained 
by using different flours, changing the amount or 
kind of shortening, and sometimes the pan in which 
the baking is done. With the exception of the last 
two, which are of another type, the recipes which 
follow are based, largely, on these same proportions, 
but suggest interesting developments. 



YOUR RECIPES 



143 




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144 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Corn Bread 

Ingredients 

2}/2 cupfuls soft cornmeal 2 cupfuls thick sour milk 

^ level, teaspoonful salt 1 level teaspoonful baking-soda 

2 level tablespoonfuls melted fat 

Time: Preparation, 8 minutes; baking, 30 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

MIX salt and meal. Put milk into a bowl, add soda — 
dissolved in spoonful water; mix. Add this to meal, 
add melted shortening, mix well. Pour into a greased, 
shallow pan; bake in a moderately hot oven (about 370° 
F.) until a rich golden brown. Serve fresh for breakfast or 
supper, with milk or cocoa or fruit. 

For variety^ two beaten eggs may be added, and two 
cupfuls cornmeal mixed with one-half cupful rye or wheat 
flour used in place of all meal. If milk is not very 
sour, use a little less soda, and add two level teaspoon- 
fuls baking-powder to the batter. Fat may be omitted. 



Quick Corn Sally 

Ingredients 

1 cupful flour 4 level teaspoonfuls baking-powder 

1 cupful cornmeal 2 eggs (1 will do) 

}/2 level teaspoonful salt 1 cupful milk, about 

2 level tablespoonfuls sugar 2 tablespoonfuls melted fat 

Time: Preparation j 5 minutes; baking, 25 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

MIX dry ingredients. Beat eggs, add milk; add this 
to the dry mixture. Now add the melted fat, and 
pour batter into a well-greased, shallow pan. Bake in a 
quick oven (about 400° F.) until a golden brown. Serve 
at once. This is a nourishing bread, easily made, and 
delicious. Serve hot with butter, honey, or maple syrup 
for breakfast, luncheon, or supper. Either rye, white, or 
whole-wheat flour may be used. 



YOUR RECIPES 14S 

Little Dandy Gems 

Ingredients 

2 cupfuls sifted flour M level teaspoonful baking- 

14 level teaspoonful salt soda, about 

1 level tablespoonful sugar 1 cupful sour milk (not too 

2 level teaspoonfuls baking- sour), about 

powder 2 eggs 

2 level tablespoonfuls melted fat 

Time: Preparation, lo minutes; baking, 25 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

MIX flour, salt, sugar, baking-powder. Beat eggs. Add 
soda to sour milk; mix. Add this to the dry in- 
gredients, add beaten eggs, melted fat; beat for a moment, 
using a double, rotary egg-beater. The batter should be 
just thin enough to permit the beater to go through it. 
Pour into hot, greased gem-pans; bake in a quick oven 
(about 400° F.) until a golden brown. Serve fresh for 
breakfast or supper. Fat may be omitted entirely. 

For Blueberry Muffins, add one cupful floured berries 
to the batter, and use a little less liquid. 



Quick Date Gems 

Ingredients 

1 cupful whole-wheat flour 2 eggs (or 1 large one) 

1 cupful graham or rye flour 1 cupful milk 

}/2 level teaspoonful salt 2 level tablesxx)onfuls melted fat 

4 level teaspoonfuls baking-powder 1 cupful dates, stoned, cut small 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 25 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

MIX drjr ingredients. Beat eggs without separating; 
add these to the milk; add this to the diy ingredi- 
ents; add melted fat, and beat well for a moment. Now 
add dates lightly floured. Pour into hot, greased gem- 
pans, sprinkle tops lightly with granulated sugar, and bake 
in a quick oven. Serve fresh with butter. These are 
wholesome, nourishing, satisfying; excellent for break- 
fast, lunch, supper. 



146 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Oatmeal -Cheese Scones 

Ingredients 

1}4 cupfuls rye or whole-wheat 4 level teaspoonfuls baking-powder 
flour 2 level tablespoonfuls butter 

% cupful rolled oats substitute 

}^ level teaspoonful salt M cupful milk, about 

Grated cheese 

Time: Preparation, 12 minutes; baking, 25 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

MIX dry ingredients. Rub in fat; add milk gradually, 
just enough to thoroughly moisten dough. Turn 
dough onto a floured board; knead lightly for a moment. 
Roll into a sheet one-fourth inch thick; cut into small 
squares ; brush each with a little melted fat, and sprinkle 
grated cheese on half the number. Put together in pairs, 
place on a shallow greased pan, cut each biscuit into two 
parts, diagonally; brush tops with milk; bake in a hot 
oven. Served fresh, these are delicious for luncheon or 
supper with hot tea, chocolate, or with salad or fruit. 



Tiny Tea Biscuit 

Ingredients 

3 cupfuls flour 4 level tablespoonfuls butter 

^4 level teaspoonful salt substitute 

6 level teasF>oonfuls baking-powder 1 cupful milk, about 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 15 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 40 small biscuits 

MIX and sift dry ingredients. Rub in the fat. Add 
milk gradually, mixing lightly, until dough is moist. 
Turn onto a floured board, knead lightly a moment. Divide 
the dough, for convenience. Roll each piece out, lightly, 
one-fourth inch in thickness. Cut with a very small cutter. 
Put together in pairs with a little soft fat between. Bake 
in a hot oven — about 425° F. These are attractive for 
fancy sandwiches, and at times a great convenience. Any 
flour that is most desirable may be used. 



YOUR RECIPES 147 

Peanut Scones 

Ingredients 

2 cupfuls flour 1 level tablespoonful butter sub- 

%, level teaspoonful salt, scant stitute 

4 level teaspoonfuls baking- 4 level tablespoonfuls peanut 
powder butter 

^ cupful milk, about 

Time: Preparation, 8 minutes; baking, 20 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

MIX dry ingredients. Rub in the butter and the pea- 
nut butter. Add milk gradually, mixing lightly, 
until dough is just moist enough to drop from tip of spoon. 
Drop into greased gem-pans, or onto a shallow, greased 
biscuit-tin; bake in a quick oven — about 425° F. De- 
licious, nourishing, and very easily made. With cocoa 
and a green salad, or stewed fruit, these make an excellent 
supper or luncheon. 



Liberty Fig Rolls 

Ingredients 

1 cupful rye flour 4 level teaspoonfuls baking-powder 

1 cupful graham flour 2 ^ level tablespoonfuls nut butter 

}/2 level teaspoonful salt % cupful milk, about 

Fig filling (See, also, page 194) 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 30 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

TV/riX dry ingredients; rub in nut butter. Add milk 
xYX gradually, mixing lightly, until dough is moist. 
Turn onto a floured board, knead lightly a moment, roll 
out one-fourth inch thick. Spread lightly with soft fat, 
then generously with fig filling; roll like jelly- roll; cut 
into thick slices; place close together on a shallow, greased 
pan, cut side up. Dot with bits of fat; bake in a hot oven. 
To make filling: Mix one-half cupful ground figs and 
one-half cupful ground raisins; add one-eighth cupful 
sugar, an equal quantity of water; cook a moment until 
thick and smootU. 



148 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Raisin -Nut Bread 

Ingredients 

IK cupfuls rye Hour ^ cupful chopped nutr (or 
13^ cupfuls whole-wheat flour peanut butter) 

M level teaspoonful salt % cupful raisins 

6 level teaspoonfuls baking- 1 egg 

powder 13^ cupfuls milk, about 

Time: Preparation, lo minutes; baking, 40 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes i medium loaf 

^TWriX dry ingredients; add nuts, raisins; mix. Beat egg, 
^^ add milk; add this to dry ingredients; mix lightly. 
Pour into a greased, narrow bread-pan; let stand fifteen 
minutes. Bake in a moderately hot oven (about 370° F.). 
Do not cut until next day. Excellent for sandwiches, or 
for luncheon or supper with milk, cocoa, or salad. 

For variety, either nuts or raisins may be omitted, and 
either white or graham flour may be used. One level 
tablespoonful of fat and one-quarter cupful sugar may be 
added if desired, but are not necessary. 



Hominy Popovers 

Ingredients 

1 cupful cooked hominy (left-over) 1 H cupfuls milk 
1 cupful flour 4 eggs (3 will do) 

Yi level teaspoonful salt 

Time: Preparation, lo minutes; baking, 45 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 12 popovers 

MIX flour with hominy; add salt. Beat eggs, without 
separating, until light; add this gradually to the 
flour and hominy. Beat until very light, using an egg- 
beater. Pour into hot, greased gem-pans or earthen cups; 
bake in a moderately hot oven (400° F., increasing to 
440° F., then decreasing to 360° F.) until a rich golden 
brown on all sides. Do not open oven door too soon. 
If well baked, these will keep their shape even when cold; 
they should be hollow. Serve hot with butter for break- 
fast or supper, or as a dessert with Fruit Hard Sauce. 



YOUR RECIPES 149 

Steamed Brown Bread 

Ingredients 

1 cupful whole- wheat flour }/2 cupful warm water 

1 cupful yellow cornmeal H cupful molasses 

% level teaspoonful salt 1 cupful thick sour milk 

IM level teaspoonfuls baking-soda 1 cupful raisins 

Time: Preparation, lo minutes; steaming, 3 hours 
Number served: Recipe makes i large loaf 

MIX dry ingredients; add milk, water, molasses; mix 
well ; then add the raisins, well floured. Pour into a 
buttered mold, cover and steam. This may be served hot 
or cold. Raisins may be omitted, if desired. When cold 
this bread makes excellent sandwiches for the picnic 
lunch; particularly good with cream cheese, nuts, and 
lettuce. 



Spoon Corn Bread 

Ingredients 

.1 pint milk ^ level teaspoonful salt 

^ cupful yellow commeal, scant 4 eggs 

^ level tablespoonful fat 

Time: Preparation, 20 minutes; baking, 35 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

PUT milk in double boiler, add cornmeal; cook to a 
smooth mush — about twenty minutes. Remove from 
fire, add salt, fat, and when cool the unbeaten yolks of 
the eggs; mix well; fold in the stiffly beaten whites. Pour 
into a well-greased, shallow, earthen dish; bake in a 
moderate oven until a golden brown. This should puff 
and double its bulk. Serve at once; dish with a spoon; 
spread with butter. 

For variety, add one cupful minced ham or smoked beef 
before baking; or, cover bottom of dish with stewed 
prunes, quartered apples, ripe peaches, or berries, and 
pour in the batter and bake; serve with cream or milk. 



ISO FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Directions for Bread-making 

Ingredients 

1 pint milk 1 yeast cake (compressed) 

1 pint boiling water M cupful warm water 

3 to 4 level teaspoonfuls salt 3 to 4 quarts flour 

Time: Preparation, 5 hours, about; baking, 50 minutes 

Number served: Recipe makes 4 medium loaves 

TDUT milk and salt into the pail of the bread-mixer; 
^ add the boiling water. When the liquid is lukewarm 
(about 85° F.) add the yeast, dissolved in warm water, 
and then add the flour — gradually. Knead five to eight 
minutes; cover and let stand in a warm place until light 
— about three hours. When light, turn crank of bread- 
mixer a moment, then lift dough out onto a floured board, 
and remove the rod. Cut dough into four pieces, knead 
into shape, and put into greased pans. Cover with a clean 
cloth, and let stand in a warm place until double its bulk. 
Prick tops, brush with milk, bake in a moderately quick 
oven (400° F., dropping to 370° F.) fifty minutes. Cool 
on a wire rack; do not cover with a cloth. 

For a simpler or cheaper bread, all water may be used; 
for a richer bread, all milk. 

For entire- wheat bread, use entire- wheat flour; for gra- 
ham bread, use graham flour; for rye bread, rye flour. 

For raisin, date, or fig bread, add cleaned chopped 
fruit before shaping into loaves. For nut bread, add finely 
chopped nuts. Two cupfuls is a good measure. 

For plain rolls, cut bread dough when light into small 
pieces, shape, brush tops with milk, let stand until light; 
bake in a hot oven. 

If shortening and sugar are desired, add one to two 
level tablespoonfuls of fat and the same of sugar to the 
liquid and proceed as directed. Keep top of dough moist 
while rising to prevent a crust from forming. If bread 
is to be set overnight, use less yeast. 

Exact amount of flour depends upon quality ; three parts 
flour to one of liquid is usually correct, although more is 
frequently needed. For detailed information, consult 
Farmers' Bulletin 807, published by the United States 
Department of Agriculture. This bulletin is free. Special 
recipes for Victory Breads may be obtained from the 
United States Food Administration. 



YOUR RECIPES 151 

Corn- Wheat Bread 

Ingredients 

1 1^ cupfuls milk 1 level tablespoonful butter sub- 
IK cupfuls water stitute 

1 cupful cornmeal 1 yeast cake 

2 level teaspoonfuls salt 4 cupfuls flour, about 

Time: Preparation and baking, 5 hours, about 
Number served: Recipe makes 2 small loaves 

PUT milk and water into a saucepan or double boiler, 
add cornmeal, mix; cook carefully to a thick mush — 
about twenty minutes. Remove from fire, add salt; 
when lukewarm, add yeast, dissolved in a little milk. 
Now add enough white or whole-wheat flour to make a 
soft dough; knead thoroughly on a floured board, adding 
more flour as necessary, but keeping dough rather soft. 
Stand in a warm place until very light and double its bulk. 
Turn onto a floured board, shape into loaves, place in 
greased bread-pans, and let stand again until light. Bake 
in a hot oven forty-five minutes. Also makes good rolls. 



Oatmeal -Rye Bread 

Ingredients 

1 cupful hot, cooked oatmeal 1 level tablespoonful fat 

1 cupful milk, scalded ^ cupful brown sugar 

2 level teaspoonfuls salt 1 yeast cake 

6 cupfuls rye flour, about 

Time: Preparation and baking, 5 hours, about 
Number served: Recipe makes 2 loaves 

ADD fat, sugar, salt, milk to oatmeal. When lukewarm, 
<• add yeast, dissolved in a little milk. Now add gradu- 
ally, while beating vigorously, enough flour to make a 
soft dough. Cover; let stand in a warm place until very 
light. Add remainder of flour, or enough to make a 
rather stiff dough; mix thoroughly. Drop into narrow, 
greased pans. Let stand again until loaves double their 
bulk. Bake in a moderately hot oven forty-five minutes. 
This is moist and porous. 



152 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



•WORTH-WHILE MEAT-SUBSTITUTE 
DISHES 

Easily Prepared — Wholesome — Delicious 



YOUR RECIPES 



153 




Spinach Marmite 

Ingredients 



\}/2 cupfuls cooked spinach, 

finely chopped 
2 cupfuls spinach water 
1 quart milk 
Toast 



2 level tablespoonfuls butter 

substitute 
4 level tablespoonfuls flour 
Salt; pepper; onion salt 
Grated cheese 



Time: Preparation and cooking, 25 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

SAVE water drained from spinach and use for soup. 
Put fat into a saucepan; melt; add flour; mix. Add 
spinach, spinach water, and milk. Cook carefully, stir- 
ring until smooth. Have ready round pieces of buttered 
toast sprinkled with grated cheese. Pour soup into small 
** marmite" pots, or earthen bowls; place a piece of toast 
on top of each, stand in oven until cheese is melted. Serve 
at once. For a thicker soup use only three cupfuls milk. 



154 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Black Bean Bisque . 

Ingredients 

1 pint black beans Water; salt; pepper 

1 small onion, finely chopped 3 hard-cooked eggs, sliced 
3 stalks celery, finely chopped 1 lemon sliced 

2 level tablespoonfuls butter ^ cupful minced, cooked tongue 

substitute (if available) 

2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

Time: Soaking overnight; cooking, 4 hours, about 
Number served: 6 persons 

SOAK beans overnight in cold water. Drain, add about 
two quarts fresh, cold water. Cook until tender, add- 
ing more water if required. When done, rub through a 
sieve or vegetable press; add salt and pepper. Put onion, 
celery, and fat into a small pan; cook fifteen minutes; 
add flour; mix. Add this to soup, and cook all, stirring, 
fifteen minutes. Add sliced eggs, lemon, tongue, and a 
little chopped parsley. Serve very hot. Pass rye-bread 
toast, or rye rolls, or oven-dried bread. 



Lentil-Sausage Soup 

Ingredients 

1 pint lentils 2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

1 onion Water; salt; pepper 

1 small bay leaf 4 Frankfurt sausages, boiled 

2 level tablespoonfuls fat Chopped parsley 

Time: Soaking overnight; cooking, 3 hours, about 
Number served: 6 persons 

SOAK lentils overnight in cold water. Drain, add about 
two quarts fresh, cold water, the onion, and bay leaf. 
Cook slowly until lentils are tender, adding more water 
if required. When done, rub through a sieve or vegetable 
press; add salt and pepper. Put fat in a saucepan, melt; 
add flour; mix. Add this to the strained soup; cook care- 
fully, stirring, ten minutes. Add sausages, peeled and 
cut into thin, round slices. Serve very hot. If soup is too 
thick, more water may be added. Pass whole- wheat bread 
or rye biscuit. 



YOUR RECIPES 155 

Fish Chowder 

Ingredients 

4 Bermuda or white onions 1 level tablespoonful chopped 

3 potatoes, medium size parsley 

3^ pound salt codfish ^ level teaspoonful white 

1 quart milk pepper 

]/2 level tablespoonful butter substitute 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 50 minutes 

Number served: 4 persons 

SOAK fish in cold water overnight, or for several hours. 
Peel and cut onions into very thin slices; put them 
into a large saucepan, adding just enough boiling salted 
water to cover, and simmer gently about fifteen minutes. 
Now add potatoes peeled and cut into small dice, and 
enough more boiling water to cover them ; cook ten minutes. 
Add fish, flaked, and cook all for ten minutes longer; add 
butter substitute, milk, parsley, pepper, salt, if necessary, 
and cook five minutes more. Serve in individual bowls. 
Pass large pilot or soda crackers, lightly buttered. 



Chicken Curry Soup 

Ingredients 

1 quart chicken stock 2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

1 pint milk; 2 egg yolks J^ level tablespoonful curry 

1 cupful finely chopped celery 1 chicken liver, cooked, chopped 

2 level tablespoonfuls chicken 1 pimento, chopped 

fat 2 cupfuls boiled rice; salt 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 40 minutes 
Number served: 4 to 6 persons 

"IDUT fat into a saucepan; when melted, add celery; 
■^ cover; cook fifteen minutes. Add flour, curry; mix; 
add milk, chicken stock. Cook, stirring, until smooth and 
creamy; season; add beaten egg yolks; cook a moment 
longer. Have ready hot rice mixed with pimento and liver. 
Place a spoonful or small mold of rice in each soup-dish, 
fill with soup, dot with parsley. Serve with hot toasted 
rolls or pulled bread. 



iS6 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Cream of Peanut Soup 

Ingredients 

1 quart milk 1 tablespoonful chopped celery 

1 cupful water l^ tablespoonful chopped onion 
^ cup peanut butter 1 very small bay leaf 

2 level tablespoonfuls flour Salt; pepper 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 30 minutes • 
Number served: 4 persons 

COOK celery and onion in the water until tender — 
about ten minutes. Rub flour thoroughly through 
the peanut butter. Now put this, the milk, bay leaf, and 
the cooked onion and celery into a saucepan; cook gently, 
stirring, until thoroughly heated, smooth, and creamy. 
When boiling-point is reached stir a moment. Remove at 
once from fire, season, strain, and serve in individual bowls. 
Another good luncheon or dinner dish; pass toasted gra- 
ham bread, and follow with salad or a baked fruit pudding. 



Cheese Puree or Rarebit Soup 

Ingredients 

1 ]/2 cupfuls grated American Yolks of 2 eggs 

cheese Few drops onion juice 

1 quart milk Salt; paprika; chopped parsley 

1 level tablespoonful nut butter ^4 cupful boiled rice, or 4 slices 

2 level tablesF>oonfuls flour toast 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 20 minutes 
Number served: 4 persons 

TDUT butter into a saucepan; when melted add flour 
^ and seasoning; mix. Now add milk and cheese, and 
heat all slowly, stirring carefully, until whole becomes 
creamy and smooth. Add rice and egg yolks, slightly 
beaten; stir a moment, then pour immediately into in- 
dividual serving-bowls. If preferred, omit rice, and pour 
into soup-plates, with a slice of crisp buttered toast in 
each dish; sprinkle with chopped parsley. Very easily 
and quickly made ; nourishing and good. Serve with salad. 



YOUR RECIPES 157 

Lentil Rice, Tongue Garnish 

Ingredients 

1 cupful lentils 1 can patted tongue, small 

% cupful rice ]/2 cupful bread-crumbs, soft 

1 onion, chopped 1 egg, beaten 

1 level tablespoonful fat 2 bouillon cubes 

3^ teaspoonful kitchen bouquet 2 level tablespoonfuls fat 

Salt; pepper 2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

1 cupful water 

Time: Preparation, soaking overnight; cooking, 2 hours 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

WASH the lentils; soak overnight in cold water. Drain, 
cook in boiling water unil tender; drain. Boil and 
drain the rice, add to the lentils; season with salt, pepper, 
and the onion, which has been cooked until soft in the 
fat, without browning. Heat for a moment. Mold in a 
bowl, and keep hot until ready to serve. Add crumbs and 
egg to the tongue. Form into small balls and poach, in 
gently boiling water, for ten minutes. While these are 
cooking, dissolve the cubes in one- quarter cupful hot water, 
then add three-quarters cupful cold water. Melt two 
tablespoonfuls fat, add the flour, mix; add the bouillon 
and cook until thick and smooth ; add the bouquet. Turn 
out the lentils and rice on a deep platter. Pour the sauce 
around the mold, garnish with the balls. Serve very hot. 
Chipped beef, ham, or Frankfurt sausages, boiled or split 
and broiled, may be used in place of the tongue balls. 

A good dinner dish. Serve finely shredded cabbage 
salad with orange dressing, cheese wafers, and caramel 
custards or a fruit jelly. 

11 



158 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Stewed Soy Beans 

Ingredients 

2 cupfuls dried soy beans 3^ cupful minced ham 

1 can tomatoes 1 level teaspoonful fat 

1 small onion, chopped 1 level tablespoonful flour 

1 green pepper, chopped Water; salt. 

Time: Soaking, 24 hours; cooking, 2 hours, about 
Number served: 6 persons 

SOAK soy beans in cold water twenty-four hours. Cook 
slowly, in enough water to cover them, until tender; 
add salt, and drain. Add onion and pepper to tomatoes, 
and cook twenty minutes; add ham; melt butter, add 
flour, and add this to the tomatoes. Now add this to the 
beans; heat all together for a few minutes, and serve in 
a large dish with a garnish of boiled rice. These beans 
rank high in food value, can well take the place of meat, 
and are inexpensive; they have a rich, delicious flavor. 
Other beans may be prepared and served in the same way. 



Cheese Souffle 

Ingredients 

4 eggs 1^ cupfuls milk 

11/2 cupfuls American cheese, ^ cupful bread-crumbs 

cut fine yi level teaspoonful salt 

6 level tablesjxDonfuls flour J^ level teaspoonful paprika 

3 level tablespoonfuls butter substitute 

Time: Preparation, 20 minutes; baking, 25 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

TWTELT the butter, add the flour, mix; add the milk 
^^ and cook, stirring constantly, until thick and smooth; 
add cheese and continue cooking until it is melted; add 
seasoning. Cool, add yolks of eggs, unbeaten, mix thor- 
oughly; fold in carefully the stiffly beaten whites. Pour 
into a buttered earthen baking- or souffie-dish, sprinkle 
the top with crumbs, add a few bits of butter, and bake 
in a moderately hot oven. Send at once to the table. 
Serve with a crisp lettuce and tomato salad. 



YOUR RECIPES 159 

A Spaghetti Rarebit 

Ingredients 

}/2 poxind soft American cheese 1 level tablespoonful butter 

^ package spaghetti, cooked 1 teaspoonful Worcestershire 
14 cupful milk or cream sauce 

1 egg Salt, pepper 

Time: In chafing-dish, 15 minutes, about 
Number served: 3 persons 

CUT cheese into small pieces. Put butter and cheese 
into chafing-dish; heat slowly. When cheese is melt- 
ing, add egg and milk, beaten together; stir and cook 
until creamy, add spaghetti, heat thoroughly, add season- 
ing and serve at once. 

Inexpensive, nourishing, easily prepared. Serve with 
a green salad, rye bread or toast, and a fruit dessert. 



Samp, Bremestead 

Ingredients 

1 }4: cupfuls large hominy or samp 2 level tablespoonfuls fat 
}/2 pound cheese, cut small 2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

1 cupful milk Salt; paprika 

Time: Soaking, 12 hours; cooking, 5 hours, about 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

X1I7ASH samp; soak overnight in cold water. Next 
^^ morning, cook slowly, adding more water as nec- 
essary, until tender — or cock in tireless cooker. When 
done, add salt, and drain off carefully any excess water. 
Melt fat, add flour, mix; add milk, cook, stirring until 
smooth and creamy; add cheese, season with salt and 
paprika, and continue cooking until cheese is melted, and 
the sauce thick and smooth. Serve samp in a large, round 
dish, pour sauce over it, and send at once to the table. 
For variety, samp may be put into a baking-dish, the 
sauce poured over it, and browned in the oven. This is 
a nourishing dish, and a meal in itself; serve with graham 
gems and a fruit dessert. 



i6o FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Rice and Cheese 

Ingredients 

2^ cupfuls cooked rice 2 level tablespoonfuls fat 

1 cupful finely cut American 2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

cheese l^ level teaspoonful salt 

1 cupful milk Few grains paprika 

]4: cupful bread-crumbs 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 15 minutes 
Number served: 4-5 persons 

T TSE left-over cold boiled rice. Melt fat, add flour; 
^^ mix; add milk, cook, stirring until smooth and thick. 
Add cheese, salt, and paprika; stir until cheese melts; 
add rice. Grease a shallow, earthen baking-dish, fill with 
mixture, cover with crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven 
until top is golden brown. Left-over cooked breakfast 
hominy, or boiled samp, may be substituted for the rice. 
This is a delicious and nutritious dish with meat value. 
Serve with coarse bread and a salad, or fruit. 



Spinach Beauregard 

Ingredients 

2 quarts spinach 3 level tablespoonfuls fat 

Butter, pepper, and salt to 3 level tablespoonfuls flour 

season Salt; pepper 

Sliced ham or broiled bacon 3 eggs, hard-cooked 

"i-H cupfuls milk 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 50 minutes 
Number served: 4 persons 

CLEAN spinach thoroughly, cook until tender in a very 
little water; drain, chop fine and season. Melt three 
level tablespoonfuls fat, add flour; mix. Add milk, and 
cook slowly, stirring until sauce is smooth and creamy; 
season. Add whites of eggs, chopped. Dish spinach, 
mounding it in center of a platter; pour sauce around; 
cover spinach with yolks of eggs pressed through a sieve. 
Garnish with broiled bacon or ham. 



YOUR RECIPES i6i 

Creamed Scallops and Shrimps 

Ingredients 

1 pint fresh scallops 4 level tablespoonfuls flour 

14 pound cooked shrimps 1 hard-cooked egg 

1 cupful milk Salt; pepper; onion salt, few 

3 level tablespoonfuls cooking-fat grains 

3^ level tablespoonful chopped parsley 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 20 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

TJUT fat into a saucepan, or use a chafing-dish. When 
-*• melted, add flour; mix; add milk, cook slowly, stirring, 
until smooth, creamy, and quite thick. Now add scallops, 
seasoning, and let cook about ten minutes. As the scallops 
begin to cook the sauce will become much thinner. Now 
add shrimps, chopped white of egg^ and yolk of egg rubbed 
to a paste with a little of the sauce. Cook five minutes 
longer; add parsley, serve piping hot. Pass toast. 



Calcutta Rice 

Ingredients 

% cupfiil rice For Curry Sauce: 

1 level tablespoonful nut butter 1 small onion chopped fine 

1 green pepper, cut small (or 1 2 level tablespoonfuls fat 

pimento) 2 level tablespoonfuls flour 

1 cupful crab-flc.kes (fresh or 1 level teaspoonful curry powder 

canned) 1 cupful milk; salt 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 30 minutes 
Number served: 4 persons 

COOK rice in rapidly boiling, salted water until tender; 
drain. Melt butter, add pepper; cook ten minutes. 
Mix this through the cooked rice. Prepare curry sauce, 
add crab-flakes, heat. Heap rice on a dish; make a hollow 
in center; fill with curried crab-flakes; garnish with parsley. 
Left-over chicken may be substituted for crab-flakes. 

To make sauce: Melt fat, add onion, curry; cook until 
onion is tender; add flour; mix; add milk, and cook, stir- 
ring, until thick and srnooth; add salt, 



i62 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



Eggs Florentine 

ARRANGE thin slices of dry toast on a hot platter. 
• Cover each slice with a generous spoonful of nicely- 
seasoned, hot, carefully cooked spinach. Top each portion 
with a fresh egg^ perfectly poached, and pour a hot cheese 
sauce over the whole. 

To make sauce: Put two level tablespoonfuls vegetable 
fat into a saucepan, add two level tablespoonfuls flour; 
mix; add one cupful milk; cook, stirring, until smooth 
and beginning to thicken. Now add one-half cupful 
American cheese, cut small; continue cooking, and stir- 
ring, until cheese is melted and sauce is thick and smooth. 
Season with salt and pepper. 



Fish Omelet 

TV/TAKE a cheese sauce as directed in Eggs Florentine. 
^■^ Add to this one cupful cooked, fresh fish-flakes. 
Heat carefully. Make a small French omelet; when set, 
place a spoonful of the prepared fish in center, fold, turn 
onto a hot platter; pour remainder of fish around omelet; 
garnish with parsley. Serve at once. Nourishing, good, 
and very quickly made. 

To make omelet: Break three fresh eggs into a bowl, 
add two tablespoonfuls water; beat lightly with a fork — 
just enough to mix whites and yolks. Put a level table- 
spoonful fat into a small omelet-pan; when hot — but not 
brown — turn in the eggs; cook carefully, shaking pan oc- 
casionally, until omelet is set; sprinkle with salt and 
pepper; fold. 



YOUR RECIPES 163 

Salmon Loaf 

Ingredients 

2 cupfuls salmon (1 large can) 1 cupful bread-crumbs, not too 

2 eggs, beaten dry ^ 

1 cupful milk 1 lemon 

Salt; pepper 6 pimento olives 

Tartare sauce 

Time: Preparation, 20 minutes; cooking, 35 minutes 
Number served: 6-8 persons 

REMOVE skin and particles of bone from salmon; 
' separate into flakes; add eggs, milk, crumbs; season 
with salt and pepper. Pour into a buttered mold or bread- 
pan, and steam, on top of stove or in oven, until set. 
Turn onto a hot platter, garnish with thin slices of lemon, 
placing half an olive in the center of each slice; place 
a spoonful of sauce tartare at either end. 



Fish Puffs 

TDAKE large potatoes until soft. When done, cut a 
-*— ^ sJice from top of each, lengthwise; scoop out the 
potato. Season with salt, pepper, butter, and a little hot 
milk. Add an equal quantity of fish-flakes, and one beaten 
egg for each three potatoes. Refill shells; place a slice 
of bacon on top of each; brown in a hot oven. Serve with 
salad, for luncheon or dinner. 



Chicken and Rice Pies 

GREASE individual dishes, cover the bottom of each 
with a layer of boiled rice, add a layer of cooked, 
diced chicken, then a layer of well-made, nicely seasoned 
cream sauce. Now add another layer of rice, chicken, 
and sauce, continuing until dishes are full. Bake in a 
moderate oven until hot and tops are brown. If possible, 
use chicken stock for the sauce. 



i64 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



SOME GOOD VEGETABLES AND SALADS 

The preparation of green vegetables counts for quite as 
much as the cooking. Vegetables to be good must be 
properly ripened, and as fresh from the garden as possible. 
Wilted vegetables, if not stale, may be restored by putting 
them in cold water for an hour or two. All sand and 
decayed matter should be carefully removed before cook- 
ing. A brush for scrubbing saves labor; a small sharp 
knife is essential; special cutters are attractive but not 
necessary. 

Carrots and turnips should be diced, or cut into long, thin 
** strings." Beets are washed, without breaking the skin, 
and four or five inches of the green stem should be left 
on; they may be cut as desired after cooking; when 
tender, the green tops may be cooked in the same way as 
spinach. Cabbage should be shredded, then simmered 
gently for twenty minutes, without a cover. The success 
of spinach depends upon careful washing, and fine chop- 
ping after cooking; beans, on the proper stringing and 
cutting. Peas and com are only good when fresh; peas 
are sweeter if two or three pods are boiled in the water 
with them; corn may have the final inner husk left on; 
both vegetables should be timed carefully, as over-cooking 
is disastrous. 

When cooking all vegetables, preserve color, flavor, and 
valuable nutritive elements as far as possible. When 
practical, baking is desirable. The very watery vegetables 
' — squash, .spinach, beet tops — should be cooked over 
steam, or with very little water. For vegetables that 
must be boiled, do not use more water than is necessary, 
and save this water for soups and sauces; it is valuable. 
Use fresh boiling water only, and continue the boiling 
very gently until the vegetable is tender — no longer. A 
cover is not necessary. As a rule, top-ground vegetables 
should be cooked in salted water; underground vegetables 
should be salted after cooking. 

Salad greens should be thoroughly cleaned and crisped 
in iced water before using. 



YOUR RECIPES 165 

Trench Succotash 

9 ears green corn \i cupful milk, about 

2 quarts new lima beans Salt, pepper, butter for season- 

^ pound dried, chipped beef, ing 

about 

Time: Preparation and cooking, i hour, about 
Number served: 6 persons 

SHELL the beans. Select well-ripened sweet corn; 
score kernels; with back of knife-blade press out pulp 
and juice; place this in refrigerator until ready to use. 
Cook corn-cobs in boiling, salted water — just enough to 
cover — for fifteen minutes. Remove cobs, and use this 
water for cooking beans. When beans are tender, drain 
off some of the water, retaining about one cupful. Add 
com to beans, season; add beef which has been freshened 
by scalding with boiling water. Heat all slowly together. 
An excellent dinner dish, and a complete meal in itself. 
Serve with rye muffins or brown bread. 



Boiled New Squash 

SELECT very small new squash — either white or the 
yellow crook-necks — before the skin or shell has 
hardened. Trim off the stem ends, and cook the squash 
whole in boiling salted water until tender, about thirty 
minutes. When done, drain carefully. Serve on individual 
plates, splitting each squash partly open. Cover with 
cream sauce, add chopped parsley. 



Mushrooms in Cream 

Q ELECT firm, solid field mushrooms. Wash carefully, 
^ under running water, gill side down. Break off the 
sterns, cutting off and discarding the hard ground end 
portion. Slice the stems. The mushrooms themselves 
may be kept whole or sliced. To a half-pound of mush- 
rooms allow one and one-half level tablespoonfuls butter 
substitute. Put this into a saucepan; when melted, add 
mushrooms, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, cover 
closely, and simmer about twenty minutes; add one-third 
cupful thin cream; cook two minutes. Serve at once on 
thin toast, or around an omelet, or with spinacbf 



i66 FOOD AND FREEDOM 
Stewed Cucumbers 

SELECT small ripe cucumbers; pare and cut into halves 
lengthwise. Boil carefully in salted water until tender, 
about twenty minutes. Drain; serve on strips of toast, 
with the following sauce: Put two level tablespoonfuls 
of fat in a saucepan; when melted, add two level table- 
spoonfuls flour; mix, add one cupful water in which 
cucumbers were cooked; stir until thick and smooth, add 
salt, pepper, and juice of half a lemon. These are delicious. 



Stuffed Green Peppers 

"DEMOVE seeds from sweet green peppers; parboil pep- 
■*-^ pers in boiling, salted water ten minutes. Score and 
cut old green corn from the cob; season with pepper, salt, 
a spoonful or two of milk, and a little chicken fat or bacon 
drippings. Cook carefully about five minutes. Fill pep- 
pers with prepared corn, cover tops with bread-crumbs, 
dot with a bit of fat, bake until tender. Serve hot with 
tomato sauce. 



Tomato Cocktail 

SELECT firm, ripe tomatoes. Put them into a wire 
basket and plunge into boiling water for a moment; 
remove the skins. Put aside in the refrigerator until very 
cold. At serving-time, cut into cubes, season with salt 
and pepper, and add enough mayonnaise dressing to 
cover the tomatoes. Serve very cold in tall glasses or 
small glass cups. Sprinkle chopped parsley over top of 
each. 



Grilled Egg-plant 

"pARE an egg-plant; cut into slices one-third of an inch 
-^ thick. Dust with salt and pepper; brush with melted 
fat or olive oil. Broil over a hot fire until brown ; turn slices, 
baste again with butter, and brown. Halved tomatoes 
and raw potatoes, sliced, may be quickly grilled in the 
same way. 



YOUR RECIPES 167 

Asparagus, with Mayonnaise 

Ingredients 

1 bunch asparagus ^ cupful mayonnaise 

Sliced cold ham or tongue 1 tablespoonful whipped cream 

4 eggs, hard cooked 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley 

Time: Preparation, about 35 minutes 

BOIL the asparagus carefully in salted water; drain 
and cool. At serving time arrange it in the center of a 
platter with thin slices of ham or tongue around it. Cut 
the eggs into halves, placing a half on each slice of meat. 
Add the cream to the mayonnaise, which should be 
quite stiff, and pour this over the green ends of the aspara- 
gus; sprinkle the parsley over the top. The whole should 
be served very cold. 

This makes an excellent luncheon or supper dish for 
warm days. Serve with tea-biscuit sandwiches. 



Debutante Salad 

Ingredients 

1 head lettuce 1 cupful diced cooked tongue 

1 bunch cress 1 cupful diced cooked chicken 

1 cupful chopped celery 12 large pitted olives cut in rings 

French dressing Cream mayonnaise 

Time: Preparation, 40 minutes 
Number served: 8 persons 

TWriX celery, tongue, chicken and olives. Season with 
XY± French dressing; let stand in refrigerator until very 
cold. Just before serving add enough cream mayonnaise 
to well cover every particle of salad. Arrange on a bed 
of crisp cress and lettuce. A very dainty luncheon or 
reception salad. 



i68 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Rice Salad 

Ingredients 

2 cupfuls boiled rice Salt; pepper 

3^ cupful diced cooked carrots Few drops onion juice 

or beets French dressing; mayonnaise 

1 green pepper, finely chopped Chopped parsley 

Cocoanut-cheese balls 

Time: Preparation, 35 minutes 
Number served: 4 persons 

USE rice which has been cooked in rapidly boiling water 
until tender — about twenty minutes ; drain very care- 
fully. When cool, add vegetables, seasoning, and enough 
French dressing to moisten the mixture. Heap in the 
center of an attractive dish; cover top with mayonnaise, 
add a sprinkling of parsley; garnish with a circle of the 
cheese balls, and a few leaves of crisp lettuce or cress. 
Serve cool, but not chilled. A good luncheon or dinner 
dish; complete with brown bread and butter, biscuits, or 
muffins, and hot tea or cocoa. 



A Food-Fruit Salad 

Ingredients 

1 small, ripe pineapple, shredded Mayonnaise or pineapple dress- 

1 cupful diced sweet apple ing 

1 ripe banana, sliced Shredded cocoanut or chopped 

1 orange nuts 

}/2 cupful raisins Lettuce 

Time: Preparation, 25 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

T3REPARE the pineapple; add raisins, and the orange, 
-^ carefully peeled, the fine skin removed, and left in 
sections. Let this stand in a cold place until chilled. 
Now add apples, freshly cut, and the banana. Cover with 
dressing; serve on individual plates on a bed of crisp let- 
tuce or other salad greens; sprinkle with shredded cocoa- 
nut. A good dish for luncheon or supper, or an excellent 
combination salad and dessert for dinner. Serve with 
Ihin bread-and-butter sandwiches or small rolls. 



YOUR RECIPES 169 

Calico Salad 

Ingredients 

1 cupful fresh boiled potatoes, 1 cupful new turnips, cooked, 

cut small diced 

1 cupful new carrots, cooked, 1 cupful peas or beans, cooked 
diced 1 head lettuce, or other salad green 

French dressing; mayonnaise; onion juice 

Time: Preparation, 45 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

BOIL potatoes^ drain, and while still warm cut into dice; 
cut carrots and turnips. Add these to the potatoes; 
add peas or beans, mix carefully, and cover with a well- 
made French dressing; add a few drops onion juice. Let 
stand in a cold place several hours. At serving time, ar- 
range crisp lettuce on a dish, heap vegetables in center, 
garnish with small gherkins, or olives, or bits of beet or 
tomato; top with a spoonful of mayonnaise. An excel- 
lent luncheon dish. Serve with bread and butter sand- 
wiches, or fresh biscuit, and tea or hot cocoa. Also a 
good salad to complete a cold meat dish for dinner. 



Stuffed Tomato Relish 

Ingredients 

1 head lettuce or cress 1 small jar {xickled mussels 
6 ripe tomatoes Salt; pepper; onion juice 

2 cupfuls flaked crab meat Mayonnaise dressing 

Time: Preparation, 25 minutes 
Ni/mber served: 6 persons 

SCALD tomatoes, remove skins. Scoop out a portion 
of the centers. Stand tomatoes in refrigerator until 
cold. At serving time, season tomatoes and stuff with the 
crab-flakes through which mayonnaise has been carefully 
mixed. Place tomatoes on a bed of crisp lettuce, garnish 
tops with mayonnaise, two whole mussels, and a little 
chopped parsley. Serve very cold. A refreshing supper 
or light dinner dish ; also a good first course for the company 
dinner. 



I70 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

A Summer Salad 

Ingredients 

1 head lettuce ^ cupful cottage cheese 

2 large ripe tomatoes Chopped olives or gherkins 

French dressing 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes 
Number served: 4 persons 

SCALD tomatoes; remove skins. Cut each tomato into 
halves, crosswise; stand in a refrigerator until very 
cold. At serving time, place a slice of tomato on a bed 
of crisp lettuce, using individual plates. Cover each 
tomato with a spoonful of cheese, sprinkle generously with 
finely chopped olives, and pour over this some French 
dressing. A few chopped nuts may be added if desired. 
Serve with whole-wheat or graham bread. An excellent 
hot weather luncheon or supper dish. When available, 
cream cheese may be substituted for cottage cheese. 



An Autumn Salad 

Ingredients 

6 large red apples H cupful chopped walnuts 

Finely shredded cabbage Mayonnaise or boiled dressing 

Time: Preparation, 30 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

TXT" ASH the apples; dry and polish with a clean cloth. 
^^ Cut a slice from the top of each. Remove core 
and seeds; scoop out the apple without breaking the skin. 
Chop the apple very fine. Mix with it an equal quantity 
of shredded cabbage, the nuts, and enough mayonnaise 
or cooked dressing to well cover every particle of fruit 
and cabbage. Mix thoroughly; refill the apple cups; 
serve on individual plates on a bed of chicory or lettuce 
leaves. Garnish the top of each apple with a spoonful of 
dressing and half a nut meat. Serve very cold. An ex- 
cellent supper salad to serve with cold meat. Pecan or 
hickory nuts may be substituted for the walnuts. 



YOUR RECIPES 171 

Orchard Salad 

"pARE two ripe peaches, two ripe pears, and two sweet 
-^ apples. Cut fruit into thin sHces or small cubes. 
Arrange on a bed of crisp lettuce and cover with cream 
mayonnaise. Serve very cold. 



P 



Orange-Date Salad 

EEL three large oranges; separate in sections, remov- 
ing fine skin. Arrange on a bed of crisp lettuce, lap- 
ping one section over the other so as to form a circle; 
fill center with chopped dates and nuts. Garnish with 
cream cheese; serve with French dressing. Oranges may 
be cut in thin round slices if preferred. 

Bermuda Salad 

CUT new Bermuda onions into very thin, round slices. 
Cover generously with French dressing; sprinkle with 
finely chopped parsley. Sliced radishes, or a chopped 
tomato, or a little cucumber may be added if desired. 



Economy Salad 

TWriX equal quantities finely cut celery and apple; add 
^^ a few chopped nuts and a small quantity cottage 
cheese. Mix carefully through this a well-made French 
dressing. Serve cold on a bed of crisp lettuce or cress. 

Nut-Cheese Balls 

TWriX equal parts of peanut butter and fresh cream 
^^ cheese, or home-made cottage cheese. Add a few 
grains of salt, and moisten with a little thin cream, if 
necessary. Form into small balls. Serve with salad an'^ 
wafers. Shredded cocoanut, or other chopped nuts, may 
be substituted for peanut butter. 

Ideal Salad Dressing 

TWriX together six tablespoonfuls olive oil, juice and 
^^ pulp of one orange, one-fourth level teaspoonful 
salt. A good dressing for plain lettuce, shredded cabbage, 
or fruit. Wholesome for children. 



172 FOOD AND FREEDOM 
Roquefort Dressing 

TWrASH a small quantity of Roquefort cheese and stir 
^^ through a well made French dressing. Serve on 
lettuce hearts. Other cheese may be substituted. 



Russian Dressing 



'T^O one cupful mayonnaise add one tablespoonful, or 
•*- more, of tomato catsup or chilli sauce and several 
olives finely chopped. Serve with lettuce hearts. 



Five-minute Mayonnaise 

TDUT two egg yolks into a small, cold bowl. Add one- 
■^ eighth level teaspoonful salt, few grains of pepper, 
and one-half tablespoonful lemon juice; mix. Now add 
one tablespoonful olive oil, and beat — using a small, 
double, rotary egg-beater. Continue adding oil, a table- 
spoonful at a time, alternating with a drop or two of lemon 
juice until the desired quantity of dressing is made. From 
one-half to a cupful can be made in about five minutes. 



Cream Mayonnaise 



To a quantity of stiff mayonnaise add an equal quan- 
tity — or less — of whipped cream. This dressing 
should be used the day it is made, and kept in the refrigera- 
tor until it is ready to be served. 



Pineapple Dressing 

MIX six tablespoonfuls pineapple juice, three level 
tablespoonfuls granulated sugar, two eggs, beaten, 
one level tablespoonful cornstarch, and one level table- 
spoonful nut butter. Cook over boiling water, stirring con- 
stantly, until smooth and thick. Remove from fire, cool, 
add three-fourths cupful of cream, whipped. Excellent 
for pineapple or other fruit salad when served as a com- 
bination salad and dessert. 



YOUR RECIPES 173 



LIBERTY DESSERTS 
Easily Made — Not Expensive — Wholesome 

Remember to estimate the dessert as part of the 
nourishment of a meal, not as an extra for pleasure 
only. Sugar, fats, wheat flour are precious foods and 
must be used as such, not as luxuries. Cream is a 
most valuable food and one of the most wholesome 
forms in which fat can be taken; in addition, its use 
insures attractive dishes with little labor and no cook- 
ing. It must, however, during our period of milk 
shortage, be used with the utmost judgment and fair- 
ness. 

X2 



174 FOOD AND FREEDOM 





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YOUR RECIPES 17S 



Apple Charlotte 

GREASE a rather shallow tin cake pan; one with a 
tube in the center is best. Cover the bottom with 
a layer of crushed dry bread-crumbs; add a layer of well- 
made, sweetened apple sauce, and dot this with a few bits 
of quince or other preserve. Now add another layer of 
crumbs, then more apple sauce, the bits of preserve, and 
continue until the pan is full. The last layer should be 
of crumbs. Cover top with bits of butter substitute. 
Bake in a moderate oven until a rich brown — about forty 
minutes. When slightly cool, turn out onto an attractive 
dish. Serve warm with cream, or with Custard or Ice- 
cream Sauce* or serve cold without cream or sauce. 



Pears, Delicious 

TDEEL ripe pears; do not cut off the stems. Cut them 
^ into halves. Cook in a rather heavy syrup until very 
tender. A few cloves may be added to pears while cook- 
ing. When done, drain pears, and arrange pieces on thin 
slices of toast. The toast should be cut to fit the pears, 
and each slice dipped into the hot syrup before it is put 
on the plate. Top each portion with a few preserved 
strawberries, bits of quince, or peach, or any other pre- 
served fruit that may be convenient. Add a spoonful of 
whipped cream, if available. What remains of the syrup 
may be poured around the pears on the dish. If cream is 
not available, the pears may be served plain or with a 
Custard Sauce. 



176 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Strawberry Rice 

Ingredients 

14 cupful rice ^ level teaspoonful salt 

3 cupful s milk 1 cupful ripe berries 

For Strawberry Sauce 
1 cupful ripe berries 1 cupful sugar 

3^ cupful water Chipped rind j^ orange 

Time: Preparation and cooking, i hour, about 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

WASH the rice. Put the milk into a double boiler, 
add the rice, salt, and cook until the rice is soft 
and has absorbed all the milk. This will take about one 
hour. Turn into individual cups or a large mold, and when 
cold turn out and serve with Strawberry Sauce. 

To make the sauce: Put the sugar and the water and the 
orange rind into a small saucepan; heat slowly, stirring, 
until sugar is dissolved; boil gently to a heavy syrup, one 
that will spin a thread when dropped from the tip of a 
clean spoon. Remove from the fire, add the berries, which 
have been carefully washed, hulled, and cut into halves. 



Pineapple Tapioca 

Ingredients 

1 small pineapple, shredded and 1 34 cupfuls water 

sweetened M level teaspoonful salt 

}/2 cupful fine tapioca }/z cupful sugar 

Juice of 1 orange 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 45 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

BRING water to boiling-point, add salt, stir in tapioca, 
and cook until thick. Add sugar, pineapple, cover 
and let cook until clear. Add orange juice, pour into in- 
dividual glasses. Serve slightly warm. Pass Ice-cream 
sauce. 

To make sauce: Beat one egg yolk until light, add 
one-fourth cupful confectioners' sugar and one-half cupful 
cream, whipped, but not too stiff. 



YOUR RECIPES 177 

Date-Nut Puddings 

Ingredients 

% cupful soft bread-crumbs % cupful sugar 

}/2 cupful chopped walnuts or 1 level tablespoonful butter sub- 
pecans stitute 

14 cupful dates, chopped H cupful milk 

^ level teaspoonful baking- 1 egg ; pinch of salt 
powder 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 30 minutes 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

MIX dry ingredients; add fat, melted, and milk and 
egg, beaten together. Pour into well-greased gem- 
pans; bake in 9, moderate oven until a golden brown. Serve 
warm with cream, or Lemon Sauce. 

To make sauce: Mix two level tablespoonfuls corn- 
starch, an equal quantity of butter substitute, one-half 
cupful sugar, and one egg. Add two cupfuls boiling water, 
and cook carefully, stirring, until smooth and rather thick. 
Remove from fire, add juice and grated rind of one lemon, 
and a few grains of salt. 



Zuni Peach Pudding 

Ingredients 

1 cupful fine commeal 2 eggs 

1 cupful flour 1 cupful milk 

]/2 level teaspoonful salt K cupful granulated sugar 

4 level teaspoonfuls baking- J^ level teaspoonful ground cin- 

powder namon 

3 level tablespoonfuls melted fat Ripe peaches, peeled and halved 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 35 minutes 
Number served: 6-8 persons 

TWriX meal, flour, salt, baking-powder. Beat eggs until 
^^ light, add milk; add this to dry ingredients; beat 
thoroughly. Add melted fat, mix; pour batter into a 
shallow baking-pan. Lay the halved peaches on top, 
pressing them lightly into the matter; cover with the 
sugar and cinnamon, mixed; dot top with a few bits of 
butter. Bake in a moderately hot oven until peaches 
are soft, and pudding a rich golden brown. Serve warm 
with milk, cream, or peach syrup. 



178 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Thanksgiving Pudding 

Ingredients 

}4 cupful suet, finely chopped 1 ^ cupfuls figs and raisins, 

IH cupfuls flour mixed, cut small 

}/2 level teaspoonful baking-soda 1 level teaspoonful ginger 

3^ level teaspoonful salt 3^ level teaspoonful cinnamon 

H cupful molasses }/i level teaspoonful ground 

^2 cupful milk cloves 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; steaming, 2>^ to 3 hours 
Number served: 4-6 persons 

SIFT soda, salt, spices with flour; add suet, molasses, 
milk; mix well. Add figs and raisins, well floured. 
Turn into a w^ell-greased mold; cover, and steam. Do not 
disturb steamer while pudding is cooking. Serve hot with 
Hard Sauce, made with butter substitute. 



Christmas Pudding 

Ingredients 

1 pound suet, finely chopped H pound citron, shredded 

% pound bread-crumbs, not too H nutmeg, grated 

dry }/^ pound walnuts and almonds, 
1 cupful flour, sifted chopped 

1 pound seeded raisins % cupful grape juice 

^ pound cleaned currants 3^ cupful orange juice 

3<C IKJund figs, finely chopped 5 eggs 

y^ pound candied orange peel, 134 level teaspoonfuls salt 

shredded 

Time: Preparation, i hour; steaming, 8 hours 
Number served: Recipe makes 6 pounds of pudding 

MIX fruit, nuts, citron, flour, add salt, suet, nutmeg, 
crumbs; mix again. Beat eggs, without separating, 
until light; add fruit juice. Pour this over the dry mix- 
ture; mix well until all is moist. Pack in covered greased 
pails or molds; steam eight hours. When done, remove 
covers; when cold, re-cover; put aw^ay until ready to use. 
This keeps indefinitely. Resteam several hours before 
serving. Pass Hard or Foamy Sauce. (Adapted from 
Mrs. Rorer's recipe.) 



YOUR RECIPES 179 

Quick Strawberry Dumpling 

Ingredients 

1 cupful flcur 1 level tablespoonful butter sub- 
}4 level teaspoonful salt stitute 

2 level teaspoonfuls baking- }4 cupful milk, about 

powder Fresh strawberries; sugar 

Time: Preparation, 8 minutes; steaming, 40 minutes 
Number served: 3 persons 

MIX and sift dry ingredients; rub in the butter; moisten 
with just enough milk to make a soft dough. Divide 
dough into two parts; pat out each piece. Lay one piece 
in bottom of greased, small, enameled bowl, spreading 
dough so that bowl is partly lined. Fill center with berries, 
sprinkle with sugar; cover with second piece of dough. 
Place in steamer, cover, steam continuously until done. 
Serve hot with Strawberry Hard Sauce. Other fruits may 
be substituted. 

To make sauce: Cream one-third cupful butter, or nut 
butter, add one cupful confectioners' sugar, and several 
large berries; beat well. 



Banana Charlotte 

Ingredients 

2 large, ripe bananas ^ cupful powdered sugar 

1 tablespoonful orange juice 1 cupful cream, whipped 

12 ladyfingers 

* Time: Preparation, 15 minutes 
Number served: 4 persons 

"DEEL bananas, crush to a pulp; add orange juice and 
-^ sugar. Fold in the whipped cream. Mix lightly. 
Heap in individual glasses, lined with split ladyfingers. 
Garnish with chopped candied pineapple; top with a 
crystallized mint leaf. Easily and quickly made, and nice 
enough for any company dessert, also a good dessert for 
the meal at which no butter has been served. 



i8o FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Maple Cream 

Ingredients 

4 cupfuls thin cream 1 cupful maple syrup 

}/2 teaspoonful maple extract 

Time: Preparation, 8 minutes; freezing, 25 minutes 
Number served: 6 persons 

TWriX syrup and cream; add flavoring; freeze. When 
■*-^-*- frozen, repack freezer and stand aside for an hour 
or two. A soft custard may be substituted for cream. 



Florida Ice 

"pEEL three ripe bananas; crush these to a pulp; add 
-^ juice of two lemons and four oranges. Boil three 
cupfuls water and two cupfuls sugar, and chipped rind of 
one lemon and one orange together for eight minutes. 
Remove from fire, and when cool combine with the fruit 
mixture. Turn into a freezer and freeze. 



Frozen Peaches 

Ingredients 

6 large, ripe peaches (or 8 small 5 peach kernels, crushed 

ones) White of 1 egg 

3 cupfuls water 2 level tablespoonfuls powdered 
2 cupfuls sugar sugar 

Time: Preparation, 20 minutes; freezing, 25 minutes 
Number served: 6-8 persons 

WASH, peel, and crush peaches. Boil water, sugar, 
peach skins, and kernels together for eight minutes. 
Strain; when cold, add crushed peaches; freeze. When 
frozen, add the white of the egg, which has been beaten 
to a stiff meringue, with the powdered sugar added. Re- 
pack, and let stand an hour before serving. An econom- 
ical frozen dessert; utilizes perishable fruit, and requires 
no cream. 



YOUR RECIPES i8i 

A Good Sponge Cake 

Ingredients 

3 eggs H cupful warm water 

1 cupful sugar 1 cupful flour 

M level teaspoonful salt IH level teaspoonfuls baking- 
Juice and rind H lemon powder 

Time: Preparation, lo minutes; baking, 35 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes one large loaf 

SEPARATE eggs; beat yolks until very light; add sugar 
gradually and continue beating. Add salt, lemon, 
water, flour, baking-powder; beat well, pold in the 
stiffly beaten whites. Pour into a round, or narrow, 
oblong tin which has been lightly greased and ^sprinkled 
on the inside with granulated sugar. Bake in a moderate 
oven — 350° F. This also makes a good layer cake. 
(Credit Boston Cooking School.) 



Com Cup Cakes 

Ingredients 

1 cupful commeal H cupful sugar 

% cupful boiling water 1 cupful wheat flour 

^2 level teaspoonful salt 2 eggs 

}4 cupful vegetable shortening, 4 level teaspoonfuls baking- 
scant powder 
% cupful milk, scant 

Time: Preparation, 40 minutes; baking, 25 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 12 cakes 

"pUT meal into a bowl, add salt, shortening, boiling 
•^ water; mix; let stand thirty minutes or longer. Now 
add sugar, egg yolks, baking-powder, milk, flour; beat well; 
fold in carefully stiffly beaten whites. Pour into hot, 
greased gem-pans, and bake in a moderately hot oven. 
Serve fresh. These are delicious for supper with hot 
cocoa and stewed fruit; also good for the school lunch 
basket. 



i82 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Come Again Cake 

Ingredients 

1 cupful granulated sugar 1 level teaspoonful allspice 

H cupful brown sugar 1 level teaspoonful cinnamon 

14, cupful syrup or honey }i level teaspoonful salt 

1 cupful flour; 3 eggs 1 level teaspoonful baking- 
3^ pound cooking chocolate, powder 

grated ^ pound chopped almonds, not 
1 level teaspoonful cloves blanched 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; baking, 45 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes one large loaf 

TDEAT eggs without separating; add sugar, syrup, 
-*— ' chocolate, salt, spices, baking-powder, flour, nuts; 
mix well. Pour into a square, shallow pan lined with 
floured paper. Bake in a moderate oven (340° F.) until 
dry on the surface and a rich brown color. When done, 
and while still warm, cut into strips; then remove from 
pan, pulling off the paper. This should be sticky on the 
inside, with a sugary crust. Good for picnics. 



Liberty Fruit Cake 

Ingredients 

1 level teaspoonful baking-soda 1 level teaspoonful ground cin- 

% level teaspoonful salt namon 

1 tablespoonful warm water 3^ level teaspoonful ground all- 

3^ cupful sour cream spice and ginger, each 

}/2 cupful sour milk IJ^ cupfuls seeded raisins* 

% cupful brown sugar floured 

3/2 cupful molasses 3^ cupful sliced citron and figs, 

\y2 cupfuls rye flour each 

1 cupful white flour, about 

Time: Preparation, 25 minutes; baking, i hour 
Number served: Recipe makes one large loaf 

'pXISSOLVE 3oda in warm water; add salt, sour cream, 
-^-^ milk, molasses, sugar, spices; mix well. Add flour 
gradually, beating until smooth; stir in floured fruit. 
Pour into a greased baking-pan ; bake in a moderate oven. 



YOUR RECIPES 183 

Lace Cookies 

Ingredients 

2 eggs ]/i teaspoonful vanilla 

]4: level teaspoonful salt ^ tablespoonful melted fat 

3^ cupful granulated sugar IM cupfuls rolled oats 

}/2 cupful syrup or honey ^ cupful shredded cocoanut 

Time: Preparation, lo minutes; baking, 20 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 30 cookies 

TDREAK eggs into a bowl; beat well; add salt, sugar, 
^^ syrup, vanilla; beat. Add fat, oats, cocoanut; mix. 
Drop in small teaspoonfuls onto a lightly greased cooky- 
pan; bake in a very moderate oven until a light golden 
brown. When properly baked these are deliciously sticky 
and crisp — a cake, candy, and food "in one." With 
fresh fruit, a good dessert. The fat may be omitted en- 
tirely, if desired. One cupful sugar may be used in place 
of part sugar and part honey. 



Christmas Jumbles 

Ingredients 

]4 cupful butter substitute 2 cupfuls white flour, about 

1 cupful granulated sugar J^ cupful rye flour 

% level teaspoonful salt, about 4 level teaspoonfuls baking- 

Juice and rind of 1 orange powder 

1 egg Shredded cocoanut 

Orange marmalade 

Time: Preparation, 25 minutes; baking, 15 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 35 cookies 

CREAM shortening; add salt, sugar, mix. Add egg, 
beaten without separating, and orange juice and rind; 
beat well. Add baking-powder, and enough flour to make 
a stiff dough. Roll into a thin sheet; cut into fancy shapes; 
brush with beaten white of egg and water; place a little 
orange marmalade in center of each cooky; sprinkle with 
shredded cocoanut. Bake in a moderate oven. Chopped 
walnuts or pecans in.ay be used in place of cocoanut. 



184 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



MISCELLANEOUS DISHES 

Easily Prepared, and Good for Fuel and 
Labor-saving Meals 



YOUR RECIPES 185 

Sardine Canapes 

REMOVE skin and bones from a can of good quality 
sardines. Rub sardines to a paste, season with 
pepper, a few drops of lemon juice, and a few drops of 
Worcestershire sauce. Add half a dozen finely chopped 
pimento olives. Have ready small, thin triangles or rounds 
of bread, toasted on one side. Butter the untoasted side 
lightly, spread generously with the sardine paste. In the 
center of each canape place one whole pimento olive, and 
top with a little white or yolk of hard-cooked egg pressed 
through a sieve. 

Ripe Olive Sandwiches 

'T^O fresh cottage cheese add an equal quantity of chopped 
-^ ripe olives. Moisten with a little cream. Spread be- 
tween thin slices of bread. Cut into fancy shapes. 



Scotch Woodcock 



SPREAD thin slices of hot toast lightly with anchovy 
paste. Cover each slice with a spoonful of scrambled 
egg, sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve at once. 



Horseradish Cream 



IWriX three level tablespoonfuls grated horseradish, one 
■*•'''*• tablespoonful vinegar, one-fourth teaspoonful salt,, 
one-sixth teaspoonful paprika ; add one-half cupful whipped 
cream. Serve with sliced cold beef or tongue. If bottled 
horseradish is used, press dry and omit vinegar. 



Magic Aspic 

SOAK one-half box granulated gelatine in one-half cupful 
cold water. When soft, add two cupfuls boiling water 
in which three bouillon cubes have been dissolved; add 
a few drops onion juice, the juice of half a lemon, and 
strain into a shallow pan. Set in a cold place to harden. 
An excellent spring garnish for cold meat dishes. 



i86 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Marrow Balls 

Ingredients 

4 level tablespoonfuls beef marrow Soft bread-crumbs 
2 eggs Chopped parsley 

Salt; pepper A little grated nutmeg 

Time: Preparation, 15 minutes; cooking, 5 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 12 small balls 

REMOVE marrow from an uncooked beef shin-bone. 
Heat gently until melted; strain; stand aside until 
cold. Beat this to a cream; add eggs, unbeaten, seasoning, 
and parsley; mix. Now add all the soft, stale bread-crumbs 
the mixture will hold. Shape into small balls; let stand 
in a cold place until firm. Serve as a garnish with beef 
or chicken soup. To cook: Drop balls into the hot soup, 
and simmer gently until balls float. This will take about 
five minutes. Marrow is a good fat, and should not be 
wasted these days. Balls may also be used as a garnish 
for spinach. 



Cheese Marguerites 

SPREAD small whole-wheat or graham crackers with 
currant, quince, or any other favorite jelly. Press 
a small, dry cream cheese through a sieve. Place a spoonful 
of this cheese in the center of each wafer. Top with a 
.salted peanut. Serve with salad. Cottage cheese may 
be substituted for cream cheese. 



French Toast 

BEAT two eggs, add one cupful milk, one-fourth tea- 
spoonful salt; mix. Cut stale bread into slices, re- 
moving crusts. Dip into milk and egg, allowing it to 
remain until soft. Saute in nut butter until brown on both 
sides; or toast, in gas oven, and spread with butter. 
Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Serve plain 
or with stewed fruit. 



YOUR RECIPES 187 

Caramelled Bananas 

"DEEL ripe bananas; cut into halves lengthwise. Put 
-^ three level tablespoonfuls nut butter (or other vege- 
table shortening) into a frying-pan; add an equal quantity 
molasses. Heat slowly — there should be enough to well 
cover bottom of pan; lay in bananas. Cook carefully 
until brown on one side; turn, and brown other side. Serve 
warm with poultry, in place of potatoes; or as a dessert. 



Spiced Windfalls 

TTSE well-flavored, juicy, red apples. Wash, cut into 
^^ quarters, remove core, do not peel. Stick a clove or two 
into each piece. Fill a deep, earthen baker with the apples, 
cover with brown sugar through which a little cinnamon 
has been mixed. Add a spoonful or two of water; bake 
in a moderate oven until soft and sticky. Serve warm 
with poultry, or as a luncheon dessert with war bread. 



Caramelled Apples 



TDARE, core and cut large apples crosswise in one-third- 
•^ inch slices; cut each slice in half. Put two level table- 
spoonfuls butter, two of water, and four of brown sugar 
into the chafing-dish. When hot, add apples, cook slowly 
and turn until apples are tender and brown on both sides. 



Candied Cranberries 

TJICK over and wash the berries. Put them into an 
-^ earthen baking-dish. Cover with sugar, allowing 
about one cupful to each three cupfuls of berries. Add 
half a dozen cloves, or more; bake in a moderate oven 
one hour, or until berries are tender and clear-looking. 
Keep the dish covered for the first fifteen rainutes. These 
are delicious, easily prepared, and somewhat resemble 
candied cherries. Excellent with turkey or other poultry. 



i88 FOOD AND FREEDOM 
Prunes and Barley 

SOAK fine pearl barley overnight in cold water. Next 
morning cook until tender, adding water and salt, as 
necessary. Remove from fire, drain off any excess water 
(saving this for soup), and mix with the barley an equal 
quantity of carefully stewed prunes. Sweeten with a little 
brown sugar; let all heat together a few moments. Serve 
warm for breakfast or supper with milk or cream. Excel- 
lent for children. 



Nut-Honey Sandwiches 

'T^O one-half cupful honey add all the finely chopped 
-*" mixed nuts it will hold. Pecans and walnuts are par- 
ticularly good. Spread between thin slices of oatmeal- 
rye bread lightly spread with cream cheese. 



Fig Filling 

Ingredients 

}/2 pound figs 14 cupful water 

j/2 pound seeded raisins Grated rind half a lemon 

34 cupful sugar 1 tablespoonful orange juice 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 20 minutes 
Number served: Recipe makes 2 cupfuls filling 

SCALD figs if necessary. Chop figs and raisins very fine, 
or put them through the meat-grinder. Add sugar, 
water, lemon rind, and cook slowly, stirring until fruit is 
thick and smooth. Remove from fire, add orange juice, 
cool slightly, and it is ready to use. An excellent filling 
for white cake, or for "filled" cookies (cookies put together 
with the filling between and then baked), or for fancy 
sandwiches. 



YOUR RECIPES 189 

Iced Chocolate 

Ingredients 

1 quart water % cupful granulated sugar 

1 quart milk 2 cupfuls whipped cream 

% cupful powdered cocoa 1 teaspoonful vanilla 

Shaved ice 

Time: Preparation and cooking, 20 minutes 
Number served: 10-12 persons 

TWriX cocoa and sugar, add a little of the water, mix to 
"•*' a paste, add remainder of the water. Bring this to 
the boiling-point, boil for three minutes, add the milk 
and bring to the boiling-point again. Remove from the 
fire, cool, add vanilla. Strain into tall glasses half full of 
crushed ice; top each glass with a spoonful of whipped 
cream. This chocolate is simpler to make than ice-cream, 
and quite as enjoyable. Recipe is easily divided. 



Lemonade Syrup 

"pOIL four cupfuls sugar, the chipped yellow rind of 
-*— ' four lemons, with one quart water for ten minutes. 
Cool, strain into a jar or bottle, cover, and keep on hand 
in refrigerator. When lemonade is needed put two table- 
spoonfuls syrup into a tall glass, add the juice of a lemon, 
plenty of shaved ice, and fill with water. Top with a 
slice of lemon or one or two berries. If small glasses are 
used, half a lemon is enough. Orange or other fruit juice 
may be substituted for lemon. Prevents sugar waste. 



Ice Cream Sauce 

"DEAT one egg yolk until light; add one-fourth cupful 
-■— ^ confectioners* sugar, and one-half cupful cream, 
whipped — but not too staff. A delicious sauce, very easily 
made. Good with tapioca puddings, fruit jellies, or sliced 
fresh fruit. With fresh strawberries or sliced bananas, 
or these two fruits combined, it makes a dish that is as 
good as ice-cream, is much less trouble, and requires less 
cream. 
13 



X 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 

Prevent food waste by being ready to can, preserve, 
dry, pickle, salt, or store surplus fruits and vegetables. 
See that everything needed is at hand and ready to use. 
Do not have an empty container in your home as winter 
approaches. — From United States Department of Agri- 
culture. 




F food products are left in their natural 
state, most of them spoil in a few 
hours or a few days, owing to the 
growth on their surface or in their 
tissues of bacteria, molds, or other organisms of 
decay. If such organisms can be killed, and the 
entrance of other organisms prevented, the food 
can be kept in good condition practically indefi- 
nitely. ^ 

There are many methods of preserving sur- 
plus food against future need — canning, drying, 
jelly-making, sweet "preserves,'' salting, smok- 
ing, pickling, also natural storage and refrigera- 

^ Bulletin 839, United States Department of Agricult- 
ure. 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 191 

tion. Of these, canning, drying, and storing are, 
perhaps, the most economical and practical for 
general home needs and common practice; jelly- 
making, and some forms of pickling, are desirable 
at times. The proper curing of meats requires 
special knowledge and skill, and should not be 
attempted without this. Under the present 
food stress, whatever method will best conserve 
possible food waste and produce greatest returns 
for the time and money spent — ^including ma- 
terials, fuel, and containers — should be favored. 
Food not properly preserved, whatever the method 
followed, is wasted rather than conserved. 

Reliable instructions and excellent recipes for 
all usual home methods of preserving food may 
be found in the books and bulletins listed at the 
close of this chapter. The following summary of 
principles and methods used in canning, jelly- 
making, drying, and storing may be helpful, how- 
ever, and serve as a background for the successful 
application of more detailed knowledge. 

CANNING: 

Principles: 

The important point in the canning of foods, 
whatever the method employed, is the destruc- 
tion of all organisms — in any state of develop- 
ment — which may be present on or in the food, 
and to prevent, by means of proper protection, 



192 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

all further contamination. In canning, this 
destruction of organisms is accomplished by 
means of heat, and is known as sterilization. 

Method: 

The cold-pack method is now accepted as the 
easiest, quickest, and surest method of canning 
fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, and soups. It 
is taught by the United States Department of 
Agriculture to canning clubs all over the coun- 
try. It is also the method in use in commercial 
canning factories. The sterilization, completed 
in a single period, is done after the food is 
packed in jars or cans, and partly sealed, so 
that bacteria or spores cannot enter containers 
again after sterilization is completed. The proc- 
ess is the same for all foods, the only variation 
occurring in the preparation of the food previous 
to packing, and in the time required for com- 
plete steriUzation. This cold-pack method in- 
cludes the following steps: 

Assembling equipment; cleaning containers. 

Grading, washing, special preparation of food 
as necessary. 

Blanching in live steam, or boiling water. This 
is similar to parboiling; it varies in time from 
one to possibly fifteen minutes, according to 
quantity handled; it cleanses, removes bitter 
qualities, softens fiber. A cheese-cloth bag or 
wire basket is used for holding the food. 

Quick dipping in very cold water — about fifty 
degrees Fahrenheit; draining. 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 193 

Packing in clean, hot jars; adjusting new rub- 
bers; filling jars at once to overflowing with 
boiling water or syrup; adjusting covers im- 
mediately; partial sealing. 

Placing hot jars at once in canning outfit, and 
surrounding with hot water as required, ac- 
cording to outfit used; covering outfit. 

Sterilizing in water-bath or steam -pressure out- 
fit, as preferred, for such time as may be neces- 
sary. 

Removing jars from outfit, securing lids; invert- 
ing to cool, testing joints, labeling, wrapping, 
storing. 

Equipment for cold-pack canning: 

For sterilizing, either a home-made water-bath out- 
fit, or a commercial water-bath, water-seal or 
pressure-cooker may be used. 

For small-quantity canning, the home-made 
outfit is practical. For this either a wash-boiler, 
large tin pail, or aluminum double roasting-pan 
may be used. It is necessary to place a rack in 
the bottom of the kettle on which to rest the 
jars. The rack used must permit water to 
circulate underneath; wood is best; do not use 
straw or cloths. Lifting-handles and a tight 
cover are essential. The water must surround 
every jar, circulate between the jars, and cover 
tops of jars by at least one inch. Count time after 
water begins to boil or jump over entire surface; 
see that water continues to boil during entire 
sterilizing period. 



194 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

For large-quantity canning, commercial canning 
outfits are most efficient. The water-bath out- 
fits are frequently constructed for out-of-door 
work which can be of great advantage; these 
are operated in the same way as the home-made 
outfits. 

Commercial pressure-cookers save time and fuel, 
and are well adapted for com, meats, and other 
foods where complete sterilization is sometimes 
difficult, and a temperature higher than the 
boiling-point is desirable. When using a press- 
ure-cooker, water must come up to rack or 
platform, but not over it; the cooker must be 
steam-tight, and operated and regulated according 
to directions furnished with the particular canner 
used. 

For containers glass jars are best for home use. 
Rubbers must be new when used, of the best 
quality, and tested before using. Other neces- 
sary equipment 'includes a sharp paring-knife, 
measuring-cup and spoons, a wooden spoon, 
a wire basket or cheese-cloth bag for blanching 
and dipping, clean towels, a ^^ifter" for hot 
jars, a pail for scraps, a good alarm-clock, and 
a stove or heating device. 

Time for complete sterilization depends upon con- 
dition and variety of fruit and vegetables, upon alti- 
tude, and upon the type of canning outfit used. 
Freshly gathered fruit or vegetables require slightly 
less time than those which have been allowed to 
stand several hours. For altitudes above one 
thousand feet, time, as commonly given for steril- 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 195 

ization, should be increased 10 per cent, for each 
five hundred feet. When a water-seal or steam- 
pressure is used, less time is required than when the 
water-bath outfit is used. A time-table is supplied 
with each commercial canner sold. When using 
a home-made water-bath outfit, time as follows : ^ 

Soft berries 12 to 16 minutes 

Peaches 12 to 16 

Apples 16 to 20 

Hard fruits 20 

Com 180 

Peas and lima beans ^ 180 

String beans 120 

Greens 120 

Sweet peppers 90 

Tomatoes 22 

Typical Recipes (See Farmers' Bulletin 839) 

String beans: Grade ; string ; blanch in live steam 
5 to 15 minutes, according to quantity; dip 
into very cold water; drain; pack immediately 
into clean, hot jars; adjust rubbers; fill jars 
to overflowing with boiling water, adding one 
level teaspoonful salt to each quart; seal par- 
tially. Place jars in canning outfit; surround 
with hot water as required for the particular 
outfit used. Sterilize in water-bath outfit one 
period of 120 minutes; or in water-seal outfit, 
90 minutes; or in pressure-cooker — under 5 
pounds — 60 minutes; or in pressure-cooker — ■ 

^ Arranged from Farmers* Bulletin 839, United States 
Department of Agriculture. 

2 If very young and freshly gathered, less time may be 
required. 



196 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

under lo pounds — 40 minutes. When steriliza- 
tion is complete, remove jars at once, tighten 
covers, invert to cool, test, wrap in paper, store. 

Clear boiling water, with one level teaspoon ful 
of salt to each quart, is used for all vegetables 
with the exception of tomatoes; these require no 
water. 

Peaches: Wash, grade, peel,^ halve and remove 
stones, leaving a few for flavor; rinse. Pack 
fruit at once into clean, hot jars; fill jars to over- 
flowing with boiling syrup — thin or medium 
thin; adjust rubbers; seal partially. Place in 
canning outfit, and surround with hot water as 
required for the particular outfit in use. Sterilize 
in water-bath outfit, 16 minutes; or in water-seal 
outfit, 10 minutes; or in steam -pressure outfit 
— under 10 pounds — 5 minutes. Remove jars 
at once, secure lids, invert to cool, test, wrap, 
store. 

Fruit may be canned with clear water, sugar 
syrup, or in cases, with a diluted corn syrup. 
In making sugar syrup, the density may vary 
from thin to medium or thick, according to kind 
of fruit to be canned, special need for economy, 
or individual taste. For sweet fruits — sweet 
berries, peaches, cherries — use thin syrup; for 
sour berries and other sour fruits, use medium- 
thick syrup; for hard fruits — pears, apples, 
quinces — thin to medium-thin syrup may be 
used. 

^ This may be done by immersing fruit in boiling water, 
one or two minutes, until skins "slip easily," then dipping 
into cold water and removing skins. 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 197 

Thin syrup is sugar and water boiled just long 
enough to dissolve all of the sugar; it is not 
sticky. Such syrup has a density of from 12 
to 20 per cent. To make it use about i cupful 
sugar to 5 cupfuls water. 

Medium-thin syrup is that which has begun to 
thicken and becomes sticky when cooled on the 
tip of a spoon; it has a density varying from 
20 to 40 per cent. To make it, use about i cupful 
sugar to 3 cupfuls water. 

Medium-thick syrup is that which has thickened 
enough to roll up over the edge of the spoon 
when it is poured out; its density varies from 
40 to 50 per cent. To make it, use i cupful 
sugar to I cupful water.^ 

Only an expert in canning should attempt meats 
and soups. Instructions may be obtained from the 
United States Department of Agriculture. 

To insure success in all canning, observe the following : 

Use of sound, fresh food only. 

Careful preparation; quick work. 

The complete filling of jars or cans. 

Surgical cleanliness in every detail. 

Complete sterilization. 

Correct timing; an alarm-clock is helpful. 

Perfect sealing. 

1 Farmers' Bulletin 839, United States Department of 
Agriculture, contains a very exact ** syrup table," as well 
as detailed recipes and instructions for the canning of 
fruits, vegetables, meats, soups. The facts as outlined 
have been arranged largely from material published in 
this bulletin. 



198 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Never use artificial preservatives or canning *^ com- 
pounds" or ''powders." These are unnecessary, 
many are harmful, and their use is forbidden or 
restricted in many states and by the national govern- 
ment. 

JELLY-MAKING: 

Principles: 

Jelly is made by combining strained fruit juice 
and sugar in certain correct proportions, de- 
termined by the quality of the fruit juice, and 
boiling this for a definite length of time. Good 
jelly depends upon the care and success with 
which this is accomplished. ''A good jelly 
should be bright, of good color, and clear. 
When removed from the glass and cut, it should 
retain its shape. It should sparkle, and be 
tender enough to quiver without breaking." 

There are two properties that should be present 
in fruit juice in order to make perfect jelly; 
these are pectose or pectin and acid. Pectose or 
pectin is the ''essential jelly-making material"; 
acid is desirable largely for flavor. 

Pectose is an insoluble body present in fruits 
when under-ripe; as fruit ripens, pectose is 
converted into pectin. It is this substance 
which unites with the sugar, during the process 
of jelly-making, and solidifies or "jells" on 
cooling. Pectose unites wnth sugar more 
readily than pectin, therefore fruit that is 
slightly under-ripe makes the better jelly. 
Fruits with little pectin and much acid do 
not make good jelly. 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 199 

Fruits commonly rich in pectose or pectin in- 
clude guavas, quinces, some apples, crab- 
apples, partially ripened grapes, black cur- 
rants, and red currants when not over-ripe. 
There is also pectin in the white portion of 
orange peel, and in green citron melon. Rasp- 
berries, elderberries, even blueberries ^ when 
in good condition, can be made into jelly. 

Fruits lacking in pectin include strawberries, 
peaches, cherries, rhubarb. These are not 
desirable for jelly, unless other fruit juice 
rich in pectin, such as apple, is added to them. 

The best jelly is made from slightly acid fruit 
juice, rich in pectose or pectin, with just the 
right amount of sugar added to unite with 
the pectose or pectin, and consequently ^^jell'' 
properly. If too much sugar is added for 
the pectin present in the juice, the result 
will be syrupy rather than solid, with possi- 
bilities of crystallization; if too little sugar 
is added, the jelly will be tough. Jelly is apt 
to be spoiled, however, by using too much 
rather than too little sugar. The correct pro- 
portion varies, approximately, from ^ to i 
cupful of sugar to each cupful of juice. Ex- 
cept in the case of currant jelly, ^ is usually 
the better measure. 

To prevent waste of sugar and fruit, and to in- 
sure a good jelly, it is sometimes wise to test 
the collected fruit juice for pectin before making 

1 "Principles of Jelly-Making," N.E. Goldthwaite, Ph.D., 
Bulletin, University of Illinois, Urbana, 111. 



200 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

it up into jelly. The United States Department 
of Agriculture gives the following test: 

Put I tablespoonful 95 per cent, grain 
alcohol and an equal quantity of cooled fruit 
juice into a glass tumbler; shake gently; 
let stand for half an hour. The effect of the 
alcohol is to bring the pectin together in a 
jelly-like mass. 

If much pectin is present, it will appear in 
one mass or clot when poured from the glass; 
this indicates that equal quantities of juice 
and sugar may be used — i cupful sugar to i 
cupful juice. 

If pectin is separated in small clots, not slip- 
ping from the glass in one mass, less sugar will 
be required — ^ cupful sugar to i cupful juice. 

If pectin is very thin, and much separated, 
the juice is hardly desirable for jelly-making; 
it may be improved, however, by cooking 
apples, the white portion of orange rind, or 
some green citron melon with it, or adding 
other fruit juice rich in pectose or pectin. 

Correct time for boiling the fruit juice and 
adding the sugar at the proper moment are 
also important factors. Some jelly may be 
made complete in 10 or 15 minutes; other jelly 
may require 20 or 30 minutes. The sugar — 
heated — should be added to the juice midway 
in the process, or a little toward the end — as 
nearly as can be determined. ^ The whole process 

* This point is debatable, however, and is best decidecl 
by individual preference or success, 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 201 

of jelly-making should be done as quickly as 
it consistently can, however; to insure this, 
work in small quantities. Long cooking tends 
to destroy the pectin; the action of the acid 
on the sugar during long cooking is also un- 
favorable, producing in the end a syrup rather 
than a jelly. ^ 

Method: 

Jelly-making incluaes the following steps: 

I. Extracting the juice from the fruit: 

To extract juice from soft, watery fruit — 
currants, raspberries, ripe grapes, etc. — 
place fruit, washed as necessary, in a clean, 
large white-enameled or aluminum kettle; 
heat gently, stirring and mashing as fruit 
softens. To prevent scorching, the addition 
of a very little water is sometimes advised; 
this should not be necessary, however, and 
the juice is better without. A little water is 
sometimes added to grapes, particularly when 
under-ripe. Currant juice is sometimes ex- 
tracted by crushing the fruit without previous 
heating. Fruit juice ^^will flow more readily,'' 
however, when heated, and the heating or 
cooking, up to a certain point, apparently de- 
velops the pectin.^ 

^ Bulletin 853, United States Department of Agricult- 
ure. Also, "Principles of Jelly- Making/' N. E. Gold- 
thwaite, Ph.D., Bulletin, University of Illinois, Urbana, 111. 

2 Bulletin 853, United States Departmen tof Agricult- 
ure. Also "Principles of Jelly-making," N. E. Gold- 
thwaite, Ph.D., Bulletin, University of Illinois, Urbana, 111. 



202 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

To extract juice from hard fruits — ^apples, 
quinces, etc. — place prepared fruit in a kettle, 
and barely cover with water — allowing, ap- 
proximately, from I to 2 cupfuls of water to 
each pound of fruit, according to kind and 
condition. 

Interesting jellies, both in color and flavor, 
may be made by variously combining different 
fruit juices, adding spices, or the leaves of 
different plants — such as mint, sweet gera- 
nium, cherry. 

2. Straining and measuring the juice; testing for 
pectin, if desirable; measuring sugar; placing 
sugar in pan ready for heating. 

3. Boiling juice previous to addition of sugar: 

This is done to clarify juice, evaporate unnec- 
essary water, and to reduce time of cooking 
after sugar is added. 

4. Adding sugar to boiled fruit juice: 

Sugar should be hot when added, so as not to 
check the boiling and unnecessarily lengthen 
the cooking process. 

5. Testing for "jelly'': 

This is the critical point in jelly-making, and 
is best understood and mastered through ex- 
perience; it may occur any moment after 
sugar is added, and should be anticipated, 
as over-cooking is disastrous. Syrup boiled 
beyond the '' jellying '^-point becomes thin 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 203 

and ^^ syrupy/' Syrup that refuses to ^^jeir* 
cannot be improved by long cooking or the 
addition of more sugar; it can sometimes 
be improved by the addition of more good 
fruit juice. 

To test for jelly, examine syrup as it cools on 
the spoon used for stirring; if syrup clings to 
the spoon and forms a sheet, remove jelly at 
once from fire.^ 

A thermometer may also be used for testing, 
but since the temperature at which the 
*' jellying "-point occurs varies in different 
fruits, or according to the condition of the 
fruit juice, the thermometer test is not nec- 
essarily infallible; good syrup usually ^^ jells" 
approximately between 220° and 224° Fah- 
renheit.^ 

6. Filling glasses: 

When jelly is ready, pour immediately into 
hot sterilized glasses. Let cool rapidly in a 
clean, dry place, protecting jelly with a light 
cheese-cloth. 

7. Sealing: 

When cold, cover jelly with hot, melted paraf- 
fin. Tin or paper covers may be used for 
extra protection. Labeling is attractive and 
prevents confusion. 

^See "Principles of Jelly-Making," N. E. Goldthwaite, 
Ph.D., Bulletin, University of Illinois, Urbana, 111. 

Also, Farmers' Bulletin 853, United States Department 
of Agriculture. 



204 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Equipment for jelly-making includes: 

A small stove or heating device, clean towels 
and paper; sharp paring-knives, pail for scraps, 
white-enameled or aluminum kettle, measuring- 
cups, scales, wooden spoons, bag or cheese-cloth 
for straining jelly, clock for timing, thermometer 
or syrup-gauge, jelly-glasses or parafhn-paper 
cups, paraffin, covers, labels. 

To insure success in jelly-making: 

Use fresh, sound fruit, not over-ripe, rich in 
pectin and slightly acid. 

Measure correctly; proportion sugar to juice 
properly. 

Work quickly. 

Do not over-cook syrup. 

Pour jelly, when ready, immediately into steril- 
ized glasses. 

Seal as soon as cold and set; keep in a clean, dry, 
light place. 

JAMS, FRUIT BUTTERS, MARMALADES: 

These should be specially considered during the 
present food shortage. They are more economical 
than jelly as all of the fruit is used, fruit otherwise 
good but not desirable for jelly can be used, and 
less sugar is required. While the process is similar 
to that of jelly -making, it is less exacting, and there 
is little opportunity for waste or error. 



> 
> 

> 

> 
r 
> 
o 

M 
JO 

w 
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PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 205 

The fruit is cooked with just enough water to soften 
it — soft fruits and berries require no water — the 
whole rubbed through a colander or press, meas- 
ured, sugar added — in any proportion from one- 
third to one cupful of sugar to each cupful of fruit 
pulp — -and the whole cooked until rather clear and 
thick, and then poured into jars or glasses, and 
sealed when cold. 

Interesting and economical products can be made 
by combining two or more fruits. Certain vegetable 
marmalades are also practical, and can be made at 
small cost.i 

DRYING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES: 

Principles: 

Drying or "dehydrating" is the process of ex- 
tracting the water — present in large propor- 
tions — from fruits and vegetables. When treated 
in this way, they can be kept almost indefinitely. 

Before cooking, the water must be restored by 
soaking, or the food "reconstituted," as it were. 

Drying very greatly reduces weight and bulk; 
the cost of packing and shipping — if necessary — 
is consequently small, and little storage room 
is required. Moreover, the method is inexpen- 
sive, and requires comparatively little skill, al- 
though care and judgment must be used. 
Quantities of food which may be too small to 
can conveniently — a small surplus from the 

^ Leaflet NR-27, United States Department of Agricult- 
ure, contains excellent recipes for vegetable marmalades. 
14 



206 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

. garden or market-stand, or left-over bits from 
the kitchen — may be saved in this way. For 
purposes of transportation or for the city home, 
which may have Httle or no provision for stor- 
ing fresh or even canned food, the advantages 
are particularly apparent. 

Method: 

Three methods are practical. Sometimes a 
combination of two, or even three, is used. 
Food to be dried may be placed on open rack 
trays in the sun, or exposed to artificial heat, 
or dried by air-blast; in the home this may 
be created by a natural draught of air, or by 
artificial means such as an electric fan. 

Either home-made or commercial driers may 
be used. Food should be carefully cleaned be- 
fore drying, and protected from dust and insects 
while drying. Cutting or shredding saves time. 
The time required varies; the process should be 
slow enough so that the cut surfaces are not 
hard and dry before the inside is sufficiently 
dry; at the same time, the drying should not 
be so slow that souring may result. The tem- 
perature is important when artificial heat is 
used. A very gentle heat is best at first, possibly 
70° Fahrenheit; this should be gradually in- 
creased as moisture escapes to 140° Fahrenheit. 
The circulation of air through and over the food 
is as important as heat. Food should be tossed 
and turned frequently while drying. 

When properly dried and *^ conditioned,'' the 
food should be packed in small, air - tight 














f- 




a home-made drying outfit that is practical and 
inexpensive; on warm, bright days a fire is 
not necessary 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 207 

paper bags, boxes, or paraffin-paper cartons. 
Not more than enough food for one or two meals 
should be packed in each container. 

Equipment: 

Equipment for home-drying is fully described 
and illustrated in Farmers' Bulletin 841, pub- 
lished by the United States Department of 
Agriculture. 

The home-made outfit illustrated opposite page 
206 is novel, practical, inexpensive, and most 
efficient for comparatively large quantities for 
household use. 

'* Community drying," in a special house or 
plant built for the purpose of drying fruits and 
vegetables, has been adopted in some states. 
This ^^drying-house'* may be rented as needed. 

^^ Itinerant drying" is also receiving attention. 

Foods suitable for drying include apples, peaches, 
cherries, plums, some berries, beans, cabbage, 
celery, corn, onions, parsley, parsnips, potatoes, 
pumpkins, squash, turnips — and others. 

STORING: 

Many fruits and vegetables may be kept by natural 
storage in a dry place of the proper temperature, 
either indoors in the cellar, sometimes in a ''vege- 
table-attic," or out of doors in properly prepared 
pits or trenches. Foods suitable for natural storage 
include, principally, apples, pears, potatoes, and 



2o8 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

the common winter vegetables such as beets, cab- 
bage, carrots, onions, turnips, etc. 

For the country home with a garden, winter vege- 
tables suitable for storing should be planned for 
and grown to the extent of family needs for winter 
use. Natural storage is simpler and cheaper than 
either canning or drying, and should be favored 
whenever practical. 

REFERENCES: 

The facts as outlined in the preceding chapter have 
been arranged largely from material published by 
the United States Department of Agriculture; full 
credit is given. For more detailed information, and 
further practical help, the following publications 
are earnestly recommended: 



u 



Home Canning by the One Period Cold - Pack 
Method," Farmers' Bulletin 839. 

''Home Canning of Fruits and Vegetables,'' Farmers' 
Bulletin 853. 

'^ Home-made Frui^ Butters," Farmers' Bulletin 900. 

'^ Preservation of Vegetables by Fermentation and 
Salting," Farmers' Bulletin 881. 

"Drying Fruits and Vegetables in the Home," Farm- 
ers' Bulletin 841. 

''Home Storage of Vegetables," Farmers' Bulletin 879. 

''A Successful Community Drying Plant," Farmers' 
Bulletin 916. 

Note. — These bulletins may be obtained free of cost, or 
for a nominal sum, by addressing the Division of 
Publications, Government Printing Office, United 
States Department of Agriculture, Washington, 
D. C. 



PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 209 

'Principles of Jelly-Making," N. E. Goldthwaite, 
Ph.D., Bulletin, University of Illinois, Urbana, 111. 
Successful Canning and Preserving^ Ola Powell. 

Note. — A most comprehensive and complete volume, 
particularly practical and inspiring because of its 
one hundred and sixty-four illustrations, and the 
questionnaire and bibliography at the close of 
each chapter. To those really interested in the 
successful preserving of food — whether by can- 
ning, jelly-making, pickling, or drying — such a 
volume is invaluable. 

*'Ten Lessons on Food Conservation," Bulletin, United 
States Food Administration. 

Recipes and excellent suggestions for preserves, 
jellies, pickling may be found in: 

The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, Fannie Merritt 

Farmer. 
A New Book of Cookery, Fannie Merritt Farmer. 
Canning, Preserving, Jelly-Making, Janet M. Hill. 
Cooking for Tivo, Janet M. Hill. 
Canning and Preserving, Marion Harris Neil. 



XI 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 

Probably the greatest aid which can be rendered the 
woman of the future as a housekeeper will be furnished 
by the American domestic architect. Whether man or 
woman, the builder of American homes in the future will 
make a very special study of the convenience and comfort 
of women in relation to their household problems. — The 
Craftsman Magazine, 

INCE the sane and sound theory that 
household service is really a source of 
national wealth has been growing, and 
since women are now realizing the 
money value of their own time and strength, at 
the same time electing to do housework them- 
selves rather than submit to the wearing effect 
of the old order of irregular and unskilled help 
— with its attendant waste — the attractive, well- 
planned kitchen has at last been recognised as a 
necessity. In fact, a housekeeping workshop 
built and equipped so as to conserve to the utmost 
the housekeeper's energy and time, guaranteeing 
worth-while, happy accomplishment, is in constant 




A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 211 

demand. Even where professional service can be 
employed by the hour, and the housekeeper her- 
self relieved of the greater portion of the work, 
fitting kitchen conditions are an important ele- 
ment in the successful development and definite 
establishment of this progressive and reasonable 
means of getting the housework done. Architects, 
builders, and manufacturers of household equip- 
ment are co-operating to meet this new kitchen 
need, and have already succeeded in accomplish- 
ing much. 

An ever-present cleanliness easily maintained, 
compact convenience, based on fundamental at- 
tractiveness, are the new standards, while the 
principal features of a desirable kitchen might 
be summed up as follows : 

Favorable location in relation to exposure. 
Convenient location in relation to house as a 
whole. 

Pleasant outlook. 
Proper ventilation. 

Good lighting, both natural and artificial. 
Light-colored, easily cleaned, durable surfaces. 
Compact floor plan and arrangement of equip- 
ment, facilitating the natural order of work. 
A convenient and normal place for everything, 
and everything in its place. 
Equipment set at a comfortable working height, 
with working surfaces uniform in height. 
Elimination of all unnecessary floor space, 
angles, corners, surfaces, equipment, utensils; 



212 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

A rest-corner or alcove. 

Attractiveness, both in the effect of the whole 

as well as in individual equipment. 

Money may be an important factor in securing 
certain ideal conditions, and is usually the de- 
termining one when selecting materials and equip- 
ment, and yet a good kitchen is not necessarily a 
costly one. Intelligent, careful planning counts 
for quite as much as the money which can be 
spent; in addition, the market is now not only 
supplied with every conceivable type of satis- 
factory labor-saving material and device, but is 
also more or less prepared to offer a choice in 
style, quality, and size to meet every need and 
every purse. We have but to ask or look, and 
what we need, or want, or can afford to pay for 
can almost always be found. 

While the best location for a kitchen is largely 
controlled by climate and local conditions, one 
with windows toward the north, northeast, or 
northwest is usually the most perfect. The light 
is favorable for working, and there will be sun- 
shine enough during the year, at the extremes 
of the day, to bring cheer and refreshment, with- 
out excessive heat in the summer months. Doors 
and windows should be so arranged that good 
lighting, and cross-currents of air insuring perfect 
ventilation are secured without loss of adequate 
wall space. In this connection, the high casement 




RW.H 




he DmmA Alcove 



THE WINDOW, A WHITE-ENAMELED TABLE THAT NEEDS NO 
CLOTH, AND THE SHELVES FOR GAY PEASANT POTTERY MAKE 
THIS BREAKFAST ALCOVE A DELIGHT 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 215 

window may have advantages. If possible, guard 
against a passage through the kitchen which 
would cut it in half, interrupting compact work- 
ing conditions. Plumbing should be simple, ex- 
posed, and the best that can be afforded is always 
the cheapest in the end. Where electricity is 
available, clever wall and floor plugging for elec- 
tric apparatus can be immensely valuable. Arti- 
ficial lighting should be carefully thought out. 

Kitchen convenience in relation to the life of 
the' home as a whole must also be definitely con- 
sidered. While it is wise to make special pro- 
vision for laundry, cleaning, and other work not 
directly connected with the preparation of meals, 
these interests should not be too far from the 
kitchen. Where the family is large and one pair 
of hands must do all the work, direct communica- 
tion between kitchen and dining-room, both by 
door and pass-window — the latter, in connection 
with shelving for china, located near the sink — 
is a great step-saver. Under more favorable 
conditions, a small entry or pantry, setting the 
kitchen a little apart, may have desirable feat- 
ures. In the country home, the convenient re- 
lation of kitchen to both dining-room and eating 
porch ought not to be overlooked, so that sea- 
sonable adjustments can easily be made. A 
dining-alcove will add a note of quaint, happy 
charm, and can be most useful. 



2i6 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The food-pantry, with an outside window, 
should be located on the coolest, yet somewhat 
protected, comer or side of the kitchen. It should 
not be too far from the dining-room.. If this 
pantry can, at the same time, be at that end of 
the kitchen where the work-table and sink are 
also located, conditions are ideal. Where ex- 
posure and general convenience must be consid- 
ered, however, this is not always possible, and 
a compromise must frequently be made. This is 
true in other planning, too, when single con- 
venience must sometimes be sacrificed for the 
greater convenience of the whole. Moreover, in 
planning do not let us forget that beauty as an 
intimate part of convenience deserves considera- 
tion, too. That which is harmonious and cheering 
in effect can rest the nerves and prevent fatigue 
in quite as definite a way as any step-saving floor 
plan or labor-saving device. It is wise, further, 
to remember that living requirements are not 
alike in all families, nor is kitchen-work neces- 
sarily the same from day to day, and, just to this 
extent, with even the most approved suggestions 
to follow, individual adaptations must be made 
and the real efficiency come from the heart of the 
worker. 

Unless one can afford porcelain tiling, a good 
quality washable paint, on hard plaster — or on 
metal tiling — in deep ivory, light buff, or a soft, 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 217 



cheerful gray is the best wall finish, with enameled 
trim in the same color or in a rich cream- white. 
This finish is not extravagant and may be re- 
painted when neces- 
sary at a reasonable 
price. While light 
painted and enameled 
surfaces may *'show 
the dirt," they are 
easily cleaned, and 
there is always the in- 
centive to "keep them 
clean" because of the 
buoyant satisfaction 
that follows the ef- 
fort. Surely the rest- 
ful, inspiring joyous- 
ness created in the 
spirit by white enamel 
paint cannot be 
ignored. All wood- 
work, doors, and 
shelves and any built- 
in equipment should be smooth and free from 
grooves, crevices, and corners where dust and 
dirt may collect. The new kitchen doors that 
meet this requirement are variously known as 
sanitary, flush, or slab. The possibilities of metal 
trim and construction are receiving attention. 




THE NEW FLUSH OR SANI- 
TARY" door; the glass push- 
plate SAVES CLEANING AND A 
WINDOW PREVENTS ACCIDENTS 



2i8 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

Door and dresser knobs may be of white por- 
celain or glass. 

A good quality linoletim, or floor oil-cloth, at- 
tractive in color and pattern — to harmonize with 
whatever picture scheme one has in mind — 
properly laid, stretched, fitted, and cemented to 
the floor, is still considered the most sanitary, 
practical, and comfortable floor at the price. To 
preserve it, and to make the cleaning easy, lino- 
leum should be rubbed, when laid, with a good 
floor wax, and the waxing renewed, as necessary, 
after the floor has been thoroughly washed. A 
thin coating of shellac can also be used with good 
results, and if it is renewed three or four times 
a year, even an inexpensive oil-cloth will wear 
without a blemish for several years. 

Composition and tile floors are ideally sanitary 
and indefinitely permanent, but comparatively 
expensive as well as cold and tiring to stand on. 
A cork -compound flooring — ^made in a variety 
of desirable colors, and laid in attractive block- 
title designs — combines the good points of both 
linoleum and tile; it will cost more than the 
linoleum, however, but less than the tile. A 
sanitary cove base of tile or composition ma- 
terial is worth some sacrifice in other direc- 
tions. Such a base prevents corner accumula- 
tions, simplifies the cleaning of the entire floor, 
and is a partial insurance, at least, against 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 219 



mice and insect troubles. If 
tries and cupboards, and any 
ing to the cellar, are treated 
and finished as part of the 
kitchen floor, an atmos- 
phere of finished harmony pre- 
vails. 

Against some such back- 
ground as this, add your gaily 
colored pottery cups and plates 
— in neat, single rows on an 
open, white-enameled, narrow- 
shelved dresser — and short , 
crisp, white, cross-barred 
ruffles across the window-tops, 
and there can be no grimy 
side to kitchen work. Not 
unless we ourselves may choose 
to make it so. Even the stair- 
way leading to a basement 
laundry can be painted a 
clean, hard, battle-ship gray, 
and open on a picture that 
rivals a little piece of stage 
fairy-land, if we but will to 
have it so. And loving it 
and wanting it is almost the 
most that it need cost us. 
I^t us want it, that is all ! 



the fioors of pan- 
stair landing lead- 



ir— 




vTECTION 
Kiichen.Dreiser 



CROSS - SECTION OF 
DRESSER SHOWING 
LOWER SHELVES 
EACH TWO INCHES 
NARROWER THAN 
THE ONE ABOVE, 
PERMITTING CUPS 
AND PITCHERS TO BE 
HUNG TO ADVAN- 
TAGE. THE "in- 
cline" SHELF, IN 
THE LOWER PART, IS 
WORTH NOTING — 
ALSO THE SPACE BE- 
TWEEN WALL AND 
SHELVING 



220 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

When planning a new kitchen, the size will 
depend largely on: 

Its relation to the house as a whole. 
The size of the family. 
The uses to which it must be put. 
The amount of wall space left for large equip- 
ment, after the necessary doors and windows 
have been provided. 
Individual preference. 

In remodeling an old kitchen, the best, of course, 
must be made of conditions as they exist. 

Neither the very large nor the very small 
kitchen can be recommended. In the large 
kitchen too much walking is required, and there 
is too much surface to be kept clean. In a kitchen 
that is too small, overcrowding can cause equal 
inconvenience. An oblong rather than a square 
floor plan usually suggests the best arrangement 
for easy working conditions, although the square 
kitchen is always happy-looking, and offers a 
generous corner as a compact working base. Eight 
feet by II feet is a good size for a kitchenette; 
ID feet by 12 feet, or ii feet by 13 feet, or 12 
feet by 12 feet, or 11 feet by 14 feet are good 
sizes for a family kitchen. It is the layout of this 
floor plan, however, that is so important, as it 
is the compact, logical arrangement of the work- 
ing equipment, rather than the actual niunber of 
square feet as measured, that really controls the 



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A KITCHEN FLOOR PLAN THAT SHOWS COMPACT ARRANGE- 
MENT OF WORK-TABLE, SINK AND STOVE, A BREAKFAST 
ALCOVE, AN OPEN, NARROW-SHELVED DRESSER IN CON- 
VENIENT RELATION TO DINING-ROOM, EATING PORCH 
AND LIVING-ROOM, AND A FOOD-PANTRY NEAR BOTH 
DINING-ROOM AND PORCH 
15 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 223 

number of steps to be taken. Even a very large 
kitchen may be made convenient and comfort- 
able by confining the working equipment to one 
end or corner, and dividing off the remaining 
portion to be used as a breakfast alcove or rest- 
comer. 

Every working unit should be so placed that 
the common household tasks which are done 
over and over again — not only every day, but 
many times every day — can proceed in the fol- 
lowing normal, logical order: 

The income of food. 

Its storage in refrigerator or pantry. 

The preparation of food. 

Cooking. 

Serving. 

Dish-washing. 

Replacing of dishes on shelves or in cupboard. 

Disposal of waste. 

Cleaning up of the kitchen. 

If this sequence can progress, as far as possible, 
from left to right, the instinctive method of doing 
all things, with no or very little recrossing of the 
room, and that by the shortest way, much time 
and fatigue usually connected with the prep- 
aration of meals can be saved. 

In the wisely planned kitchen, for example, 
one will find: 



224 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

The food-pantry with refrigerator near the 
outside entrance. 

The work-table or cabinet with utensils, sink, 
and stove closely grouped, forming a complete 
unit for the preparation of food, cooking, and 
washing of utensils and dishes. 

Shelves for dishes near the sink, preferably to 
the left, and in the direct path to dining-room 
or eating porch. 

A wheel-tray, with a permanent nook near both 
sink and stove, for carrying cooked food to the 
table, and soiled dishes back to the kitchen sink. 

A small, white-enameled refuse-can — with a 
cover operated by a foot-pedal — near or under 
the sink. 

A small closet, close by, for kitchen-cleaning 
materials. 

Proper facilities for storage of food and uten- 
sils, the work-table, sink, and stove constitute 
the fixed equipment, and their individual con- 
sideration is as important as their relation to 
one another. This fixed or large equipment should 
be selected and arranged for service, and economy 
of operation and maintenance, and should har- 
monize in finish, color, and outline as far as may 
be practical with the kitchen plan as a whole. 
In general, plan or select equipment that is fitted 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 225 

to the size and needs of the family, that does not 
occupy unnecessary floor space, and has no com- 
plicated or superfluous parts to get out of order. 
Perhaps the most satisfactory way to make a 
selection of any needed piece of large equipment 
that must be purchased is to apply for descriptive 
catalogues, with price-lists, from manufacturers 
of reliable articles in which one is interested. 
From these circulars a careful, comparative study 
of sizes, cost, principles of operation, and other prac- 
tical details can be made before coming to a con- 
clusion. Many dealers gladly permit a trial test 
before the purchase is made; where this can be 
arranged, it offers additional insurance for future 
satisfaction. 

Kitchen food-storage space must include suit- 
able provision for both perishable and dry foods 
in current use, as well as a special shelf or small 
closet, set a little apart, for extra stock or 
emergency foods. If possible, combine these 
needs in one large pantry — 7 feet by 6 feet 
is a fair average size — ^with a window, so that 
all food-storage interests are confined to the 
one center. The walls and shelves of this pantry 
should be finished in a hard, smooth, white- 
enamel paint, so that wiping and cleaning are 
always easy. Shelf papers or oil-cloths are un- 
sanitary, and, with painted shelves, unnecessary. 
The shelves should be spaced, as far as practical, 



226 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

to fit the articles to be stored, and should be 
narrow rather than wide — varying in width, 
approximately, from 6 to 12 inches — so that 
all articles may be placed in single rows only. 
This plan automatically prevents disorder. One 
wider shelf will be needed for bread- and cake- 
boxes; a cutting-board and knife, conveniently 
placed, may complete this shelf. Shehang should, 
further, be so arranged that articles most fre- 
quently needed are most easily reached. Shelv- 
ing that is too high or too low is never practical; 
S feet 6 inches is a good limit for the highest 
shelf, and 15 inches from the floor for the low- 
est shelf. Comers of shelves should be rounded, 
and the shelves fitted a scant one-third of an inch 
from the wall; this prevents dust accimiulation 
and makes cleaning easy. 

Covered glass jars are attractive and practical 
for dry groceries. For perishable foods, a re- 
frigerator is usually a necessity. The chief 
points of a desirable refrigerator include easily 
cleaned, sanitary surfaces, particularly on the 
inside, a construction that will maintain a low 
temperature at a minimimi ice consimiption, with 
perfect circulation of air currents, and an ice 
chamber that is easily filled. A well-fitting drain- 
pipe for carrying off the water is essential. The 
location of the refrigerator in relation to con- 
venient icing should not b^ overlooked. Refrig- 




/"Windoo; over 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 229 

eration without ice is not yet possible for all, but 
it is coming. 

Food preparation is the next step. This re- 
quires food materials, utensils, water, and a prac- 
tical non-absorbent, sanitary surface, installed at 
a comfortable working level. Both kitchen floor 
space and waste effort will be saved if the usual 
work-table or cabinet and the constantly needed 
sink, with its two drain-boards, can be combined 
so as to form one compact working base or unit, 
the whole — with a deep-silled casement window 
to light it — within easy reach or stepping distance 
of the stove. The ideal arrangement is to have 
the table-top and left-hand drain-board form one 
continuous working surface, with the water fau- 
cets of the sink within instant reach of the right 
hand, and the sink itself immediately available 
for such work as vegetable cleaning and the wash- 
ing of used utensils. A fair average height for 
this combination table and drain-board level will 
vary from 33 to 36 inches. This height will 
bring the inside bottom of the sink approxi- 
mately from 26 to 30 inches from the floor. 
In the case of a very tall worker, it may be 
necessary to raise this level an inch or two. 
It is difficult to make arbitrary statements, 
however ; whatever height will permit the worker 
to stand without bending the back, or being other- 
wise uncomfortable, is correct. 



230 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

A porcelain or white-enameled sink with in- 
tegral back and nickeled faucets is desirable. In 
sinks of this kind there are sizes and qualities 
and styles to meet every need. Where space will 
not permit of two drain-boards, the one that can 
be provided should be placed at the left. Wood 
drain-boards, while not as sanitary as the new 
enameled boards, afford the best working surface. 
The top of the table may be of zinc, nickeloid, 
white-enameled steel, or a vitrified glass. The 
white glass is perfect in appearance, but cold 
and hard to work on, and may crack if suddenly 
heated. Zinc is durable and inexpensive, but 
hardly attractive. Where wear is not severe, 
white enamel paint is sometimes a happy com- 
promise. Add to this a permanent white-glass 
pastry-board, placed at one end, and you have 
an excellent table. To preserve the enameled 
surface, it may be waxed occasionally. 

Cleverly grouped in and around this unit, ac- 
cording to individual need and preference, should 
be found all the smaller utensils and a reasonable 
supply of such dry foods as may be in constant 
use. The food may be kept in white-porcelain 
jars placed in a row across the back of the table- 
top, or on a narrow, white-enameled shelf immedi- 
ately over the table. Utensils may be hung on 
hooks, or arranged on suitable shelving at the 
side or ui^der the table, as may best fit space ^n4 



>--^ 

w 



>o* 



l-l tM H 
^ ^ X 




A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 233 

preference. In this way, an illogical assortment 
of food and utensils, which is neither helpful nor 
attractive, is avoided. 

The choice of a stove will depend largely upon 
the most economical, available fuel. Whatever 
means or method of cooking will best conserve 
the fuel-supply of the country, at the same time 
providing the greatest possible cooking conveni- 
ence for the home, should be considered. There 
are few localities where either an oil-, a gas-, or 
an electric-stove may not be used, and house- 
keepers who have signed the emancipation proc- 
lamation prefer any one of these to a coal-stove. 
Sometimes the use of more than one stove is the 
wisest solution for the cooking problem. For 
•example, an oil- or a gas-stove may be operated 
in conjunction with electric table devices, result- 
ing in the very greatest cooking comfort. What- 
ever the special needs may be, there are fuels 
and stoves and combination possibilities to meet 
them all. 

For kitchen refuse, any one of a number of 
white-enameled, sanitary containers, with lids 
operated by means of a foot-pedal, solve this 
part of the food problem. A unique garbage-box 
of paper, to be completely destroyed at the end 
of the day, is a recent innovation. The gas- 
incinerator and other practical refuse-destroyers 
suggest the trend of ultimate disposition where 



234 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

this is not cared for by local municipal au- 
thority. 

The small equipment consists of such utensils 
as are required for the preparation of food, dish- 
washing, and care of the kitchen. While many 
good lists of the small equipment of a kitchen 
have been made, there is no list complete or 
perfect for all conditions. Tools must satisfy 
not only the particular requirements of the house- 
hold in which they are to be used, but the in- 
dividuality of the one who is to use them. Uten- 
sils should number as few as possible, and be as 
good in quality and as light in weight as is con- 
sistent with the purpose for which they are in- 
tended. 

Before purchasing any utensil always ask: Do 
I need this particular tool ? While nothing should 
be lacking to make kitchen-wcck go easily, quick- 
ly, and well, yet every tool or utensil that one 
can do without is just one less to find a place for 
and keep clean. Although a utensil may be pur- 
chased specifically to save labor, every article 
brought into the kitchen, in itself, increases 
labor. Before buying any tool, therefore, let 
us be very sure that it will serve us more than 
it will work us. 

Having concluded that it is needed, check it 
next for its value : 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 235 

Is it fitted for the work required? 

In size. 

Material. ^ 

Shape. 

Construction. 

Will it save labor as claimed? 

Is it a good investment? 

As to first cost. 

As to wearing qualities. 

As to maintenance cost. 

As to time and energy it will save. 

As to the pleasure it may give. 

The properly selected tool will be neither too 
large nor too small for its purpose; it will be 
sound in construction, with no complicated parts 
to get out of order or require unnecessary care; 
the material will be the most desirable for the 
use to which the tool is to be put, and will not 
in any way injuriously afiEect the food with which 
it comes in contact; it will not be awkward to 
handle; it will give one pleasure to look at it; 
it will bring a just return in labor saved or other 
profit for the investment, and the price will be 
fair for the quality offered. 

The sanitary, well-arranged kitchen will re- 
quire very little special cleaning, other than that 
covered by the normal, e very-day care. Where 



236 



FOOD AND FREEDOM 



sanitary conditions exist, whatever cleaning is 
necessary can be accomplished with very little 
effort. If, in fact, the kitchen is that ideal place 
about which we have been dreaming and for which, 
too, many of us have been working, then cleaning 
up in the kitchen really resolves itself into — well 
— almost fun! 




LET US MAKE OF OUR HOMES A PLACE WHERE THE 
FAIRIES SHALL LOVE TO COME AND DANCE AMONG 
THE PITCHERS AND THE TEA-POTS 



A KITCHEN THAT WILL HELP YOU 237 

REFERENCES: 

For further practical details and helpful suggestions 
in planning and equipping a labor-saving kitchen, see: 

** Planning the Home Kitchen/' Helen. Binkerd Young, 
Cornell Reading Course, Cornell University, 
Ithaca, N. Y. 

"Planning and Equipping the Kitchen,'' Home Eco- 
nomics Bulletin, Iowa State College, Ames, Iowa. 

The New Housekeepings Christine Frederick. 

The Efficient Kitchen , Georgie Boynton Child. 

*'The Farm Kitchen as a Work Shop," iVnna Barrows, 
Farmers' Bulletin 607, United States Department 
of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 

*^ Household Engineering, Good Housekeeping Insti- 
tute," Good Housekeeping Magazine^ 119 West 
Fortieth Street, New York, N. Y. 

Journal of Home Economics , American Home Econom- 
ics Association, Baltimore, Md. 

Note. — In addition to the valuable food and home- 
making articles, this publication contains, from 
time to time, interesting and practical articles on 
kitchen arrangement and equipment. 

See, also. References listed at close of Chapter III. 
16 



y 



XII 

JUST THOUGHTS 

AVING food for the country is not al- 
ways saving money for the home, and 
there are moments when it takes the 
finest courage and the sanest judgment 
to strike a wise balance between 
the two. 

Both in arranging the menus, in Chapter VI, 
and in selecting the recipes given in Cjiapter 
IX, it was not always easy — although the effort 
was made — to consider, equally, the food needs 
of the world, the easiest and most attractive 
way in housekeeping, and what might be best 
from a purely dietetic or health standpoint. 
In cases, it is sometimes necessary to sacrifice 
one ideal for another. Just which must stand 
and which must go can only be definitely decided 
by the individual housekeeper according to the 
most urgent need of the moment. 



The Food Administration has made the! follow- 
ing general ''war-time" ruling in reference to 
cooking, and recipes approved by the administra- 



JUST THOUGHTS 239 

tion must conform to this standard during our 
period of emergency : 

To use no butter in cooking, but to substitute 
drippings, vegetable oils, nut butters, or "but- 
ter substitutes/' 

To use small amounts of fat only in cooking, 
and not to fry in deep fat. 

To use all pork products sparingly. 

To use cream sparingly. 

To use sugar sparingly, substituting honey 
or syrup when practical. 

Not to use toast as a garnish, or to serve 
foods on toast. 

To use wheat substitutes — other flours and 
cereals — for part of the wheat flour normally 
used, and to use all wheat products sparingly. 

While these rulings may change as the food 
needs of the world change, it would be well if 
some of these restrictions were more consistently 
observed at all times than they have been. Fried 
foods, pastry, except on rare occasions, and 
all dishes containing large quantities of sugar 
and fat are extravagant and seldom wholesome ; 
a variety of flours and cereals is always best, 
while pork, from a purely hygienic stand- 
point, should be used with discretion. 



240 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



In selecting the recipes in Chapter IX, as a 
matter of principle and as far as practical 
these rulings have been observed. It may 
be necessary, however, to adapt the recipes 
to the changing food needs of the world as 
these develop, and it is urged that, at all times, 
they should be used with judgment and checked 
with current requests of the Food Adminis- 
tration. It will be necessary to watch care- 
fully, very probably, the kind of flours most 
dasirable to use, and the quantities of sugar 
and fat available; the use of cream is fre- 
quently a matter that can only be determined 
by local supply. 



JUST THOUGHTS 



241 



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242 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

HOW TO FIND THE CALORIE VALUE 
OF A RECIPE 

The calorie value of a recipe may be very 
simply and approximately estimated as follows: 

1. Determine number of calories in one 
pound, or other given quantity, of each 
ingredient called for in the recipe.^ 

2. Determine number of calories in that por- 
tion of each ingredient represented in the 
recipe, and add these figures. 

Example: 

Cup Custard 

Ingredients 

I quart milk >^ cupful sugar 

5 eggs Salt; flavoring 

1. I pint of milk. . . = 325 calories 

I egg = 75 calories 

I pound of sugar = 1,860 calories 

2. I quart milk. . = 2 x 325 calories = 650 calories 

5 eggs = 5 X 75 calories = 375 calories 

}4 cupful sugar = >^ x 1,860 calories = 465 calories 
(Salt and flavor do not count.) 

Total = 1 ,490 calories 

1,490 = calorie value of recipe. 

Divided into six equal portions, each portion would con- 
tain, approximately, 250 calories. 

^ See' " American Food Materials," Bulletin 28, Unite! 
States Department of Agriculture. 

Also, Rose, Feeding the Family^ Appendix, specifically 
pp. 349-354' 



JUST THOUGHTS 243 



With a little practice one can learn very quickly 
just how many calories are represented in one 
egg J one tablespoonful sugar, one cupful flour, 
etc., and it will not be necessary to refer to 
a book or table each time the fuel or calorie 
value of a recipe is to be determined. 

By further analyzing the ingredients it is pos- 
sible to estimate how many of the total number 
of calories are carbohydrate calories, how many 
are fat calories, and how many are protein 
calories. Those interested will find clear di- 
rections in A Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics, 
by Mary Swartz Rose. 

For tables giving "100 Calorie Portions" of 
our usual or common foods, see Fisher and 
Fisk, How to Live, pages 170-190; also, Rose, 
Feeding the Family y Appendix. 



244 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

ABOUT THE COST OF MILK 

'* In deciding whether any food is high or low 
in price, we must ask not merely how much 
we must pay for a pound or a quart, but how 
great is the return in actual food value. . . . 
In buying milk at 12 cents a quart one gets 
protein as cheaply as in meat at 25 cents a pound, 
or eggs at 35 cents a dozen, or fresh cod at 20 
cents a pound; and one gets energy more 
cheaply than from any of these other materials. 
Even at 18 cents, a quart of milk would be 
almost as cheap a source of protein and a cheap- 
er source of energy than meat at 35 cents a 
pound, it would be a cheaper source of both 
protein and energy than eggs at 60 cents a dozen. 
Because of these fa^ts dietitians advise families 
who must make every penny count to cut down 
on their meat before they do on their milk.'' 
— Lafayette B. Mendel. 

*^ Doctor Mendel does not wish to be under- 
stood as saying that milk is the cheapest source 
of energy. Cereal foods such as wheat, com, 
oats, and rice hold that distinction. But they 
lack lime and other nutritious substances which 
milk contains. ^Milk and cereals together,' 
says Doctor Mendel, ^make a remarkable com- 
bination; ^^ bread -and -milk" is justified not 
only by experience, but by theory.'" — United 
States Food Administration. 



JUST THOUGHTS 245 

LABOR-SAVING DEVICES VERSUS 
'^ HIRED HELP'' 

"The labor-saving devices in America are aids 
to a new domesticity which will gradually do 
away with the servant question as it exists/' 
— Mrs. Havelock Ellis. 

"The amount of time required for housework 
is affected to a considerable degree by the tools 
with which the work is done; in other words, 
by the extent to which labor-saving devices 
are used." — John B. Leeds, M.A. 

A fair annual budget allowance for household 
service, as estimated for an average family with 
an income of $3,000 is $130, in addition to the 
time and labor given to household work by 
the housekeeper.^ The following chart sug- 
gests how this $130 might be spent in securing 
help by means of labor-saving devices rather 
than through ''hired help." 

^ Cf. Ellen H. Richards, The Cost of Living. 
Also, Benjamin R. Andrews, Ph.D., A Survey of Your 
Household Finances. 

Also, John B. Leeds, M.A. , The Household BtidgeL 



246 



FOOD AND FREEDOM 





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JUST THOUGHTS 247 

HOT WEATHER COOKING SUGGESTIONS 

Not the Least of the Summer Problems Is the 
Overheated Kitchen 

WHAT YOU CAN DO TO KEEP YOUR KITCHEN COOL 

Work before 9 a.m. and after 9 p.m. 

Cook out of doors or on the porch. 

Do the canning and preserving out of doors. 

Use ready-to-eat and quickly prepared foods. 

Use a fireless cooker or fireless-oven range. 

Use a chafing-dish at the table. 

Adopt the electric breakfast. 

Go out to dinner with a picnic basket. 

Serve sandwich suppers on the porch. 

Make frozen desserts instead of baked puddings. 

Use an electric fan in the kitchen. 

Do no cooking on Sundays and holidays. 

A definite stun of money for kitchen conveni- 
ence and the saving of labor should be a legiti- 
mate part of the outlay belonging to any 
vacation which includes housekeeping. 

KITCHEN SCHEDULE FOR THE WARM MONTHS 

As living requirements and working conditions 
differ in every home, no very definite, practical 
schedule can be arranged that might be carried 
out in all cases. The following outline may 
offer some suggestions, however, for simplify- 
ing the hot -weather cooking, and keeping a cool 
and attractive kitchen. 



248 FOOD AND FREEDOM 



BEFORE 9 A.M. 

General preparation, as far as possible, of all food 
required for the day: 

Meat and vegetables: These, each sepa- 
rately or combined as a stew or braised dish, 
may be prepared and put into fireless cooker 
or oven of automatic range. 

Salad: Greens can be cleaned and put into 
a cheese-cloth bag or wire basket on ice; 
salad dressing may be made and put away. 

Bread, rolls, cake: These may be baked, if 
needed; small pans, rolls, and cookies save 
oven heat. 

Desserts: Fruit may be cleaned, or fruit 
cocktails prepared and placed in refrigerator. 
Custard may be made, or syrup prepared for 
a frozen dish. Mousse, for the dinner des- 
sert, may be prepared and packed away in 
the fireless cooker. 

Other preparation: Syrup may be made for 
cold drinks and put in refrigerator. Sand- 
wiches may be made for lunch or supper, tied 
in a damp cloth, and put in refrigerator. A 
picnic lunch may be packed. 

Leave the kitchen in order for the day. 



JUST THOUGHTS 249 

AFTER 9 P.M. 

Plan meals for next day: 

Cereal for breakfast may be prepared and 
put in fireless cooker; or, 

Vegetables to be used next day for a vegetable 
salad, or cream soup, may be cooked over- 
night in fireless cooker; or, 

Beans for soup or stew, which have been 
soaking all day, may be cooked overnight 
in fireless cooker; or, 

Meat to be used as '*cold meat'^ may be 
cooked overnight in fireless cooker; or. 

Fruits for '^ stewed fruit'' may be cooked 
overnight in fireless cooker; or. 

Bread or rolls may be mixed in bread-mixer, 
to be ready for early baking. 

Leave kitchen in order for next day. 



250 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

WHAT A CENT'S WORTH OF ELECTRICITY 
WILL DO FOR YOU 

ESTIMATED APPROXIMATELY WITH CURRENT AT FIVE 
CENTS PER KILOWATT-HOUR 

It will operate a 12 -inch fan for 4 hours. 

It will bring to a boil 2 quarts of water. 

It will make from 4 to 7 cups of coffee in a per- 
colator. 

It will bake a pan of biscuit, or cook a steak, 
on a ''table-stove.'' 

It will make a Welsh rarebit in a chafing-dish. 

It will operate a table toaster for 25 minutes. 

It will operate an electric griddle for 20 minutes. 

It will operate an 8-inch saute pan for 20 
minutes. 

It will warm the baby's milk in a milk- warmer 
for 6 feedings. 

It will keep a 6 -pound flat-iron hot for 20 
minutes. 

It will run the sewing-machine, or help with 
the washing, dish-washing, cleaning, ice-cream 
freezing, or other work for 3 hours. 



JUST THOUGHTS 251 

PUT YOUR KITCHEN ON A WAR 
FOOTING 

. Determine type of meals fitted to needs of 
your family, and, in general, amount of 
food required. See that each class of food 
is represented, with good cooking, attrac- 
tive service, and some ^^ flavor'' or ^' color" 
to give relish. 

. Calculate cost of food in relation to market 
prices, nourishment obtained, digestibility, 
and time for preparation. Learn how to sub- 
stitute one food for another; fruit in place 
of a green vegetable; bread in place of pota- 
toes; cheese in place of meat, etc. 

. Serve as much variety as possible ; not neces- 
sarily at one meal, bu% in the course of a day 
or week. In this way — and excepting definite 
over- or under-feeding — the proper balance 
of the needed elements will be more or less 
automatically supplied. Approximately, this 
averages: protein, 12 per cent.; fat, 18 per 
cent.; carbohydrate, 68 per cent.; mineral mat- 
ter, 2 per cent, 

. Simplify menus and service. Few dishes at 
one meal, and varied meals — with enough in 
quantity to make up for lack in variety — is 
a good rule; ^'picnics" save work and give 
pleasure; ^^combination'' dishes are helpful 
and cheap. 



252 FOOD AND FREEDOM 

5. Do not serve more than is needed or will be 
eaten; do not throw food away; do not be 
ashamed to be careful. 

6. Plan meals in advance; do your own market- 
ing; accept only reliable packaged foods; 
try new foods; pay cash. 



KEEP UP TO DATE 

Remember that valuable food and household 
information may always be obtained through 
the State Agricultural Colleges, or through the 
Office of Information, or the Office of Home 
Economics, the United States Department of 
Agriculture, Washington, D. C, or from the 
United States Food Administration. Watch for 
new bulletins as they may be announced. Spe- 
cialists of recognized authority prepare these bul- 
letins, and the informaation they contain is free 
for the asking, or for a very nominal sum only. 
Special bulletins containing series of lessons for 
clubs and neighborhood work are also available. 



THE END 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





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